EAS 'hidden' fault codes - anyone know what they mean?

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rufusw5

Member
Posts
91
Hello,

My P38 is slammed, doesn't appear to try to lift, I can start the pump using the EAS unlock software but it won't do it automatically... After clearing a load of random faults i get these:

F8:128_hidden
FA:128_hidden
FB:128_hidden
FC:128_hidden

Along with something about the vehicle has moved, anyone know what they mean?

Cheers :D
 
Compressor is knackered. Constant running without making air or because of a leak has blown the thermal cutout switch. Refurb your compressor or get a new one. Check for system leaks. Check thermal switch by stripping back insulation on Orange wire (leave it plugged in) wrap one end of a wire round bare wire and earth other end if compressor runs thermal switch is duff. Remove blue pipe from compressor with compressor running put your finger over outlet, your finger should be blown off. If you can prevent air escaping piston seal is knackered.
 
wammers said:
Compressor is knackered. Constant running without making air or because of a leak has blown the thermal cutout switch. Refurb your compressor or get a new one. Check for system leaks. Check thermal switch by stripping back insulation on Orange wire (leave it plugged in) wrap one end of a wire round bare wire and earth other end if compressor runs thermal switch is duff. Remove blue pipe from compressor with compressor running put your finger over outlet, your finger should be blown off. If you can prevent air escaping piston seal is knackered.
Click to expand...

Cheers - I'll have a look tomorrow morning and let you know what I find..!
 
wammers said:
Compressor is knackered. Constant running without making air or because of a leak has blown the thermal cutout switch. Refurb your compressor or get a new one. Check for system leaks. Check thermal switch by stripping back insulation on Orange wire (leave it plugged in) wrap one end of a wire round bare wire and earth other end if compressor runs thermal switch is duff. Remove blue pipe from compressor with compressor running put your finger over outlet, your finger should be blown off. If you can prevent air escaping piston seal is knackered.
Click to expand...

Ok - I ran the compressor with EAS unlock software and it seems ok, can't stop the air from escaping no matter how hard i push my finger over the outlet so it should be ok..

The thermal switch, I installed a jumper accross the thermal switch (Between the earth and the orange wire, in the form of a piece of copper wire from some 60 A cable wrapped around the terminals in the plug) and still no joy - same symptoms, runs when told to with software but just doesn't fire up on it's own.

I read the EAS faults again and all it said was 'Vehicle moved', no other faults.

Even if the thermal switch is knackered it doesn't appear to be causing problems... I checked for continuity accross it (Orange to black wires) but there was nothing, but i think these switches need power accross them before they do anything, although I'm not sure...

One other thing, this system has never worked in the time i've had this RR so although this is a daft question... Do the pumps normally fire up with the key on, engine stopped, or does the motor need to be running?

Appreciate any help!
 
rufusw5 said:
Ok - I ran the compressor with EAS unlock software and it seems ok, can't stop the air from escaping no matter how hard i push my finger over the outlet so it should be ok..

The thermal switch, I installed a jumper accross the thermal switch (Between the earth and the orange wire, in the form of a piece of copper wire from some 60 A cable wrapped around the terminals in the plug) and still no joy - same symptoms, runs when told to with software but just doesn't fire up on it's own.

I read the EAS faults again and all it said was 'Vehicle moved', no other faults.

Even if the thermal switch is knackered it doesn't appear to be causing problems... I checked for continuity accross it (Orange to black wires) but there was nothing, but i think these switches need power accross them before they do anything, although I'm not sure...

One other thing, this system has never worked in the time i've had this RR so although this is a daft question... Do the pumps normally fire up with the key on, engine stopped, or does the motor need to be running?

Appreciate any help!
Click to expand...

If there is no continuity across Orange Black wires thermo switched is knackered. Engine has to be running. It is causing problems because the EASunlock runs the compressor direct, it does not use pressure sensor or thermo switch circuits. If thermo switch is duff ECU cannot run compressor. So you did not strip insulation back as i said and leave plug in position? Plug MUST be in socket or there is no connection to ECU.
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
If there is no continuity across Orange Black wires thermo switched is knackered. Engine has to be running. It is causing problems because the EASunlock runs the compressor direct, it does not use pressure sensor or thermo switch circuits. If thermo switch is duff ECU cannot run compressor.
Click to expand...

Thanks... But the compressor should run if I earth out the orange wire? Because I tried that and it still doesn't run...

How does the compressor run through the thermal switch? I'm guessing the orange wire goes to the thermal switch, which then connects to the brushes, so if the thermal switch is knackered the only way the get the compressor to run normally would be to bypass the switch, maybe by swapping the green wire with the orange wire... Is the green wire just an emergency pump override, or full time 12v supply?

I know these switches are a one leg in one leg out job so i'm guessing no 12v supply is required unless the pump needs to run...
 
rufusw5 said:
Thanks... But the compressor should run if I earth out the orange wire? Because I tried that and it still doesn't run...

How does the compressor run through the thermal switch? I'm guessing the orange wire goes to the thermal switch, which then connects to the brushes, so if the thermal switch is knackered the only way the get the compressor to run normally would be to bypass the switch, maybe by swapping the green wire with the orange wire... Is the green wire just an emergency pump override, or full time 12v supply?

I know these switches are a one leg in one leg out job so i'm guessing no 12v supply is required unless the pump needs to run...
Click to expand...

