Freelander 1 Engine swap Q's

The engine change is almost finished!
I've moved the Ecu over with the engine, something I did notice however is that the exhaust manifold left in the car from the previous engine has a lambda sensor. the engine and ECU that I have fitted didn't have one fitted and has no provision for it. I'm pretty sure it won't make a difference when I start tomorrow but can anyone hazard a guess if there will be a problem? oh and it's for a 1.8 petrol!

Is that a new "green" engine?

The Mad Hat Man said:

Is that a new "green" engine?

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This is the future of K series ownership, i have replaced fear and loathing of poor design with running on hopes and dreams!
There is a K series sat in its place now with a HG ready to go in.

Watching with interest.

Well I think I will be running this for the winter now, I am looking forward to driving a more "modern" land rover while it's cold and wet. I have been spending a bit more due to me keeping it for longer.

Oh and it looks like the owner was wise with this engine, the oil had gone emulsified but no where near the worst I've seen, no lumpy mayonnaise, just thinned white oil. The previous owner took the car straight off the road as soon as they knew the HG had gone which should bode well. I ran the engine before removing it and it ran well, no nocking or rough sounds! fingers crossed!

Great, Will you get the head skimmed?

Alibro said:

Great, Will you get the head skimmed?

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Yeah, I think it would be daft to do all this work and not do something so basic.

I've done a couple of them and didn't bother as they were flat when checked with a straight edge. If you use the elastomer gasket they are more forgiving of imperfections.

it looks as though you are doing a good job the only thing to worry about is the missing lambda sensor but may be some one with a bit more knowledge will come along when I first started driving we had nothing like sensors and you were luck if you had a heater in the car, oh wait a minute is not having a heater in the car a bit like being a tratter owner LOL

teddywood1 said:

it looks as though you are doing a good job the only thing to worry about is the missing lambda sensor but may be some one with a bit more knowledge will come along when I first started driving we had nothing like sensors and you were luck if you had a heater in the car, oh wait a minute is not having a heater in the car a bit like being a tratter owner LOL

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Ummmmmm excuse me, the tratter heater works fine!



It's just the windows don't seal and blow all the heat away, the "air con" flaps don't seal either and the heater only blows up to the windscreen as the valve has seized!!!

"In theory" if you swap the engine ECU over you need to swap the CCU over as well as they are coded together. If there's a mismatch on codes the car will be immobilised. I say "in theory" because some have swapped ECUs only and the car has run fine. If there is a problem, it is also possible to frig the loom so that this security check isn't performed - but you loose some of the security features (may not be a problem to you - but likely is to your insurer).

If you swap CCUs you'll need to use the remotes for the CCU, but keys for the locks.

I don't know whether there are any issues if you use a CCU from a different spec car - eg 0, 2 or 4 electric windows, 3 door or 5 door. Don't know if the CCU will adapt to the different setup.

As I said though, you may just get lucky

GrumpyGel said:

"In theory" if you swap the engine ECU over you need to swap the CCU over as well as they are coded together. If there's a mismatch on codes the car will be immobilised. I say "in theory" because some have swapped ECUs only and the car has run fine. If there is a problem, it is also possible to frig the loom so that this security check isn't performed - but you loose some of the security features (may not be a problem to you - but likely is to your insurer).

If you swap CCUs you'll need to use the remotes for the CCU, but keys for the locks.

I don't know whether there are any issues if you use a CCU from a different spec car - eg 0, 2 or 4 electric windows, 3 door or 5 door. Don't know if the CCU will adapt to the different setup.

As I said though, you may just get lucky

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Well I have the original car still so I can get the Ccu easily, just don't know where it is! could you tell me?

GrumpyGel said:

"In theory" if you swap the engine ECU over you need to swap the CCU over as well as they are coded together. If there's a mismatch on codes the car will be immobilised. I say "in theory" because some have swapped ECUs only and the car has run fine. If there is a problem, it is also possible to frig the loom so that this security check isn't performed - but you loose some of the security features (may not be a problem to you - but likely is to your insurer).

If you swap CCUs you'll need to use the remotes for the CCU, but keys for the locks.

I don't know whether there are any issues if you use a CCU from a different spec car - eg 0, 2 or 4 electric windows, 3 door or 5 door. Don't know if the CCU will adapt to the different setup.

As I said though, you may just get lucky

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Hmmmmm I may go back to the Ecu originally in the car then and see if it runs. might have to change over the harnesses to gain the lambda sensor addition?

The last thing I want to do is immobilise the car after all this work and I can't find anywhere that says a 5Dr CCU will work in the 3 door. the 3 door has a switch to sense if the roof has been removed which the CCU deals with.

The CCU is the same 3 and 5 door but is configured using T4/Hawkeye etc for the different specs

And depending on the chassis number YAxxxxxx or 1Axxxxxx will depend on the immobilisation setup on the donor car

The CCU is up behind the passenger compartment fuse box I believe - best to have a look in the Rave manual.

If you don't have the Rave manuals you can download a copy off my server...

http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/rave97.iso

or

http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/rave2000.iso

You need to open those files with something like "Virtual CloneDrive" (which is what I use) and it will become a drive letter on your PC - only works on Windows. The files relate to the year of the car - I would imagine your car is covered by rave200, but the engine came from one covered by rave97 - I only say that because Lambada sensors relate to emissions and later cars are more likely to need it!

If you are keeping the original manifold, I'd be trying with your original ECU - unless there are any other reasons why an (earlier?) engine won't work with it. I know for example that early engines had distributors, which later ones didn't and the cambelt setup changed (due to waterpump maybe?) at some stage.

However.... I don't know much about the K Series - so I don't know if this could cause any damage to the engine or electronics !!!

I'd have thought your better sticking with the ECU and CCU that came with the engine as Grumpy says and sort any minor niggles that crop up.
I'm not sure when the change to twin coil packs happened, maybe around 01.
And I think the CCU is behind the fuse box in the drivers footwell.

Is the new engine from an older or newer vehicle. All K series engine run closed loop fueling, so all have an O2 sensor. The post 2001 K has a different exhaust manifold, that contains a pre-cat. This still has an O2 sensor fitted. The pre 2001 engine has a different exhaust manifold, with the O2 sensor further down the pipe.
Just use whatever manifold came with the car which saves lots of messing about.

Sorry for the late reply, it's all running! I used the original Ecu for the car which was matched to the ccu and so no problems. The sensor issue turned out to me just being worried for no reason, the spare manifold in the parts bin in the car had a precat and lambda sensor just like the engine fitted in the donor car.

However, what I did get wrong was that an MY01 and MY02 have different drive shafts, i got the MY01 drive shafts jammed in the newer hubs as the abs pickup rings are in different places!!!