EAS Diaphragm which type to fit

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depends if you have lots of £££ its nearly always (with exceptions) best to get OEM parts, if not, then the P38 guy on flebay duz them, if you think how long yours has lasted then you cant do better to get exactly the same part to replace the worn/broken one
 
Having fitted a solid rubbertype diaphragm( handy spare purchased from ebay) my compressor would not stop running and then overheated. Having just fitted the correct oem metal backed one my EAS is now correct. The all rubber type was not resealing after the exhust cycle. Lesson learnt!
 
!!! The new Diaphragm is just out of beta-testing and we really would appreciate your input after using our seal. This is why we will SHIPPED THE ITEMS FOR FREE when your input is provided (email: [email protected]) within 14 days after receiving this item !!! :fighting:
 
Cant understand why you buy a beta, when there's proven stuff out there that works, if you have a look at posts on here, you will find the Dutch stuff is meant to be u/s and everyone is complaining the stuff is crap, tulips fine... P38 stuff... crap, get one from the recommended sources if I was you, now I'm not saying the myself the stuff is crap, but then again why risk it when the known stuff is good ( and price dont come into it when its only a few ££ more or less)
 
I bought the diaphragm last year when I first bought my P38. I had it as a spare just in case. As I was stuck the otherday with a failure I rebuilt my compressor with a new bearing and seal and fitted this diaphragm. No air came out when the compressor was running, but the diaphram was staying open after the compressor stopped and did the dump cycle. hence the pressure switch would see a drop and start the compressor again until it got too hot.
 
dean68uk said:
I bought the diaphragm last year when I first bought my P38. I had it as a spare just in case. As I was stuck the otherday with a failure I rebuilt my compressor with a new bearing and seal and fitted this diaphragm. No air came out when the compressor was running, but the diaphram was staying open after the compressor stopped and did the dump cycle. hence the pressure switch would see a drop and start the compressor again until it got too hot.
Click to expand...


That is not possible. Pressure sensor is in line from tank to block after NRV1. It registers stored pressure in tank and in Violet coded pipe back to NRV1. Diaphragm valve is not in that circuit unless compressor is running. It and air drier/pipe work only has pressure against it or in it whilst tank is being filled, after gallery is exhausted to atmosphere when compressor stops, there is no pressure against diaphragm valve or in drier or pipework to drier, unless air is exhausted from bags. Because the inlet gallery has now become the exhaust gallery. A leaking NRV1, or pipe work to tank, or tank would cause your problems, but not a leaking diaphragm valve.
 
dean68uk said:
There is a huge difference in the exhaust function with the new diaphram compared to the all rubber type.
Click to expand...


Maybe the all rubber one is thicker or stiffer and the spring holds it on the valve seat more making it harder for air to pass it when high pressure air is evacuated. But i can absolutly assure you that was not the cause of your compressor continuously running. It is not possible.
 
Thinking about it, the compressor ran then stopped did the exhaust cycle then the front end dropped which is the extra air from the exhaust. leaking NRV?
 
dean68uk said:
Thinking about it, the compressor ran then stopped did the exhaust cycle then the front end dropped which is the extra air from the exhaust. leaking NRV?
Click to expand...

You have just opened another can of worms saying that. No exhausting of air can take place from bags whilst compressor is running. Suspension can go up but cannot come down. That is because same gallery is used to fill tank as is used to exhaust from bags. If the front was to high the system would have to wait until compressor stopped before exhausting excess air. Even if front bag valves and exhaust valve were open nothing can pass through NRV3 because the air pressure in front of it (filling tank) would be far greater than that behind it waiting to be exhausted from bags.
 
i uesd dutch kit to rebuild my block..its perfect,no leaks,solid diaphram..perfect..

prehaps its down to how one rebuilds block???
 
wammers said:
You have just opened another can of worms saying that. No exhausting of air can take place from bags whilst compressor is running. Suspension can go up but cannot come down. That is because same gallery is used to fill tank as is used to exhaust from bags. If the front was to high the system would have to wait until compressor stopped before exhausting excess air. Even if front bag valves and exhaust valve were open nothing can pass through NRV3 because the air pressure in front of it (filling tank) would be far greater than that behind it waiting to be exhausted from bags.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help so far.
The compressor had stopped. Then the air came from the exhaust. First a woosh. Then clicking and lowering from the front and more air. Both diaphragms were fitted correctly to a clean block. All pipes were checked for leaks.
 
got my new diaphragm valve from what was Rover Renovations about a year ago, up to now ( touch wood ) no problems!

does anybody know what his new web site is called?
 
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