Filling your orifices with ep90

Decided to spend an afternoon changing oil in gear box etc.

Probably been recommended before but I treated myself to a hilka oil suction gun, made filling much easier and slightly less messy, 10 quid in screwfix or slightly cheaper on amazon if you've got prime for the free delivery.

Now my second favourite tool (favourite tool is the little telescopic rod with magnet on the end for retrieving dropped nuts etc, in fact I like these so much I've got 2, the second is for retrieving the first telescopic rod when I drop it)

CohPC said:

Decided to spend an afternoon changing oil in gear box etc.

Probably been recommended before but I treated myself to a hilka oil suction gun, made filling much easier and slightly less messy, 10 quid in screwfix or slightly cheaper on amazon if you've got prime for the free delivery.

Now my second favorite tool (favourite tool is the little telescopic rod with magnet on the end for retrieving dropped nuts etc, in fact I like these so much I've got 2, the second is for retrieving the first telescopic rod when I drop it)

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I have two of these but I have found that they do not last very long and quickly it becomes annoying as oil bypasses the piston seal, especially atf and then drips out of the breather hole on the back. i also have a drill powered oil pump which also has the same issue in that it didn't last very long until the seal became too loos and did not act as a pump. Despite all claiming to be oil rated nothing I have used so far has lasted more than a couple of uses before beginning to leak. it doesn't stop me using them it just makes more mess and is irritating.

dag019 said:

I have two of these but I have found that they do not last very long and quickly it becomes annoying as oil bypasses the piston seal, especially atf and then drips out of the breather hole on the back. i also have a drill powered oil pump which also has the same issue in that it didn't last very long until the seal became too loos and did not act as a pump. Despite all claiming to be oil rated nothing I have used so far has lasted more than a couple of uses before beginning to leak. it doesn't stop me using them it just makes more mess and is irritating.

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There's probably not a non messy way of doing it, so if they last a few uses your only adding a couple of quid per service

I have found that warming the new oil up helps with filling.

I had a 20 litre bucket of 80w/90 that I stood in front of an electric radiator for a few hours before filling using a syringe type fluid transfer gun.

Warm oil is thinner which makes it flow a lot easier.

CohPC said:

Decided to spend an afternoon changing oil in gear box etc.

Probably been recommended before but I treated myself to a hilka oil suction gun, made filling much easier and slightly less messy, 10 quid in screwfix or slightly cheaper on amazon if you've got prime for the free delivery.

Now my second favourite tool (favourite tool is the little telescopic rod with magnet on the end for retrieving dropped nuts etc, in fact I like these so much I've got 2, the second is for retrieving the first telescopic rod when I drop it)

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Are you using.the right ep90?

Col

CohPC said:

There's probably not a non messy way of doing it, so if they last a few uses your only adding a couple of quid per service

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I have an old style gear oil bottle with a plastic tube on the lid for top ups.

For changes, I have a similar bottle, with a plastic hose pushed over the spout, and the bottom cut off, so it is effectively a funnel with a 4 foot flexible tube attached to the bottom.
An assistant sits in the vehicle, with the centre panel removed, and I lie underneath, with the end of the tube in the filler hole.
The assistant just pours gear oil direct from a 5 litre container into the funnel, until I see oil begin to emerge from the hole.
I pull the tube out, finger over it, and insert the filler plug with the other hand. Then on to the transfer box.
Communication between the operator doing the pouring, and the operator under the vehicle, is key to not getting loads of oil all over the place.

As @Webley1991 comments, temperature is a factor in how long this will take.
I can't be bothered to mess around with heaters, so I just do the changes on a hot summer day.

Colthebrummie said:

Are you using.the right ep90?

Col

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Yes, I did consider shoving some cooking oil in there but that's just as expensive

CohPC said:

Yes, I did consider shoving some cooking oil in there but that's just as expensive

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Just as long as you know there are two different types of ep90. Although some say it makes no difference.

Col

I

Colthebrummie said:

Just as long as you know there are two different types of ep90. Although some say it makes no difference.

Col

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I did see that gl4 or gl5, used 4

CohPC said:

I

I did see that gl4 or gl5, used 4

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It's like the antifreeze types as well, chances are it won't make much of a difference but why take a chance as the cost isn't much different

CohPC said:

I

I did see that gl4 or gl5, used 4

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I suspect he means Hypoid, or EP.

Turboman said:

I suspect he means Hypoid, or EP.

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theres ep90-gl4 and ep90-gl5, i used the ep90 gl4

CohPC said:

theres ep90-gl4 and ep90-gl5, i used the ep90 gl4

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That will be fine. You can also get 90 weight Hypoid gear oil.
Gl is a fairly recent thing, I think Gl5 is for modern vehicles, but probably wasted on an old Series.
Likewise multigrade gear oils.

I thought the wrong gl grade was bad for the phophabronze bearings in the gear box.

Col

Oilsafe for pumping the oil, not cheap but bloody excellent and mine is at least 15 years old

Colthebrummie said:

I thought the wrong gl grade was bad for the phophabronze bearings in the gear box.

Col

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Yes, GL5 will ruin yellow metals. GL3 was correct but NLA and replaced by GL4

Good to have all the knowledge available on here, gives me assurance I'm doing the right things. Next job will be to give it a good service before the summer when it will get more use (only doing a couple of hundred miles a month mainly short journeys at the moment) I'll be asking which points it needs as there's 3 different types but no where telling you how to identify them (probably doesn't need new points/plugs etc but be good to be able to put the old working ones under the seat just in case of breakdown)

CohPC said:

I'll be asking which points it needs

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Need to replace them with one of these (along with a couple of other small changes)


Then the whole thing will be greatly improved. It will stop refusing to start/run rough when it is a little damp out, make much more noise and satisfying Black smoke out the back, and generally be much much better than anything that requires points and plugs

CohPC said:

Good to have all the knowledge available on here, gives me assurance I'm doing the right things. Next job will be to give it a good service before the summer when it will get more use (only doing a couple of hundred miles a month mainly short journeys at the moment) I'll be asking which points it needs as there's 3 different types but no where telling you how to identify them (probably doesn't need new points/plugs etc but be good to be able to put the old working ones under the seat just in case of breakdown)

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Been running gl5 in my series boxes/diffs for a decade or so, not blown up yet!
Basically so long as it roughly the right viscocity it will work.

Guy on the s2 forum stuck some gl4 and 5 into two jars and stuck some yellow gbox bits in them, after a long time he could see no difference in the jars.

dag019 said:

Need to replace them with one of these (along with a couple of other small changes)
View attachment 280845

Then the whole thing will be greatly improved. It will stop refusing to start/run rough when it is a little damp out, make much more noise and satisfying Black smoke out the back, and generally be much much better than anything that requires points and plugs

Click to expand...

dag019 said:

Need to replace them with one of these (along with a couple of other small changes)
View attachment 280845

Then the whole thing will be greatly improved. It will stop refusing to start/run rough when it is a little damp out, make much more noise and satisfying Black smoke out the back, and generally be much much better than anything that requires points and plugs

Click to expand...

Yeah, I think not. I like doing more than 45 mph sometimes