Discovery Sport Sept 2015 - Breakdown

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HLD95

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Hello

Context: we purchased the car in August 2023 and is still under warranty until 11 Feb 2024

I have a Discovery Sport SE Tech SD4 A (2015) which broke down at the weekend. Driving as normal and all warning lights and engine codes came up, and i mean all of them. Pulled over, turned the car off to check the engine for any mishaps, got back in after no seeing anything and the car wouldn't turn on. The initial button press (push button start) turned the lights and dash on etc as normal but when holding the break and pressing again to turn the engine over, nothing happened.

Got the car recovered home and someone came out yesterday to do a diagnostics. This found no actual faults with the engine as suspected and most likely an electrical fault causing the car to think it has problems and that the battery is the likely culprit and has shorted. We changed the battery last night to find water pooled under the battery. The electrics, auto boot opening etc seem more responsive. The car is now moving the seats to the last saved memory setting as it usually does when you get in.

We now have the problem that the steering wheel is locked - we've never locked it before, we have tried but it's never done it. From a quick online search it seems this has happened because we haven't coded the new battery to the car. I have an OBD reader arriving today specifically for JLR that can register a new battery.

I was just wondering if anyone else has had this same issue, will registering a new battery fix my problem or are we going to be stuck with a locked steering wheel?

Warranty wouldn't cover a new battery despite us having the car less than 6 months and barely putting 3000 miles on the clock. We also have some minimal cash inflow at the moment so any knowledge or advise would be helpful!!
 
The battery can fail without warning, but it wouldn't normally stop the engine running.

To release the steering lock, try wiggling the wheel like had to be done on older key type ignition locks.

Normally the vehicle needs to a new battery is fitted, but it's not essential for the vehicle to run.

Sounds like water has got somewhere it shouldn't have. Were you driving in heavy rain or through deep puddles?

What size engine is it, as the change year was 2015.

Oh and owning an LR with minimal funds available isn't wise, as they can throw a very costly curve ball without warning.
I keep at least £1k available for mine just in case of emergencies. I've owned LRs for over 15 years, and know from experience they can empty a wallet pretty quickly.
 
M
Nodge68 said:
The battery can fail without warning, but it wouldn't normally stop the engine running.

To release the steering lock, try wiggling the wheel like had to be done on older key type ignition locks.

Normally the vehicle needs to a new battery is fitted, but it's not essential for the vehicle to run.

Sounds like water has got somewhere it shouldn't have. Were you driving in heavy rain or through deep puddles?

What size engine is it, as the change year was 2015.

Oh and owning an LR with minimal funds available isn't wise, as they can throw a very costly curve ball without warning.
I keep at least £1k available for mine just in case of emergencies. I've owned LRs for over 15 years, and know from experience they can empty a wallet pretty quickly.
Click to expand...
battery changed and recoded last night with a new OBD reader. It was the storm at the time but no deep puddles.

We’ve dried off everything we can reach for the time being, but given it’s still rainy where we are and the car is stuck on the road it’s getting splashed everytime someone drives by.

The engine was running fine it was only when we turned it off and went to turn it back on it didn’t want to, which is annoying. We now believe the only reason it isn’t coming back on is because the steering is locked. We’ve done the wiggle trick and it’s just not budging. Not sure whether to lift the front end up and try with some load off the front?

Read recorded and cleared the fault codes last night when coding the battery and the two that are coming back up are U0001 high speed CAN bus and U0300 steering lock authorisation.

It’s the 2.2L.

We had a little money away for the landy until about 2 weeks ago when the boiler just stopped working 🙃 if it doesn’t rain it pours..
 
The steering lock authorisation would be the likely cause. It's probably jammed, which does happen to these electric locks sometimes.
Have you tried wiggling the steering to see if the steering lock is free?
 
I suspect the problem is the key (have you tried the spare?,) the transponder or the KVM module given the fault codes you state. it's near impossible to give you any guidance other than the HS-CAN fault would be flagged in a lot of modules if it was really the cause, the steering lock authorisation could be a faulty antenna / transponder or a KVM issue - have you tried re-syncronisation as per the user manual? if you have a lot of 'clutter' on the keyring, that can also cause issues.
 
We have tried the wiggling the steering wheel and that didn’t work and we’ve tried holding the key over one of the transponders(is that right?) in the car but I didn’t think about re synchronising the key. Will try that this evening
 
Nodge68 said:
The battery can fail without warning, but it wouldn't normally stop the engine running.

To release the steering lock, try wiggling the wheel like had to be done on older key type ignition locks.

