Diesel L Series Freelander Sender

Hey guys anyone know the part number for a fuel sender car is a freelander L series 1998 turbo diesel 2.0L have been told the one on my car is all rusty

Cheers

The fuel sender is made of plastic, so can't possibly rust.
The only thing fuel related that rusts is the fuel tank cradle.

Im not sure nodge the old owner said it had rusted as the fuel gauge doesnt work any idea what it could be?

WildOne said:

Im not sure nodge the old owner said it had rusted as the fuel gauge doesnt work any idea what it could be?

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I understand now.

It is possible for the fuel measurement resistor to fail. So I suspect that's what the PO ment. You can test this my simply connecting together both wires that go to the sensor. This will complete the circuit and the gauge should display a full tank. If it doesn't get off its stop, then the fault is somewhere else.

Is there anywhere online i can find a microfiche so i can look up part numbers and find the parts i need? cheers

Thanks Kev but i need part numbers of the sender unit so i can buy a replacement

WildOne said:

Thanks Kev but i need part numbers of the sender unit so i can buy a replacement

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That link brings up a page for the tank and associated bits - click on the image and then keep clicking and drilling down till you get the part number displayed.

There may be duplicates - ensure its for the right VIN number for your car.

I just translated that web site it only does the fuel for 1.8L and 2.5L petrol engines, mine is 2.0 Diesel the early non BMW model engine

I didnt check first, but its strange the L series isnt there
Anyway quick google search and i believe this is the one for you, but please double check
https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/WFX100980

Kev12 said:

I didnt check first, but its strange the L series isnt there
Anyway quick google search and i believe this is the one for you, but please double check
https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/WFX100980

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Granted that lrcat site isn't particularly clear - but that is the part number it gives. Doesn't say specifically its for the L Series - but a little bit of effort determines that it is. I don't think that it specifically says which engine any of the sender/pumps relate to but going by the VINs it narrows it down and a bit of googling of the possible part numbers points you in the right direction.

Thanks guys hardest bit is some web sites are in another language other than english so a bit tricky to convert, i ordered a new Brit Part clutch from LR Direct it was sent from the UK to Australia within 3 working days mighty impressed with that service going to try install the clutch over the next couple of days

does anyone know how to reset the cars electronics i drove it today in 1st gear i had to use a lot of throttle to go no where the ABS light is on so i think the car is in limp mode i need to some how reset the limp mode

I use LRDirect as well - but it takes them 7 days to get stuff here, obviously 3 days to the other side of the planet and 4 days to cross the ditch!

Not sure why you think the ABS light has anything to do with "Limp Mode" - limp modes relate to engine - ABS relates to brakes. I'm not sure the L Series has a limp mode anyway.

I would take the car along to a Landie garage (indie?) and get the codes read. If it is the ABS light that's lit it will tell you which component the ABS system thinks is faulty - could be a wheel sensor, brake switch etc. When I've had the ABS fault light lit, it has also been accompanied by the TC and HDC lights (the 3 Amigos). I've had it twice and both times it was the Wabco ABS modulator/pump shuttle valves that were faulty. I got a replacement pump from a breakers both times.

A full read of the diagnostics might give some indication of why the engine is performing poorly. Other than just no power, are there any other symptoms? eg hard starting, smoke, missing etc.

Resetting the diagnostic fault codes won't fix the problems - you need to fix the problems so the codes don't come up and warning lights lit.

Thanks mate the car runs fine just it takes a lot of peddle movement before the car starts to move but this could be clutch related will see once the new clutch goes in

I had to pay big bucks for the shipping of the clutch AUD $80 not sure what that works out in pounds, clutch was AUD $105

Thnks for the advice i will call around to see how much it cost to get the computer red, we sell diagnostic machines here but i have been told i need the high end model AUD $200

Shipping sounds about right, I got a load of brake parts shipped over about a year ago, including 2 drums - the parts were $230 and shipping $147 - that's NZD, about the same in AUD and 1/2 it for UKP.

If the engine revs and the car doesn't move, then yeh, the clutch is shot. If you press the throttle and the engine doesn't rev, then it won't be the clutch.

Have you done these tests....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

I will check that link now and yeah i can press the peddle and it doesnt rev

WildOne said:

Thanks mate the car runs fine just it takes a lot of peddle movement before the car starts to move but this could be clutch related will see once the new clutch goes in

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The L series has like 90 Bhp, so it's pretty low on power by modern standards. It doesn't have a limp mode either, as it's a very basic EDC engine design.

Anyone know how to remove the gearbox? me and my cousin spent 7 hours trying to remove the gearbox for a new clutch install the gearbox is absolutely married with the engine we removed all the bolts including the hidden bolts on the transfer box the gearbox moves around 2mm apart but it just wont come off

the drive shaft is out too anyone know what is going on?

Have you removed the IRD completely?

No shouldnt have to according to youtube videos, i just found out we missed that center hidden bolt on the ird the one closes to the engine vlock no idea how we will get into it

Also when i removed the drive shaft no oil came out (manual transmission)