DT with a slipping clutch

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

chort

Active Member
Posts
163
Location
Koper, Slovenia, EU
Yesterday i did a thing that i don't usually do to my range... i floored it in 3rd and 4th gear (manual of course) and my clutch slipped when the turbo kicked in at 2,200 RPM.

It never did that, not fully loaded in 1st and 2nd, but i admit that i drive it like a granny :mil80:

question: should i change the clutch right now, or can it wait a bit, considering my pretty boring driving habits? The DMF sounds and feels ok and the car is driving quite nicely other than that.
 
If it ain't broke don't fix it


Can't be that bad yet when it does it in first or second gear or when the car is cold in the mornings and it slips is time to worry
 
Found this when I couldnt work out why mine slips in 3 and 4 and not in 1 or 2. Put it down to the extra torque output from the PSI box fitted. Great example of how PSI and autoboxes arent a happy marriage.

WHY DO CLUTCHES SLIP IN 4th GEAR AND NOT AS OFTEN IN 1st, 2nd or 3rd GEAR?
In a car often things such as engine RPM, engine torque and engine power output are varying all the time. One initial concept that helps a little in understanding the forces on clutches and gears in the drive chain is to fix one variable and consider a concept of a constant engine power output and call it CEP.

We can define CEP as an engine power output that is some continuous stable value and such that the car has acquired a stable road speed. Under these circumstances the drive power is continuously supplied via a torque (turning force) through the drive train to the wheels. This CEP is exactly equal to all of the losses due to friction of every kind in the car and in the car’s interaction with its environment, including wind & tire resistance etc. The car has no unbalanced force acting on it under this condition and therefore it is not accelerating or decelerating and has a stable road speed. Engine power and torque do in practice vary with RPM but it can be useful to think of it as stable over a range of RPM’s as will be explained.

Torque itself is a measure of force (Newtons) applied perpendicular to a fulcrum arm of some radius in meters and we generally are familiar with it as a turning force to tighten nuts using a Torque wrench. Torque is a product of force and perpendicular distance (┘distance) and therefore is a measure of work in joules and the work is done in pushing mass around a circumferential pathway. The relationship between torque and power (joules per second or Watts) supplied by the engine is:

Power (engine) = Torque x angular velocity ( of flywheel or crankshaft).

The angular velocity has units of radians per second. There are 2π radians in one rotation so to convert this into RPM then the angular velocity of say your engine’s flywheel is:

Angular velocity (flywheel) = (2 x π x RPM)/ 60 = approximately 0.1 x RPM.

So using the two relations above and breaking the torque into its two components of force and ┘distance and making the engine power a CEP we have:

CEP = 0.1 x Force x ┘Distance x RPM

All of the ┘distances or fulcrums if you like, at any place in the drive train or gearbox, overdrive, clutches and gears, differential and tires size etc are fixed by their geometry. So we can simplify the above scenario further and say for this approximation:

Force x RPM = Constant.
Or equally: Torque x RPM = another Constant.

Any clutch surfaces in the drive train, whether they be in the O/D unit, or the G/boxes main clutch have to transmit the torque or force without slipping. If we assume that the engine power is approximately constant (CEP) over a range of RPM say between 2000 and 3000 rpm then we can see from the relation above what an imposed change of RPM on the engine will do to the torque and therefore the forces on the clutch surfaces. Forced changes in engine rpm at some car road speed occur when you change gears or when the overdrive unit is switched on or switched off which changes the gearing.

Therefore at some CEP if the RPM is forced up by gearing then the clutch surfaces experience a decrease in force and if the RPM is forced down by gearing the clutch surface experience an increase in force.

This is the reason why a failing gearbox clutch will slip more easily in 4th gear than lower gears, because the forces on its surfaces are higher in 4th gear than lower gears for any CEP. Usually with a slipping clutch it seems fine in low gears, then you change from 3rd to 4th gear and attempt to accelerate in 4th gear and it begins to slip as the forces exceed the holding frictional forces of the clutch surface.
 
Thanks lads.

Wammers, i think my DMF should be fine, but heat will ruin it quite fast i reckon. I do not get any of the lumpy tickover symptoms often referred on the LZ. I get shaking in the drivetrain in 2nd and 3rd when driving really slowly through roundabouts and alike, but suspect that is from the slack in the drivetrain, not DMF.

aerofabrique, i understand now :) have you got it sorted out just by changing the clutch plate or the entire kit with pressure plate and/or release bearing?
 
Ashcroft did the whole lot for me, for the comparitively small cost of a bearing and the work involved. Still slips slightly because of the high torque (370nm from recent dyno) output from the tuning box. Cant find a HD clutch sensibly priced for a P38 though.
 
Last edited:
Found this when I couldnt work out why mine slips in 3 and 4 and not in 1 or 2. Put it down to the extra torque output from the PSI box fitted. Great example of how PSI and autoboxes arent a happy marriage.

WHY DO CLUTCHES SLIP IN 4th GEAR AND NOT AS OFTEN IN 1st, 2nd or 3rd GEAR?
In a car often things such as engine RPM, engine torque and engine power output are varying all the time. One initial concept that helps a little in understanding the forces on clutches and gears in the drive chain is to fix one variable and consider a concept of a constant engine power output and call it CEP.

We can define CEP as an engine power output that is some continuous stable value and such that the car has acquired a stable road speed. Under these circumstances the drive power is continuously supplied via a torque (turning force) through the drive train to the wheels. This CEP is exactly equal to all of the losses due to friction of every kind in the car and in the car’s interaction with its environment, including wind & tire resistance etc. The car has no unbalanced force acting on it under this condition and therefore it is not accelerating or decelerating and has a stable road speed. Engine power and torque do in practice vary with RPM but it can be useful to think of it as stable over a range of RPM’s as will be explained.