Normally the vehicle needs to a new battery is fitted, but it's not essential for the vehicle to run.

Sounds like water has got somewhere it shouldn't have. Were you driving in heavy rain or through deep puddles?

What size engine is it, as the change year was 2015.

Oh and owning an LR with minimal funds available isn't wise, as they can throw a very costly curve ball without warning.
I keep at least £1k available for mine just in case of emergencies. I've owned LRs for over 15 years, and know from experience they can empty a wallet pretty quickly.
Click to expand...
Updated list of all of the fault codes. Car is being reecovered to a garage tomorrow hopefully to be fixed under warraty if we ever find out what the issue is...

ABS - 4 Faults
U0028 Vehicle communication bus A
U0300 Internal control module software incompatibility
U0001 High speed CAN communication bus
U0001 High speed CAN communication bus

IPC Instrument Cluster - 3 Faults
B100D Column lock authorisation
U0001 High speed CAN communication bus
U0001 High speed CAN communication bus

Body Control Module - 1 Fault
U0001 High speed CAN communication bus

GSM Gear Shift Module - 1 Fault
U0001 High speed CAN communication bus

AWD Control Module - 1 Fault
U0300 Internal control module software incompatibility

Gateway Module - 1 Fault
U0028 Vehicle communication bus A
 
The fact the KVM isn't listed as showing any DTC's but the GWM is showing a 'bus A' loss of comms would suggest that (after checking basics like power & CAN connections) that the KVM is the cause of the issue. Well, with 'armchair diagnosis' anyway.
 
The update no-one wanted... Car is in the garage and has been for a week now. Don't think the warranty is going to cover the problem as the garage seems to think the wiring loom is the issue. Obviously with it being under warranty they can't strip the car down to confirm this but have ruled out everything else they thought of before getting to wiring loom. 😭

On a completely separate un-realted note, does anyone want to buy a 2015 discovery sport? 👀
 
The only times I've had to change a body harness is due to water ingress, if they're saying there is an issue with the harness disrupting communications, they should be able to prove it! - anything else is just guesswork or lazy diagnostics. There are plenty of options - identify where the fault is (using a piece if equipment called a 'time domain reflectometer' or the old way of 'halving') and repair as required, identify the affected communication pair and install an overlay repair harness. Use a specific CAN diagnostic tool to 'stress test' between nodes, there is a version available for FlexRay if 'simple' electrical checks don't reveal the fault location or pair, also, a 'scope can be used to easily check the quality of the signals before the interior is stripped out.

It might sound like a big task, it is - but it's 'bread & butter' work for a diag. tech.
 
Graculus said:
The only times I've had to change a body harness is due to water ingress, if they're saying there is an issue with the harness disrupting communications, they should be able to prove it! - anything else is just guesswork or lazy diagnostics. There are plenty of options - identify where the fault is (using a piece if equipment called a 'time domain reflectometer' or the old way of 'halving') and repair as required, identify the affected communication pair and install an overlay repair harness. Use a specific CAN diagnostic tool to 'stress test' between nodes, there is a version available for FlexRay if 'simple' electrical checks don't reveal the fault location or pair, also, a 'scope can be used to easily check the quality of the signals before the interior is stripped out.

It might sound like a big task, it is - but it's 'bread & butter' work for a diag. tech.
Click to expand...
I’m just being told it’s turned into a massive job and warranty likely won’t cover it and that’s it. Not really sure what to do from here 🤷‍♀️
 
Get a written diagnosis - not an 'opinion', a proper diagnosis, then contact the warranty co. yourself, ask them which part of the proposed repair they will - and won't cover. The wording of the diagnosis is crucial, it's not possible to say 'the problem is body harness' without any supporting tests or evidence, a wiring harness generally doesn't fail unless there's outside influence (water, heat etc.) a latent defect (incorrect fitting at manufacture, damaged insulation etc.) an overload or a failed (or failing) terminal or connector housing. So there can be no 'wear & tear' which is generally the first line 'get-out' for warranty companies.....
The other thing to consider is that the repairer are saying 'warranty probably won't cover it' because they don't have a real diagnosis to present, just a 'this & that seem to be OK, so it must be the bit in the middle' which I've seen put forward as a diagnosis and is absolute horsesh!t.

