Diesel tank removal help

Hey all
How Do I get the stupid diesel tank out then? 1987 110 diesel.
I’ve removed the 2x nuts at the front and the 2x nuts at the back. I’ve removed all the pipes and wires.
So to the left it won’t clear because of the fuel feed pipe. To the left it won’t clear because of the fuel fill pipe.
What’s the trick then??

I remember struggling a bit with mine many moons ago. Remove the sender.

Should drop downwards and then slide the neck out?

It will if he takes the sender out.

Flossie said:

It will if he takes the sender out.

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I think that’s the only option. Bit of a daft design.
Do you really need a special tool to do the sender locking ring up, or will a tap round with a screwdriver do it?

congo181 said:

I think that’s the only option. Bit of a daft design.
Do you really need a special tool to do the sender locking ring up, or will a tap round with a screwdriver do it?

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Tap it round with a screw driver.

you have removed the bars for the tow hitch?

Hicap phill said:

Tap it round with a screw driver.

you have removed the bars for the tow hitch?

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Yep they’re gone. It’s all ready to drop just the pipe from the sender is in the way. I’m tempted to cut it short and then use a hose clamp instead of the union.

Make a note of the orientation of the sender.
Just get a wide chisel/screwdriver to tap the tabs round.it’s on a taper so will soon come out. Then slowly remove the fuel level float.
It’s an easy job.
You have got this far without too much butchery.

New rings are/were cheap.

Success. Bit more fuel left than I thought.
Thanks all.

Now give the tank a good clean & paint it well.

Hicap phill said:

Now give the tank a good clean & paint it well.

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I would, but it appears to have a leak :-(
There’s rust on the bottom of the tank in two places, plus corresponding rust on the cover plate. There was a small pool of fuel on the floor overnight from under the tank. Can they be repaired? Or at £120 shall I just renew…

Hicap phill said:

You have got this far without too much butchery.

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Don’t think I didn’t notice that @Hicap phill ;-)

congo181 said:

I would, but it appears to have a leak :-(
There’s rust on the bottom of the tank in two places, plus corresponding rust on the cover plate. There was a small pool of fuel on the floor overnight from under the tank. Can they be repaired? Or at £120 shall I just renew…

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Look for a galvanised 1.

yep you can repair but look at what you would have to do to save a few quid to replace it in a few months

Hicap phill said:

Look for a galvanised 1.

yep you can repair but look at what you would have to do to save a few quid to replace it in a few months

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Can’t find a galv one anywhere. At £900+ for a genuine one, I’m tempted to try and repair mine. I’ll get a camera in it and see what it’s like inside and make a decision. I’m sure I could silver solder it, or just weld in a patch.
If not, it’s going to have to be a pattern part.

Not so good.
New tank methinks.

I’ve found a local guy who just repairs radiators and fuel tanks. He’s going to braze it up for me for a modest £60. Fingers crossed!
It’s a bloody stupid design where the bash plate doesn’t have any drain holes…..

I was quite disappointed on my tank replacement that you have to fit the sender after the tank is in place or it fouls the chassis. You can get a good fit and access off the car, less so scrabbling on your hands and knees trying to get a sealing ring fitted whilst gripping a torch in your teeth …1,2,3…10

doriz said:

I was quite disappointed on my tank replacement that you have to fit the sender after the tank is in place or it fouls the chassis. You can get a good fit and access off the car, less so scrabbling on your hands and knees trying to get a sealing ring fitted whilst gripping a torch in your teeth …1,2,3…10

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Luckily for me, I’m doing this with the rear tub off but I can see it would be more painful otherwise.

I got a pattern part replacement a few years ago after I got fed up of trying to plug leaks in my old one.
What I did is sealed up any gaps where water might ingress where the bottom plate meets the main body of the tank, then put a thick coat of dinitrol all over the tank before fitting.
I forget how long it's been but it still looks good, no signs of rust.