Datatek
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Solid state strain gauge technology would have been better.
EAS - My tale of woe.
- Thread starter domino
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Solid state strain gauge technology would have been better.
tomcat59alan
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ahaha, sorry, I meant on the joins of the arm (elbows), not on the actual sensor itself
Is there any Water to be Displaced on the joints ?
Castor
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There have been plenty of options since the 60's. Hall effect or LVDT probably the most robust.
VAG did the same with their throttle module feedback on the Audi & Volvo's - the after-market Hall effect solution is cheaper, more robust and doesn't need calibrating on setup.
Anyhow, that's not helping anyone - it just reinforces my opinion about the gross ineptitude of motor vehicle electronics designers.
(EDIT)Or maybe they are just very good at extracting stupid money from we punters.......
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Future will be grim for new drivers when they fail their test because the automatic parallel parking didn't work.
brianp38dse
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Future will be grim for new drivers when they fail their test because the automatic parallel parking didn't work.
Hadn`t though about that, makes you wonder how did we all couped no, pas abs tc esp and all the other modern stuff, who needs heated stearing wheels
tomcat59alan
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Hadn`t though about that, makes you wonder how did we all couped no, pas abs tc esp and all the other modern stuff, who needs heated stearing wheels
And no seat belts or air bags, how did we survive.
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And no seat belts or air bags, how did we survive.
People feel insulated from harm these days. Seat belts, airbags, crumple zones, ABS. Etc Etc Etc. Maybe that's why they drive like bloody idiots.
Castor
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And no seat belts or air bags, how did we survive.
I put a bullseye in an MGA windscreen with my head when I was 8.
10 mph shunt.
Probably explains a lot.
Castor
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People feel insulated from harm these days. Seat belts, airbags, crumple zones, ABS. Etc Etc Etc. Maybe that's why they drive like bloody idiots.
They should be taught to heel & toe down a crash box AND cadence brake whilst opposite locking on a downhill bend......
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having been through a windscreen at 15mph, I totally agree with seat-belts. But the rest should only be available after people have learnt to control, stop, reverse, & park, etc. without the gimmicks.
Mate of mine always said "learners should have to ride a bike for a while (so they don't pull out on you), and then learn to reverse a transit (so they can park), before being allowed in a car !! "
Edit: Sorry gone off thread . . . . will shut up now.
Mate of mine always said "learners should have to ride a bike for a while (so they don't pull out on you), and then learn to reverse a transit (so they can park), before being allowed in a car !! "
Edit: Sorry gone off thread . . . . will shut up now.
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tomcat59alan
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So, wee bit of an update. Checked the sensor connections, all fine. I've bought a valve block on eBay and a refurb kit so I can rule that out later on.
I have noticed, however, that when 'testing', the bum always takes longer to drop than the front. Is that normal?
I have noticed, however, that when 'testing', the bum always takes longer to drop than the front. Is that normal?
Datatek
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Yes, to avoid pointing the headlights at the sky. Bum up first, down last
Castor
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Yes, to avoid pointing the headlights at the sky. Bum up first, down last
P38 mating behaviour?
Datatek
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If 2 P38's mated, it would produce a real batard
Yes, to avoid pointing the headlights at the sky. Bum up first, down last
Cheers Datatek - more concerned with the speed tho. The front drops a lot quicker than the fat arse
Datatek
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Hmm maybe there is a fecking great engine in the frontCheers Datatek - more concerned with the speed tho. The front drops a lot quicker than the fat arse
tomcat59alan
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But not to worry, it's original and unmolested my ar$e
my ar$e
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Hmm maybe there is a fecking great engine in the front
That's what I thought. Clarification, however stupid, is always good.
Hi,
I hope you get it sorted. Mine has had similar issues in the past and it always turned out to be compressor- or bag-related. I would recommend that you get a set of 4 emergency inflation valves. These clip onto the end of each air line once removed from the valve block and lets you inflate your airbags at any service station or from a portable pump which plugs into your cigarette lighter. The main benefit is of course that you will never have to drive on your bump stops. The other is that they are great for finding leaks. Disconnect your pipes, inflate each cornet to ride height or even a bit above. Make sure to have something heavy in the boot. Check your pressure with a tire-gauge and write down. Leave overnight and check again and compare. There shouldn't be much of a difference from the previous day unless the temperature has changed dramatically. If you have a leaky airbag or a pin-hole in a tube / leaky connector, it will become very obvious from this test.
I always keep mine in the cubby and they have saved me quite a few times.
Good luck!
Henrik
I hope you get it sorted. Mine has had similar issues in the past and it always turned out to be compressor- or bag-related. I would recommend that you get a set of 4 emergency inflation valves. These clip onto the end of each air line once removed from the valve block and lets you inflate your airbags at any service station or from a portable pump which plugs into your cigarette lighter. The main benefit is of course that you will never have to drive on your bump stops. The other is that they are great for finding leaks. Disconnect your pipes, inflate each cornet to ride height or even a bit above. Make sure to have something heavy in the boot. Check your pressure with a tire-gauge and write down. Leave overnight and check again and compare. There shouldn't be much of a difference from the previous day unless the temperature has changed dramatically. If you have a leaky airbag or a pin-hole in a tube / leaky connector, it will become very obvious from this test.
I always keep mine in the cubby and they have saved me quite a few times.
Good luck!
Henrik
