Does a Ronbox cause IRD failure ?

Hi to all in landy land,

I've been steadily working my way through all the problems on my 55 plate TD4 which the previous owner had chosen to ignore !

Hopefully the last for now is the sluggish performance low down. I've done all the EGR blanking, BMW modified crankcase breather, changed all the turbo hoses and cleaned out the inlet manifold as the last knobhead to change the oil put 2 litres too much in there and everything on the inlet side got covered in it.

I'm wondering if the MAF has got contaminated as the it's pretty gutless under 2000rpm. The car is now 9 years old and has 60,000 on the clock so maybe the MAF is on it's way out anyway.

If I opt for a Ronbox and new Peirburg MAF will the extra power wear my IRD any faster ? Does anyone have any experience of long term use of the Ronbox affecting reliability?

I have already done the VCU as a precaution and changed the oil in the IRD which was a bit grey with drop out, but no 'proper' swarf in there. So I added some Molyslip to give it a bit more of a chance !

Cheers for now

nope don't think so, try cleaning all your inlet system out it will do the world of good mine was the same a 2006 hse td4 auto and it had done 47,000 when I brought it 2 years ago and was very sluggish earlier this year we got the inlets off and they were absolutely gunged up ,it is a messy job but we washed it all out including the maf which was nearly seized , and now a couple of months later it is going faster and better economy .hope this helps

The IRD in good condition will take much more torque than the TD4 engine can make. If you are worried, just change the oil more often.

Hi Teddywood,

Thanks for the reply. I changed all the inlet hoses fro new and did the manifold, but nothing forward of that in the system. Did you do the intercooler too and turbo etc - if so, how did you go about it ? Call me a bit thick, but where does all this oil get into the inlet system from ? Is it the turbo seals leaking or something like that ?

Also, I've not taken the MAF out yet, but looking at the replacements on the web, they seem to be encased in a plastic housing, how do you clean those out easily ?

Thank for you help.

Perkins

Just disconnect the MAF and see how it drives. If is is faster with it disconnected, then you need a new MAF. Cleaning might help.

Don't bother with a Ronbox or a remap (my preferred option) until you have the car running perfectly, as all you will do is have even more problems, as a Ronbox or remap accentuate any issues that already exist. Many people blame the 'box, but their car had the problem already.

Don't need to do the intercooler. I guess from what you have said that you take taken off the inlet manifold and cleaned it out. A very messy job I believe. One I have yet to do, but should.

When was the fuel filter last changed - the one under the rear wheel arch? The low pressure fuel pumps also go after about 100,000 miles, but sometimes less, sometimes more.

Hi Epicuser,

Thanks for the info. Is the MAF easy to get at once you've got it out of the housing.

What's best to clean it with, switch cleaner or brake cleaner, as I believe they are a bit delicate ?

All the best,

Perkins

perkins said:

Hi Epicuser,



Thanks for the info. Is the MAF easy to get at once you've got it out of the housing.



What's best to clean it with, switch cleaner or brake cleaner, as I believe they are a bit delicate ?



All the best,



Perkins

Click to expand...

First off they use an unusual security Torx bit.

You get at it by removing the rear cover.

Don't run the engine with the cover off, as you will get oil spray everywhere as one of the bolts appears to block a hole!

As for cleaning, not sure. I would be tempted with brake cleaner if it was dirty, but it will be more aggressive than switch cleaner. Your choice!

perkins said:

Hi Epicuser,

Thanks for the info. Is the MAF easy to get at once you've got it out of the housing.

What's best to clean it with, switch cleaner or brake cleaner, as I believe they are a bit delicate ?

All the best,

Perkins

Click to expand...

you will need a special torx socket to remove the 2 screws holding the maf , been covered on here have a look

perkins said:

Hi Teddywood,

Thanks for the reply. I changed all the inlet hoses fro new and did the manifold, but nothing forward of that in the system. Did you do the intercooler too and turbo etc - if so, how did you go about it ? Call me a bit thick, but where does all this oil get into the inlet system from ? Is it the turbo seals leaking or something like that ?

Also, I've not taken the MAF out yet, but looking at the replacements on the web, they seem to be encased in a plastic housing, how do you clean those out easily ?

Thank for you help.

Perkins

Click to expand...

I did not touch the inter cooler or the turbo , I did put on new turbo/intercooler hoses from DPH ,I wish LR would have designed the inlet pipes so you could split them in half .

Thanks for all your help. I've had a shufty at the other threads about removing the MAF sensor, so it looks like I'll be spending tomorrow under the bonnet, complete with hacksaw !

Should please my better half (again !) that the garden will be taking a back seat again to the Landy "What have you bought - we never had all these problems with the Hilux !"

Yeah, but a car's never properly yours until you've skinned your knuckles on a few stubborn nuts.............

Great forum this, always friendly and quick advice, it makes owning a Landy so much more fun.