Failed her MOT today

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wammers said:
Never heard of those but just watched a demo video. What a bloody waste of time they are, easier and quicker to strip the CV joint and fit a proper one than to go through all that crap.
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most cars it's just a squirt of lube on the cone and a yank to get it over, the other cars it's an air-tool to open the boot then just slide it into place they are really really quick! much faster than stripping it all down.

I've even made a temporary CV boot from leather and duct tape for a mini, managed to drive it from York to Manchester and it was fine :)
 
wammers said:
Never heard of those but just watched a demo video. What a bloody waste of time they are, easier and quicker to strip the CV joint and fit a proper one than to go through all that crap.
Click to expand...

Quicker? Come on! The split glue type boots take minutes to fit with minimal tools - even if you end up replacing em once a year (the one I fitted to my misses car three years ago is still sound) it'll still be quicker than fitting one new boot - especially if your balljoints have welded themselves to the hubs! Yes I can see it's better to do a job right - but these things can be a real time saver and in most cases they do work.
 
StuckAgainSteve said:
Quicker? Come on! The split glue type boots take minutes to fit with minimal tools - even if you end up replacing em once a year (the one I fitted to my misses car three years ago is still sound) it'll still be quicker than fitting one new boot - especially if your balljoints have welded themselves to the hubs! Yes I can see it's better to do a job right - but these things can be a real time saver and in most cases they do work.
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Proper job is always best. What have ball joints got to do with changing a drive shaft CV on a P38? I was referring to changing the gaiter using a cone, if you have the drive shaft out it is much easier to remove the CV from it and fit a proper gaiter than **** about with an expanding one. The glue up ones are an abortional stop gap for use by happy amateurs. I would much rather fit a proper one every ten years than a toy one ever year.
 
wammers said:
Proper job is always best. What have ball joints got to do with changing a drive shaft CV on a P38? I was referring to changing the gaiter using a cone, if you have the drive shaft out it is much easier to remove the CV from it and fit a proper gaiter than **** about with an expanding one. The glue up ones are an abortional stop gap for use by happy amateurs. I would much rather fit a proper one every ten years than a toy one ever year.
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Indeed - I did say it's best to do the job right, but if you are someone with limited time and tools and need the job done just to get through the MOT - these bodges can come in very handy. How many threads have there been of people struggling to remove driveshafts and resort to whacking them with with lump hammers? People won't even buy a puller which costs peanuts for reasonably good ones these days. I do have all the tools - but I often don't have the time. I don't know about the driveshaft on the P38 because I've never done one in isolation, but many cars require the hub to be swung away from the chassis before you get enough clearance to remove a driveshaft from the hub.
 
StuckAgainSteve said:
Indeed - I did say it's best to do the job right, but if you are someone with limited time and tools and need the job done just to get through the MOT - these bodges can come in very handy. How many threads have there been of people struggling to remove driveshafts and resort to whacking them with with lump hammers? People won't even buy a puller which costs peanuts for reasonably good ones these days. I do have all the tools - but I often don't have the time. I don't know about the driveshaft on the P38 because I've never done one in isolation, but many cars require the hub to be swung away from the chassis before you get enough clearance to remove a driveshaft from the hub.
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That is correct but with proper tooling and know how that is seldom more than a slight inconvenience. There are lots of inconveniences on vehicles having proper tooling helps considerably. No need to remove ball joints to remove hub and drive shaft. :) ;)
 
wammers said:
How long did the CV joint last?
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When I was driving through Russia in 1998 I was in a Citroen BX 19 I was at the top of Lake Bikal at a place called Ust Kut and had a cv joint break the cage and drop all its balls on the ground.
At that time there wer no Citroen agents or even any spare parts for them except in Moscow a few thousand miles awayand no internet connections anywhere in the town.
After a day hunting through the Auto market I found a guy that worked at the shipyard that had closed down but all the tools and lathes were still there and he turned out on a lathe a new cage for CV joint and also case hardened it.
It took him all day and charged me $20 US. That repair got me about 1000 miles to Bikal where I found a second hand shaft for it.
That wasn't the only part I had made up for that car while in russia but thats another story altogether.
 
ovalandrover said:
When I was driving through Russia in 1998 I was in a Citroen BX 19 I was at the top of Lake Bikal at a place called Ust Kut and had a cv joint break the cage and drop all its balls on the ground.
At that time there wer no Citroen agents or even any spare parts for them except in Moscow a few thousand miles awayand no internet connections anywhere in the town.
After a day hunting through the Auto market I found a guy that worked at the shipyard that had closed down but all the tools and lathes were still there and he turned out on a lathe a new cage for CV joint and also case hardened it.
It took him all day and charged me $20 US. That repair got me about 1000 miles to Bikal where I found a second hand shaft for it.
That wasn't the only part I had made up for that car while in russia but thats another story altogether.
Click to expand...

