engine goes in to limp mode after a big boost

i think im getting over boost. as after a hard boosted blast the engine "looses boost" and only after i stop and start engine boost is returned.

can anybody tell me causes from over boost?

ive checked and the actuator arm moves freely.

if i hold the revs at 2500 or 3000 should the actuator arm stay out?

what tests can i do?

i dont want to keep driving it like this or i may damage the engine!

cheers

spencer

Do you get the management light on as well. Can you see the turbo actuator moving when some one blips the throttle if not the suspect boost solenoid.

booboodag said:

Do you get the management light on as well. Can you see the turbo actuator moving when some one blips the throttle if not the suspect boost solenoid.

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no management lights. and if my rather cross wife blips the throttle the actuator arm looks to move allot.

is there any way to test the boost solinoid? i hear they are rare and expensive|???

the car seem over pokey at the moment and turbo whistles is t!ts off.

cheers

might be worth checking the solenoid electrical connector .. for water/grime

just a thought ..

i.e. this happened after you went laning .. am half assuming you hit some muddy water holes .. given the recent weather

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you 100% sure it's the turbo 'screaming' .. and not a belt or bearing ?
( although i guess that don't cover the 'no-boost' .. then 'boost' on restart scenerio )

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btw: i've no idea how much the actuator arm moves .. or in which direction ..
but for lower rpm the vanes are at a large angle .. then they close to a smaller angle as rpm rise ..

Not to bad for price about £60, no real way to test, one thing to try first is to replace the turbo vent filter. I would expect to see a management light on if it was a over boost issue.

booboodag said:

Not to bad for price about £60, no real way to test, one thing to try first is to replace the turbo vent filter. I would expect to see a management light on if it was a over boost issue.

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is this the case every time for an overboost (light on for for over boost)

i did get the freelander very wet (up to doors) in muddy water, so will check elec connection on solinoid.

does the soinoid just "open and shut" with 12v though it? (can i test it) surely it opens and closes a valve inside?

ill also check the open small filter, and pipes around turbo.

is it worth me removing the actuator pipe and doing "that test" to 70mpg?
(id does loose power up hills etc)

does the soinoid just "open and shut" with 12v though it? (can i test it) surely it opens and closes a valve inside?

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i thought it Might be variable .. but don't know for sure

spent some time looking for the answer ( and as to 'operational voltage' )
but could not find anything .. internet .. or what texts i have ..

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this site might have the info ..

TOPIx - TOPIx

i've not registered there .. so can't answer that either :-(

Could well be the valve that controls the boost / actuator. From low revs the vanes in the turbo will move to give maximum air across the turbo, making it spool up quicker at low revs. As the revs climb the boost will follow, and the ECU will back off the vanes in the turbo to keep boost pressure constant. If the vanes get stuck open or the valve is faulty the engine will over boost as the revs climb and put you into limp mode...

drturbo said:

Could well be the valve that controls the boost / actuator. From low revs the vanes in the turbo will move to give maximum air across the turbo, making it spool up quicker at low revs. As the revs climb the boost will follow, and the ECU will back off the vanes in the turbo to keep boost pressure constant. If the vanes get stuck open or the valve is faulty the engine will over boost as the revs climb and put you into limp mode...

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this is exactly my thinking. totally. fits the bill.

you just get the bad feeling a 50quid boost solinoid wont fix it. before i do that is there a way i can bypass the boost solinoid to keep boost shut off?

this morning i will remove the sump guard (pain todo on the 06) and try and pull all the braided vacuum lines to inspect.(the sump guard is full of thick soil and rubble so needs a clean)

i wonder if the over spawling turbo made my freelander so effective off road (at low revs) every one was wondering how it did so was in the thick mud, big hills etc with bold road tyres. it was like a mountain goat on speed!

got a thought for proving the boost solinoid is/isnt duff.

will this work: remove the short vacuum hose between boost solinoid and actuator, and fit a long vacuum hose, one end to the boost solinoid, one end to a vacuum gauge.

drive the landy and check to see if a get any vacuum on boost
vaccum = solinoid ok, this correct?
no vacuum = turbo vanes staying open = more or too much boost., this correct?