A few years ago I was a regional tech. for a vehicle manufacturer, I've visited dealerships that were having problems diagnosing vehicles, the things that stood out were 'confirmation bias' - tech's would decide what was wrong on a 'it'll be this, it's always this' basis and leap-frog the diagnostic path, to the wrong but popular conclusion... Not paying sufficient attention to measurements, and assuming the measurement is wrong if it doesn't fit the criteria (example:- sensor supply voltage is 5.0VDC +/- 0.25VDC, a measured value of 4.69VDC isn't OK, but was assumed to be 'near enough'). Not carrying out the basic checks properly, on the grounds that 'it won't be that' - I went to a dealer that a senior tech had spent three weeks on & off looking at an intermittent EML and low boost faults, all the basic checks had (supposedly) been done and were OK, various sensors and the turbo actuator had been changed, to no avail - well it wouldn't make any difference with a 5A fuse blown, they'd used a test light to check it but with 12V on the supply side and 8V on the consumer side back-feeding from the control module and enough to illuminate a LED test light...

My point in the above rambling is that someone isn't doing their job properly in providing a solid and logical diagnosis - and the service manager should get a grip, start again to provide the cause for the warranty co. to determine if it's covered rather than worrying about the techs whining about losing bonus on a 'problem' job - that's why diag/master tech's only have a much lower productivity level than filter-spinners, often it takes many hours or days to find the cause of a 1/2 hour repair requirement, but the diagnosis can & should be chargeable if it's linear, logical and documented!.
 
Graculus said:
Get a written diagnosis - not an 'opinion', a proper diagnosis, then contact the warranty co. yourself, ask them which part of the proposed repair they will - and won't cover. The wording of the diagnosis is crucial, it's not possible to say 'the problem is body harness' without any supporting tests or evidence, a wiring harness generally doesn't fail unless there's outside influence (water, heat etc.) a latent defect (incorrect fitting at manufacture, damaged insulation etc.) an overload or a failed (or failing) terminal or connector housing. So there can be no 'wear & tear' which is generally the first line 'get-out' for warranty companies.....
The other thing to consider is that the repairer are saying 'warranty probably won't cover it' because they don't have a real diagnosis to present, just a 'this & that seem to be OK, so it must be the bit in the middle' which I've seen put forward as a diagnosis and is absolute horsesh!t.

A few years ago I was a regional tech. for a vehicle manufacturer, I've visited dealerships that were having problems diagnosing vehicles, the things that stood out were 'confirmation bias' - tech's would decide what was wrong on a 'it'll be this, it's always this' basis and leap-frog the diagnostic path, to the wrong but popular conclusion... Not paying sufficient attention to measurements, and assuming the measurement is wrong if it doesn't fit the criteria (example:- sensor supply voltage is 5.0VDC +/- 0.25VDC, a measured value of 4.69VDC isn't OK, but was assumed to be 'near enough'). Not carrying out the basic checks properly, on the grounds that 'it won't be that' - I went to a dealer that a senior tech had spent three weeks on & off looking at an intermittent EML and low boost faults, all the basic checks had (supposedly) been done and were OK, various sensors and the turbo actuator had been changed, to no avail - well it wouldn't make any difference with a 5A fuse blown, they'd used a test light to check it but with 12V on the supply side and 8V on the consumer side back-feeding from the control module and enough to illuminate a LED test light...

My point in the above rambling is that someone isn't doing their job properly in providing a solid and logical diagnosis - and the service manager should get a grip, start again to provide the cause for the warranty co. to determine if it's covered rather than worrying about the techs whining about losing bonus on a 'problem' job - that's why diag/master tech's only have a much lower productivity level than filter-spinners, often it takes many hours or days to find the cause of a 1/2 hour repair requirement, but the diagnosis can & should be chargeable if it's linear, logical and documented!.
Click to expand...
Sounds like I certainly need a second opinion however my main concern is that my warranty end date is this Sunday. Surely if the car breakdown was pre warranty ending they should still cover it at this point even if the warranty period ends?

My partner usually deals with all of this but whilst the car has been out of commission he was using his motorbike to get to work as we had no other option and has had an accident in the horrible weather so I’m just trying to fight my way through everything whilst he just heals himself without this added stress. I just want my car sorted, do you happen to know of any specialist diagnostics / master techs in the North West (Chorley) that I could contact this weekend?

Also thank you for your detailed replies , hopefully when I speak to the garage again I have some decent questions to ask.
 
You're correct in saying that as long as the defect was notified & diagnosis was started before the insurance expiry date, then it is still insured for the repairs. Just make sure it's still taxed & insured for road use until the issue is resolved - that's a popular get-out for warranty companies! I can't help with recommendations unfortunately, it might be worth asking the warranty company if they have any 'approved repairers', that will also help with repair cost approval.
Good luck!
 
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