Torque itself is a measure of force (Newtons) applied perpendicular to a fulcrum arm of some radius in meters and we generally are familiar with it as a turning force to tighten nuts using a Torque wrench. Torque is a product of force and perpendicular distance (┘distance) and therefore is a measure of work in joules and the work is done in pushing mass around a circumferential pathway. The relationship between torque and power (joules per second or Watts) supplied by the engine is:

Power (engine) = Torque x angular velocity ( of flywheel or crankshaft).

The angular velocity has units of radians per second. There are 2π radians in one rotation so to convert this into RPM then the angular velocity of say your engine’s flywheel is:

Angular velocity (flywheel) = (2 x π x RPM)/ 60 = approximately 0.1 x RPM.

So using the two relations above and breaking the torque into its two components of force and ┘distance and making the engine power a CEP we have:

CEP = 0.1 x Force x ┘Distance x RPM

All of the ┘distances or fulcrums if you like, at any place in the drive train or gearbox, overdrive, clutches and gears, differential and tires size etc are fixed by their geometry. So we can simplify the above scenario further and say for this approximation:

Force x RPM = Constant.
Or equally: Torque x RPM = another Constant.

Any clutch surfaces in the drive train, whether they be in the O/D unit, or the G/boxes main clutch have to transmit the torque or force without slipping. If we assume that the engine power is approximately constant (CEP) over a range of RPM say between 2000 and 3000 rpm then we can see from the relation above what an imposed change of RPM on the engine will do to the torque and therefore the forces on the clutch surfaces. Forced changes in engine rpm at some car road speed occur when you change gears or when the overdrive unit is switched on or switched off which changes the gearing.

Therefore at some CEP if the RPM is forced up by gearing then the clutch surfaces experience a decrease in force and if the RPM is forced down by gearing the clutch surface experience an increase in force.

This is the reason why a failing gearbox clutch will slip more easily in 4th gear than lower gears, because the forces on its surfaces are higher in 4th gear than lower gears for any CEP. Usually with a slipping clutch it seems fine in low gears, then you change from 3rd to 4th gear and attempt to accelerate in 4th gear and it begins to slip as the forces exceed the holding frictional forces of the clutch surface.

So basically the sudden force allows the clutch to slip, in higher gears the force is faster greater than lower gears it's usually the pressure plate that is a fault not the plate , used to have a car that would not change go in to first when cold but, onced warmed up no propblem the fact was the tongs on pressure plate has swollen allowing a larger slip gap allowing a gear change shall we put that into the equation.
 
if you try setting off in a higher gear youll soon see why clutch slip shows in higher gears first ,dmf and full clutch kit would be required to do the job properly ,changing just some would require gear box removal for further replacement not too long after
 
Thanks lads.

Wammers, i think my DMF should be fine, but heat will ruin it quite fast i reckon. I do not get any of the lumpy tickover symptoms often referred on the LZ. I get shaking in the drivetrain in 2nd and 3rd when driving really slowly through roundabouts and alike, but suspect that is from the slack in the drivetrain, not DMF.

aerofabrique, i understand now :) have you got it sorted out just by changing the clutch plate or the entire kit with pressure plate and/or release bearing?

If the DMF is fine now change the slipping clutch before the heat destroys it. Which it surely will. The DMF is there for the express purpose of smoothing out pressure on the drive train at low RPM and low speeds in high gears. It serves no other purpose.
 
if you try setting off in a higher gear youll soon see why clutch slip shows in higher gears first ,dmf and full clutch kit would be required to do the job properly ,changing just some would require gear box removal for further replacement not too long after

Yes James i agree. Changing both is best bet. But if the DMF is serviceable now it surely will not be in a few hundred miles with a slipping clutch.
 
if you try setting off in a higher gear youll soon see why clutch slip shows in higher gears first ,dmf and full clutch kit would be required to do the job properly ,changing just some would require gear box removal for further replacement not too long after

Wasn't suggesting some parts after all splitting box with out doing pressure plate clutch and realease bearing would not be cost effective
 
I'd change it asap, mainly because of the possibility of heat damaging the DMF.

Also I believe in Slovenia it gets very cold with white fluffy stuff in a couple of months , get your clutch sorted before the snow arrives....and have fun in the white slippy stuff.

PS. It appears you may live in a warmer area of Slovenia, I visited Ljubjana a few years ago in December it was a bit chilly to say the least.
 
Last edited:
The verdict: I'll change the clutch as a kit, but the DMF will have to wait at least for me to get to it and assess it's state. I'm doing work myself, as i understand i do not need any special tools, right? Well, apart from some way of shifting the tranny out of the way, but i'll manage that hopefully :ballchain:

zzr, yes i'm on the coast actually, so we don't get a lot of snow here. But, i am in the mountainous region near Postojna every other weekend and doing field work all over Slovenia, that's where the Range gets into its own territory... The winters are for sure a bit worse than in UK, but bearable.. can't wait for the snow, i just need to change tires for that or every kid in a ford fiesta will drive circles around me...
 
The verdict: I'll change the clutch as a kit, but the DMF will have to wait at least for me to get to it and assess it's state. I'm doing work myself, as i understand i do not need any special tools, right? Well, apart from some way of shifting the tranny out of the way, but i'll manage that hopefully :ballchain:

zzr, yes i'm on the coast actually, so we don't get a lot of snow here. But, i am in the mountainous region near Postojna every other weekend and doing field work all over Slovenia, that's where the Range gets into its own territory... The winters are for sure a bit worse than in UK, but bearable.. can't wait for the snow, i just need to change tires for that or every kid in a ford fiesta will drive circles around me...

Just a self made aliment tool:)
 
Back
Top