Where about are you, as I think I still have a solenoid kicking about somewhere in garage, It does work, was keeping as a spare. But happy to let you borrow it to test.
The only thing is reading your other posts about turbo screaming it could be a issue with the turbo as never heard of problems with the solenoids causing a noisy turbo.
The other thing that I have once seen causing a boost issue was blocked cat, we ended up knocking insides of cat out and problem solved.

try jet washing the back of the engin first it just may be mud and you should never go into water if it goes over the top of the wheels unless you have everything like a snorkel and stuff you risk blowing the engin with the water getting in

booboodag said:

Where about are you, as I think I still have a solenoid kicking about somewhere in garage, It does work, was keeping as a spare. But happy to let you borrow it to test.
The only thing is reading your other posts about turbo screaming it could be a issue with the turbo as never heard of problems with the solenoids causing a noisy turbo.
The other thing that I have once seen causing a boost issue was blocked cat, we ended up knocking insides of cat out and problem solved.

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im west of bristol (nailsea)

the noise im refering too is more of a whistle noise. that could be coming from a number of this when the boost pressure is maxed out.

some times its hard to make it make that noise. but its only under full throttle/full boost it may make a whistle. (like some one blowing a sports whistle)

i thought this to be the cause of the problem (noise) but i think the over boost causes the noise.

ive got some vacuum hose today (4 metres) so will fit a vacuum gauge to the actuator pipe see if i get a vacuum.

could be just the long vacuum hose over top of engine had split.

ok so feel like a total fool now.

basicly got the car up on the ramps, looked at the turbo actuator, then noticed that the filter on the boost solinoid pipe looked brown. (last time i noticed it was clear/yellow filter) so pulled it off, and hey presto!

when i blew threw the filter muddy water shot out every where, it was full up.

this must have caused the "whistle noise" too, as i put a new filter on i had in garage and works mint. (tad slower and no wistle and no limp mode)

im sorry for not looking at this first, i just never would have belived it would get bloked. had this freelander for nearly 5 years, and it never blocked before

(basicly i went it too deep muddy water when i was green lane'ing)

wife loves me again.

Does the actuator on the turbo seem to move ok, they can soot up and the vanes will start to sieze and stick, if sooty they will usually not boost for a start, and it will appear sluggish for a start, then they will suddenly move, then get stuck and overboost. This normally happens if the engine is not driven hard enough and not cleared out regularly.

You could just plug the vacuum pipe to the turbo, and you should get no boost, the turbo will start to spool very quietly as the revs climb though, but you will feel no power.

If the actuator feels free then it could well be the valve, there isn't a stone or something stuck on the actuator preventing it from coming off boost completely??

The Hippo's generally are fairly good in the mud, ours has pulled 2 tons across some pretty sh!tty thick mud on fields and not got stuck, traction control was getting a workout but it kept on trucking, at the Norfolk show one year virtually everything was getting stuck and needing a tow, ours pulled us out no worries, on Michelin Syncrones at the time...

Not as big as fool as me cos I cant believe I didn't read the thread above saying you sorted it.... what a gimp!
Glad its sorted... cheers for letting us know.

Ha ha I wondered that when reading the fix, hopefully this will cure my similar issue, although I thought I may have knackered my maf through over cleaning

Xedi Billy said:

Ha ha I wondered that when reading the fix, hopefully this will cure my similar issue, although I thought I may have knackered my maf through over cleaning

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Easy done, I mis diagnosed the MAF on my Audi, cleaned it and pi$$ed it right up, the bugger would barely get up hills!!

Hi, i was wondering if anyone could help regarding the boost solenoid. I have seen on threads that there is an actuating arm that changes the veins/fins on turbo. This actuating arm apparently is prone to seizing.

Could someone tell me where this actuating arm is located, is it next to the boost solenoid? Any pictures?

Thanks in advance.

where this actuating arm is located

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it's on the turbo ..
the vacuum diaphram and actuating arm are part of the turbo unit

variable vane turbos all look similar for the most part ..

( example pic attached ) ..

on the freelander .. i imagine to view it .. be a case of removing the engine undertray .. crawl underneath and look for it at the back of the engine ..

as for the actuating arm .. just like any metal linkage that might be exposed to crud 'n grime .. in the long term it will probably corrode 'n seize up ..

i don't know what a preventative solution might be .. ( apart from cleaning it now and again )
maybe some high-melting point grease applied sparingly ?? .. or similar ..