Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

Oh and I was thinking, regards our meet up (which simply cannot not happen because i must have a look at yours before it gets ruined) Solihull is about half way from me to you which is sort of handy

Also would have to see about some lanes in the area for a shake down.

Hopefully both discoveries won't disintergrate when they come face to face with their chemical equivalent from the opposite hemisphere

Brake calipers are now on and yeah I do need to get some nipples fro the rear. However the calipers are only cheap new so have out these on a wish list for after Christmas.

The front pipes that broke have now been replaced although I am not happy with them as they aren't perfect . Fortunately the rear pipes have been replaced but the master cylinder to front corners are original, well one side isn't anymore as I replaced that this weekend - did I just mention that? :doh:

Just need to replace the front pads but foundry have sent the wrong clips and split pins for the front so I will have to wait again

Anyway the hubs are looking nice all painted and I am now planning the week ahead.

With regards a meet - my mum always said be weiry of strangers wanting to met over the Internet............

Yeah it would be fun and could be done in the new year once I have shaken the old girl loose a little. I will of course video the maiden trips and a prelim photo shoot is a must when all done. As I am originally from Nottinghamshire and my misses from Birmingham I think we know the area and where to have some fun

Finally what are your thoughts on trailing arms. I was thinking in the short term to mill some slanted bush mounts to take out the stress until I decide what I want

hello

im not looking for any kind of long term relationship so tell your mother not to worry

urm, trailing arms? well my fave are QT because they match the front, but i have britpart because way back when i ordered them i did not have my knowledge!

the principal is they are cranked, qt are double cranked for plenty of clearance on the bracket (i cut a half round into the axle bracket) and they are usually slightly longer to allow for the increased angle.

you could machine a bush but why not crank your own arms? if you have access to a press brake its a 2 minute job.

other than that, cranked arms are a cheap part to buy. aftermarkets tend to be thicker for strength (not sure if its necessary tbh although mine do do a lot of scraping on rocks) so just have a look about and see whats your fave.

the britpart items i go didnt fit in my rear bushes, had to take a few thou off the pins with some emery. great!

how would u go about bending them ina press.. like heat or just straight up?

Cheers Mr Noisy,

I would like to keep the theme going right through the old girl so either Terrafirma or QT are the ones I would go for if/when buying.

Having only just performed the lift etc I have not had chance to actuall articulate the axles yet so do not know what is going to catch first

Bending the existing arms can be done stright up and I am aware that they are quite thin walled items compared to after market ones.

I hadn't thought of notching out the axle brackets as obviously I havent done the test but it is something that I will do.

So to summarise I will be fitting double cranked arms to aid clearance and put in new bushes as well. Personally I do prefer the QT eqipment. My mate has just got a hold of front and rear diff guards and they look the business As they say "I am well jell"

Moving onto the front - I am going to add the self centre steering damper as seen on yours and it will match nicely to my suspension. Pity it will be covered up by the steering guard when I get that but hey better than the original getting ripped off as my last one almost did.

The front castor arms need looking at. I have thought of 3 degree bushes but not 100% sure where the adjustment is needed. Is it at the bush end again as per the trailing arms or more adjusting the flange angle on the axle?

Any help on that one?

No onto the front

Hi mate

The caster corrected arms are actually more straight than standard. Basically they actually roll the axle backwards to give it the original angle, just lower down.

You will see how the axle rolls forward as it drops, a straighter hockey stick will bring it back again. Geddit?

Also they are cranked for the exact same reason as the rears to preserve the bush and allow better droop.

Cheers.

Thanks for that Noisy. I did some more research today and the general consensus follows that you don't need them if you are prepared to put up with a little wandering. I do plan on getting a self centering steering damper like yours so perhaps this will help.

My review of the information lead me to believe that by using correction arms you are then leading yourself to using a wide angle prop as the arms make the vibrations worse due to increasing the angle differential between the transfer box and the front axle.

I have come across some people who say that a better way to make the correction is by re-drilling the hubs. However this has brought to the surface other issues over metal fatigue etc.

So onto tonight's work.
The brakes have been bled although the pedal still seems soft. The numpties where I ordered the brake pads from have sent the wrong bloody ones so I haven't managed to change the front pads

I fixed on the head lights and grill so at least she is looking a little more like a Discovery. Just need to sort out the indicators as they fit differently on the 300 Discovery and I don't have all the brackets needed so will have to make them up.

Tomorrow nighti have to clean and remount the sedementor and then prepare the boot for the new chequer plate that was delivered today.

