Electric into MUD console

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NewbieWithA90

Member
Posts
33
Location
Derbyshire
Very very limited electrical knowledge so bare with me.

I have a MUD dash console which will just have 3 new gauges and a usb charger in it for now. But to future proof it for a head unit and other bits at some point I thought I'd run a new circuit from the battery into a fuse box behind the console.

Is that the safest / easiest way? And what should I use to actually take the connection from the battery, is there something which fits on the positive and negative terminals?

Thanks for reading!
 
Normally you would get power from the aux' circuit which come off the back of the ignition switch, the aux is only live when the key is turned to it's first position, and goes dead when you remove the key.
Taking power directly from the battery means it's always live and you run the risk of flattening the battery.

What car do you have ?
 
It's a 1990 90, I thought about that but was worried that as I add more I might overload that circuit. I suppose gauges aren't a massive pull on it though, could I sort of piggyback off the ones in the binnacle?
 
It's a 1990 90, I thought about that but was worried that as I add more I might overload that circuit. I suppose gauges aren't a massive pull on it though, could I sort of piggyback off the ones in the binnacle?
Remove binicale & look at the ignition barrel. Get your live from there.
 
Okay thanks chaps I'll do that. I just wasn't sure how much you could add without it becoming a bit overloaded.

Regarding gauge bulbs, shall I piggy back those from one of the existing gauges such as the fuel one? What's the preferred equipment for doing that, I believe the piggyback spade endings aren't seen as very professional?
 
If you mount the aux fusebox behind the console then it means that if you have an issue you need to remove the console just to check a fuse. Mount the aux fusebox where you like but you don't want to make life difficult for yourself in the future.
Personally I do have an aux supply direct from the battery and it connects via a fused battery post connection taken from a Puma.
One supply goes through my FIA switch which isolates almost the entire electrical system. The other (low power) supply does not get isolated as it supports the interior lights, alarm, tracking device, radio back-up etc.
 
If you’re worried about overloading the ignition live circuit by using a main feed from the ignition switch, instead run a separate feed to your console from the battery live fitting a relay (power to make) that is switched from the ignition live. This way you get an ignition switched live straight from the battery. Just remember to fit circuit overload protection on your new circuit and work out your cable sizes to suit.
 
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