He must have had a serious machine shop. :);)
 
ovalandrover said:
When I was driving through Russia in 1998 I was in a Citroen BX 19 I was at the top of Lake Bikal at a place called Ust Kut and had a cv joint break the cage and drop all its balls on the ground.
At that time there wer no Citroen agents or even any spare parts for them except in Moscow a few thousand miles awayand no internet connections anywhere in the town.
After a day hunting through the Auto market I found a guy that worked at the shipyard that had closed down but all the tools and lathes were still there and he turned out on a lathe a new cage for CV joint and also case hardened it.
It took him all day and charged me $20 US. That repair got me about 1000 miles to Bikal where I found a second hand shaft for it.
That wasn't the only part I had made up for that car while in russia but thats another story altogether.
Click to expand...

Only 1000 miles, no wonder the shipyard closed down;):D:D
 
Hi guys, another update for you.

mark1971 has just been around and pluged in his nanocom (many thanks for that mark, I owe you one).

Ebay dash lights came today and whilst they fit with a bit of persuasion, they didn't work. Ended up using the bulbs from the seatbelt reminder and battery. The good news is there are no faults logged in the SRS and ABS systems, the bad news is the airbag fault is still on the dash so I'm thinking it's the rotary coupler in the steering wheel, would this be a fair assumption?

As for the cv boot, I'm going to try and bodge it just to get through the mot, when I have that and time on my side I'll get it changed properly.

On a more positive side, after disconnecting the battery on sunday the central locking decided to go on holiday again, but now it's back and working again :)

mick
 
P38Penguin said:
Hi guys, another update for you.

mark1971 has just been around and pluged in his nanocom (many thanks for that mark, I owe you one).

Ebay dash lights came today and whilst they fit with a bit of persuasion, they didn't work. Ended up using the bulbs from the seatbelt reminder and battery. The good news is there are no faults logged in the SRS and ABS systems, the bad news is the airbag fault is still on the dash so I'm thinking it's the rotary coupler in the steering wheel, would this be a fair assumption?

As for the cv boot, I'm going to try and bodge it just to get through the mot, when I have that and time on my side I'll get it changed properly.

On a more positive side, after disconnecting the battery on sunday the central locking decided to go on holiday again, but now it's back and working again :)

mick
Click to expand...

If there is a wire broken in the rotary coupling it should show a fault i would think. If there is a fault shown on the message centre there has to be a recorded fault somewhere. Are the lamps coming on then going out?
 
wammers said:
If there is a wire broken in the rotary coupling it should show a fault i would think. If there is a fault shown on the message centre there has to be a recorded fault somewhere. Are the lamps coming on then going out?
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As above, any broken circuit in the SRS system logs a fault specific to which circuit has failed. Low battery voltage also logs a fault. There are 2 bulbs for the SRS, if either fails the other will remain lit but if I remember rightly no fault is logged.
 
It did say something like circuit open or something around those lines but no bulb fitted!
Mike then put a bulb in and we ran diagnostics again and came up with no faults found in 2 systems and the 1 it would not connect to was I think sps2? I'm guessing that's for side protection bags? Which it won't have
1 thing to note! His Heater O rings are weeping :(
 
It certainly is a strange one. Now that there is sctually a lamp in there, comes on with the ignition then after a seconds goes out, the airbag fault messahe remains. I didn't put a bulb in the second srs hole, could that be it?

The only fault code to do with the srs was bulb open circuit, no codes at all since replacing the bulb and clearing it.

Mick

Edit: mark, it's been added to my ever increasing list of things to do :-D
 
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P38Penguin said:
It certainly is a strange one. Now that there is sctually a lamp in there, comes on with the ignition then after a seconds goes out, the airbag fault messahe remains. I didn't put a bulb in the second srs hole, could that be it?

The only fault code to do with the srs was bulb open circuit, no codes at all since replacing the bulb and clearing it.

Mick

Edit: mark, it's been added to my ever increasing list of things to do :-D
Click to expand...


yes - needs 2 working bulbs or you get fault
 
P38Penguin said:
Thanks Druim, I'll yoink another one and put that in and see if that sorts it.

Mick
Click to expand...

Did post info about SRS bulbs, but deleted it as i thought, stupidly as it happens, that since you just put some bulbs in you would have checked the others. Silly me.
 
well, put another bulb into the backup srs holder, ignition on an airbag fault appears and now the srs light is pulsating, continues when the engine is turned on. Bugger!

mick
 
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