Finally I will be looking at making sure the rear springs are set correctly and then on go the wheels again

All in all a long evening. My life seems to be unduly busy at the moment. I am leaving for the gym at 6am every morning. Arriving at work for 8:30. Then leaving work at 5pm to come home, grab some dinner and then outside in the freezing cold to sort the car out. Can't wait until its done. Oh and another thing, yesterday I entered myself into a half marathon in a little over 12 weeks and this will be the first one i have done -what a **** :doh:

Glutton for punishment then...

Urm yeah the best way to correct the caster is to cut and re weld the axle tube, but obv this is work and needs to be done superbly well!

I am running a wide angle front prop after my front started vibrating due to spline wear after about a year.

It seemed to manage the articulation though and didn't bind the joints. Maybe it was just old age?

Not sure how much droop you are having on your front axle.

You will have to see how it drives, if anything it might be better with the 12.5 tyres on to make it a bit more lively, but on the other hand it might tramlines like crazy.

I had a disco with around 3" lift and 265 insas on, standard arms. It was verging on unpleasant to drive, definitely didn't instil confidence, whereas as mine I feel i can throw into a corner and come out alive. It actually drives very well tbh, even lifted it simply seems to shrug off the speed into the tyres.

With that 5" rear I reckon you'll need a wide angle rear prop, mainly because you'll need the 110mm slide joint.

You'll almost certainly need a prop spacer otherwise you'll pull the joint out, or worse pull your transfer box flange out (yeah I had a disco that did that too!)

As it happens I have a prop spacer here which I removed when I fitted my wide angle prop.

Yours £15 delivered sir

Mr Noisy,

I have PM'd you - urr misses re prop spacer.

I havent got a wide angle prop on the wish list yet. how long do you think I will last without one. The axle is new so dont want to f it up.

cheers

yea i would say with a 5" lift the prop wont last long at all esp when u go on the bumpy stuff and start to increase the angle even further!

the front prop might be ok for a good while but the rear will certainly struggle with 5" rear shocks on.

if not instant failure tbh...

pm replied

spoke to my bother in law today, he has +5 shocks on his 110 n he has an extreme angle prop on it

110 has longer rear prop, so a 100 inch disco would have even more trouble!

Will have to do an articulation test!

I reckon you'll manage up front with a spacer, at least for a decent while, but rear might simply be impossible.

Cheers!

OK - Now im depressed

If i cant get away with a spacer in the short term, then Im buggered until January to afford a rear prop Oh dear :doh:

Cant wait for the articulation test when the trailing arms jamb against the axle and rip the bushes out and then the prop drops off

Props

OK so research this lunchtime has come up with this.

A guy installed the flanges from a RRC onto his propshaft. I have attached photos.

Apparently it has given him a wide angle prop with 14mm of extra length. Any thoughts

Where does the wide angle prop has its benefits?

They look pretty similar to standard disco to me!

Wide angle prop has lower profile UJ yokes and a 110mm slide joint, as opposed to about 40mm standard.

IMO the extra slide is more beneficial than the wide angle, but in your case for the rear I think you'd be needing both benefits...

yea don't think it has given him any real UJ moment, if he has done what it looks like it would give him no extra benefit as 50% of it still fouls at extreme angles, so no extra angle.
You want a double cardan rather than a single cardan imo

I was looking at double cardan, the thing which swayed me towards wide angle was the slip joint.

Not sure about bailey morris custom etc, but as far as i know a disco 2 double cardan has a standard length slip, which is no good for me!

Hi there,

Well now in am confused. So are we saying that I will be needing a double Cardin shaft similar to the ones that Gwynn Lewis sells?

Guess that is being added to the list.

Tonight I welded in the new framework for the boot floor and finished painting the rear of the chassis. It all looks very nice but what a sod - in the dark with a lead light and all the cables to the grinders and welder are black and I have big clumsy feet lol.

Mr Noisy, check your messages matey.

Cheers.

Got your pm dude.

Speak to bailey morris and/or GKN - they are manufacturers so you may aswell cut out the middle man.

A double cardan is nice for extreme angles and for that super smooth motorway feeling, but for a car with 2" front dampers you probably wont benefit from the double cardan joint. A wide angle will be sufficent. Furthermore you might be ok with just the spacer up front, especially with standard arms which are shorter.

Im saying you will need wide angle on the rear for sure, simply because you need that 110mm slip.

A spacer will be no good because you have do much travel. A spacer is fine for 2" shocks because you have same amount of travel usually.

Hope that makes sense!