Im looking at fitting a Tim temp gauge to my 300 Disco.I would like to run it along side the original landy one.Is there some kind of T piece I could put both senders in or will I have to put it in one of the radiator hoses.Any info or links would be a great help.
Fitting Temp Guage to 300tdi
- Thread starter MPfive
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Dr_evil
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shocker
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It would be a good idea to introduce yourself before loads of the regulars jump down your neck.....just a word to the wise mate , but welcome to the club .
You might want to think about putting the temp sensor somewhere else so you have two gauges telling you two things rather than one . Anyway , do a search or two cos its been discussed and their are several opinions and bits of advice .
You might want to think about putting the temp sensor somewhere else so you have two gauges telling you two things rather than one . Anyway , do a search or two cos its been discussed and their are several opinions and bits of advice .
wiltshire landyman
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one sensor per guage its the only way to get the best reading
Paulmitchell1984
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one before, and one after the radiator in my mind..welcome
wiltshire landyman
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and the point of that being?
the.oak
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hehe made me chuckle.....
hi, just fitting a second aux temp gauge to my 300 and an using redundant temp sender tapping in the center of the head (it was for the egr control)
The one I already have fitted is fitted in the bottom hose
where you fit the sender depends what your trying to achieve???
the one I'm fitting in the head is for engine temp (one in the dash is way too damped and by the time it moves from norm the engine is on it way to destruction)
the one I fitted in the bottom hose is looking at the temp of the water coming out of the rad after its been cooled and on its way back into the engine. this normally stays quite cool if it does get too hot there is only one outcome. The engine is going to overheat but hopefully you should have enough warning to pull over or ease off the throttle for a bit!!
The one I already have fitted is fitted in the bottom hose
where you fit the sender depends what your trying to achieve???
the one I'm fitting in the head is for engine temp (one in the dash is way too damped and by the time it moves from norm the engine is on it way to destruction)
the one I fitted in the bottom hose is looking at the temp of the water coming out of the rad after its been cooled and on its way back into the engine. this normally stays quite cool if it does get too hot there is only one outcome. The engine is going to overheat but hopefully you should have enough warning to pull over or ease off the throttle for a bit!!
only running two after I boiled the engine twice in a row, ended up being rad partially blocked internally, anyhow paranoia set in
The one in the bottom hose does work quite well but it doesnt tell you engine temp, only the temp of the water (cooled by the rad) returning into the engine therefore if water is not being cooled enough by rad (externally full of mud/snow/sh1t or covered by bullbar/ whatever) and its returning too hot the engine has only one option that is to overheat.
used electric gauge and fitted sender by cutting bottom hose and putting aluminium adaptor in, loads on fleabay. I'll measure it next day or so and take some pics if I get a chance.
other gauge is really just to replace poxy LR one in dash as it seems so heavily damped that both times the engine overheated it didnt move from normal until it was steaming in a layby
if you fit a new electric gauge they mostly seem to come with a sender with an 1/8npt thread which will fit directly into the original temp sender tapping or get an adapter to use the tapping for the egr temp sender (cos you will have stopped using the egr) its a bit of a fiddle getting an adaptor because its 1/8npt female to 12x1.5 male and must be short/stubby to work properly.
The one in the bottom hose does work quite well but it doesnt tell you engine temp, only the temp of the water (cooled by the rad) returning into the engine therefore if water is not being cooled enough by rad (externally full of mud/snow/sh1t or covered by bullbar/ whatever) and its returning too hot the engine has only one option that is to overheat.
used electric gauge and fitted sender by cutting bottom hose and putting aluminium adaptor in, loads on fleabay. I'll measure it next day or so and take some pics if I get a chance.
other gauge is really just to replace poxy LR one in dash as it seems so heavily damped that both times the engine overheated it didnt move from normal until it was steaming in a layby
if you fit a new electric gauge they mostly seem to come with a sender with an 1/8npt thread which will fit directly into the original temp sender tapping or get an adapter to use the tapping for the egr temp sender (cos you will have stopped using the egr
) its a bit of a fiddle getting an adaptor because its 1/8npt female to 12x1.5 male and must be short/stubby to work properly.
jamesmartin
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if you feel rad every now and then and check level by removing bung you wont get a problem
jamesmartin
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mostly do ,its has been biggest problem ive found with them 300 isnt prone to overheat unless weak bit like rad ,it fills and empties on same side 200 diagonally and never suffered
shocker
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Hmmm....JM , would a diagonal run rad like a 200 be a sensible idea for a vehicle thats used for towing and has a/c , hence prone to heating and not getting all the cooling it could ?
in reality think you would be better spending your hard earned cash on a new radiator instead of gauges.
you can get heavy duty rad with an extra row of tubes in the core but havent come across one fitted so not sure how good they are.
If you have a full width intercooler you can also get a wider radiator that fills the gap where the intercooler used to be (but only seen them for big bucks and on top of the intercooler price)
you can get heavy duty rad with an extra row of tubes in the core but havent come across one fitted so not sure how good they are.
If you have a full width intercooler you can also get a wider radiator that fills the gap where the intercooler used to be (but only seen them for big bucks and on top of the intercooler price)
