Fitting a cigarette lighter/12 volt power supply

Hello,

I'm completely new to this, just bought my first Land Rover yesterday, it's a Series 3 1972 model.
Sorry if this question has been asked before, but I'd like to fit a cigarette lighter/12 volt power supply to it so I can run a sat nav of it. I was wondering if anyone has any tips for doing this?

Cheers,
Nathan

NathChapman said:

Hello,

Cheers
Nathan

Click to expand...

Your welcome

I personally used these:

WATERPROOF 12V ACCESSORY (CIGAR) SOCKET "MARINE GRADE" on eBay (end time 20-Jan-11 15:41:47 GMT)

as my local electrics shop had them in and they were cheap.

What may well be the best option is to run a cable from the battery into a small fuse box then on say a 15A fuse run out to one or two of these. You then have spare direct power for any other accessories you want.

Alternatively, if you take your dash off you could put a wire onto the 12V inspection lamp sockets and run a wire from this to one or two 12v sockets.

It's really easy to do - just make sure you get the polarity the right way round!

Any problems just post up - and expect some **** taking - its usual - but you'll nearly always get help too!

Several ways of doing this - you can come straight off the battery (put a fuse in circuit) using a large round terminal and some 10 or 20 amp wire with the appropriate fuse.
You could take an ignition switched feed off the back of the fusebox (one of the fuse holders is usually spare)
You could tap into the auxiliary feed off the back of the sockets in the dashboard (add a fuse)
Bring the earth back to a suitable point - the steering column mount would be good.

Having looked at the state of the wiring in my Series - I plan to do a complete re-wire, enclosing it all in galvanised conduit and armoured flexible conduit (did the same with my canal boat engine)

Again, the same as the canal boat, I plan on fitting one of these Standard Blade Automotive fuse boxes but I'd make sure it had a common bar!

Probably overkill for what you want it for, I'd just use an inline blade fuse holder or something like that if thats all you plan to add.

TheKeymeister said:

Having looked at the state of the wiring in my Series - I plan to do a complete re-wire, enclosing it all in galvanised conduit and armoured flexible conduit (did the same with my canal boat engine)

Again, the same as the canal boat, I plan on fitting one of these Standard Blade Automotive fuse boxes but I'd make sure it had a common bar!

Probably overkill for what you want it for, I'd just use an inline blade fuse holder or something like that if thats all you plan to add.

Click to expand...

Galv will cause chaffing-use flexi plastic it's ample

Bump said:

I personally used these:

WATERPROOF 12V ACCESSORY (CIGAR) SOCKET "MARINE GRADE" on eBay (end time 20-Jan-11 15:41:47 GMT)

Click to expand...

They look pretty good option. I'm gonna get myself some of them now , cheers bump.


I don't see the point of re-routing lots of cable and a few hours of work. Seems pointless. Most sensitive devices have a fuse or current limiting resistor in the cigarette lighter plug.

the simplest option for you is to link it into the tester plugs on the instrument panel. If you want, you can put a in-line blade fuse for extra safety.

hope this helps.

in landys any brown wire is a battery live,white ignition live

jamesmartin said:

in landys any brown wire is a battery live,white ignition live

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Not strictly true - most series have botched wiring.

For example mine works like this:

Black = indicators
Blue = starting related
Yellow = sensors of any kind
Red = anything else (lights, power, etc.)

Works for me. confuses the hell out of anyone else