You did not follow the instructions. If there is no continuity between the black wire and the Orange wire, with plug disconnected the thermal switch is duff. The thermal switch is connected from the earth side of the motor to the ECU if there is no earth continuity to pin 16 on ECU it will not run the compressor simple as that. That is why i said leave plug connected and strip insulation back a little. The Green wire is the power supply to pump, under no circumstances must it be connected to Orange wire. Thermo switch will be destroyed immediately. Follow the instructions or you will make yourself a lot of trouble.
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
You did not follow the instructions. If there is no continuity between the black wire and the Orange wire, with plug disconnected the thermal switch is duff. The thermal switch is connected from the earth side of the motor to the ECU if there is no earth continuity to pin 16 on ECU it will not run the compressor simple as that. That is why i said leave plug connected and strip insulation back a little. The Green wire is the power supply to pump, under no circumstances must it be connected to Orange wire. Thermo switch will be destroyed immediatly
Click to expand...


Ok, the jumper I mentioned was installed between the black wire and the orange wire, so this should have earthed the ECM pin, which should have allowed the compressor to start...

All in all it's pretty clear that the thermal switch is duff.. But it's not clear why when earthing the orange wire out the pump still didn't start? Maybe I didn't explain what i did very well, I disconnected the plug to check for continuity between black and orange, found none so made the jumper up between the black and orange wire then plugged it back in... Still wouldn't run unless forced by EAS unlock...
 
rufusw5 said:
Ok, the jumper I mentioned was installed between the black wire and the orange wire, so this should have earthed the ECM pin, which should have allowed the compressor to start...

All in all it's pretty clear that the thermal switch is duff.. But it's not clear why when earthing the orange wire out the pump still didn't start? Maybe I didn't explain what i did very well, I disconnected the plug to check for continuity between black and orange, found none so made the jumper up between the black and orange wire then plugged it back in... Still wouldn't run unless forced by EAS unlock...
Click to expand...

There are two circuits that stop the pump from running. Thermal switch circuit that must be made and pressure sensor switch that must be open. If the EASunlock can run the pump it means the circuit from the ECU pin 8 is ok (That pulls relay in) and the relay is working. And that there is earth continuity through Black wire. That leaves the pressure switch and the thermo switch. If there is no continuity Black to Orange thermo switch is duff. Only reason i gave you the other way of testing, which you did not follow as described, was because on many occasions if i said check continuity. I would get back "How do you do that" everybody has a piece of wire not everybody has a test meter. Check the continuity across the pressure sensor terminals these must be open circuit (no continuity) for compressor to run. When you bridged pins 2 and 3 on plug then plugged it in maybe it was not full home.
 
The Wammer clearly indicated the connector MUST be plugged in THEN you cut back a piece of insulation and earth it...

Not sure if a bridge would work, even if you plugged it in, as the Black wire you have bridged to may be at fault....Plug it in, cut back a bit of the insulation and bridge this directly to earth
 
Saint.V8 said:
The Wammer clearly indicated the connector MUST be plugged in THEN you cut back a piece of insulation and earth it...

Not sure if a bridge would work, even if you plugged it in, as the Black wire you have bridged to may be at fault....Plug it in, cut back a bit of the insulation and bridge this directly to earth
Click to expand...


Black wire is ok if compressor runs at all. It is the earth path for the motor. But plug MUST be full engaged or that could compromise Orange wire connection to ECU pin 16 which there MUST be when Orange wire is earthed.
 
wammers said:
Black wire is ok if compressor runs at all. It is the earth path for the motor. But plug MUST be full engaged or that could compromise Orange wire connection to ECU pin 16 which there MUST be when Orange wire is earthed.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure why the bridge didn't work, I removed the plastic pin retainer to make room for the wire, the plug clicked home and the pump would still run when commanded by eas unlock so I assumed everything connected..

I stripped back the insulation of the orange wire and stuck an earth bridge in place, when running the engine nothing happened for a few mins then the compressor started running! Looks like these things have a timer after detecting thermal overload before allowing the pump to run again!

Anyway... hardwired a bridge wire in to get me going, after some initial drama (One of the back airbags wasn't seated properly, and blew itself apart, it resealed ok though :D) all appears to be well!!

So - on to the ABS light, then the SRS light, then fix some oil leaks..., the fun never stops :D

Cheers for all the help, you must get sick of explaining what to do to people like me, it is appreciated though :D:D:D:D
 
Correct, there is a timed delay for the Pump to cool down first....not sure how long this delay is, but I do know there is one...
Just looked in the WSM and ETC....no mention of delay time...just that the thermal switch cuts in a 120degC....

Glad you got it sorted (kind of - until new thermo switch is sourced)
 
Saint.V8 said:
Correct, there is a timed delay for the Pump to cool down first....not sure how long this delay is, but I do know there is one...
Just looked in the WSM and ETC....no mention of delay time...just that the thermal switch cuts in a 120degC....

Glad you got it sorted (kind of - until new thermo switch is sourced)
Click to expand...

I'm just happy it works at the moment! I think i'll leave the bypass wire in until after MOT, then have a go at replacing the thermo-switch in the compressor, from what I gather it's attached to the brush plate which is riveted onto the back of the motor plate, so it's a case of drilling the rivets then and soldering a new thermo switch in then re-riveting or sticking some self tapping bolts in..

Sounds like a bit of a faff but do-able - I'll let you know how i get on when I get round to it... Could be a while before it's MOT at this rate, the fairy lights on the dash are very seasonable but not MOT-able...
 
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