Dave Smith's Freelander

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Well done on persevering with the calipers, I feel like I cheated a bit by just replacing them. They are on today, but the next problem manifested when bleeding the system. The Ezee Bleed thing works great, flushing out all the bubbles. But can I get the bleed screws on the rear drums to shift?! Rusted to hell, and because they are so close to the pipe union, can't get a tool in squarely, so they are rounding. There the the drums will have to be taken apart to remove the wheel cylinders and replace all screws, (and cylinders as they were on £6 each). The good news is the shoes look ok on the drum I took off. The other drum is stuck until I get screw extractor as some ape thought it was good to reuse totally mangled screws! I hope you don't have any of these fun and games! and it might be worth checking those rear bleed screws move, or at least get penetrating oil on them.
 
you may find the aluminium cylinder has corroded, the corrosion pushes the cylinder away from the back plate and the bleed screw becomes very hard or impossible to get at. The bolts will not come out either, on the one I did a couple of weeks ago it took me an hour to get the back plate to rotate round so I could grind off the bolt heads. The back plate had bent due to the corrosion so I had to planish it back flat. Lucky I am time served sheetmetal worker by trade. I looked at mine and they are the same so would think its a common fault. I plan to get two new cylinders and replace the short brake pipe and the cylinders at the same time. I might do the whole brake pipe system as they are all shot including the flexi hoses. You can see how good they are on a pic I took this weekend doing the diesel filter
 

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Dave,
check out frost restoration, I have no link to them other than being a customer for POR15 products. They do high temp caliper paint, as well as loads of rust eaters and paint systems
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4Bee4Bee said:
Well done on persevering with the calipers, I feel like I cheated a bit by just replacing them. They are on today, but the next problem manifested when bleeding the system. The Ezee Bleed thing works great, flushing out all the bubbles. But can I get the bleed screws on the rear drums to shift?! Rusted to hell, and because they are so close to the pipe union, can't get a tool in squarely, so they are rounding. There the the drums will have to be taken apart to remove the wheel cylinders and replace all screws, (and cylinders as they were on £6 each). The good news is the shoes look ok on the drum I took off. The other drum is stuck until I get screw extractor as some ape thought it was good to reuse totally mangled screws! I hope you don't have any of these fun and games! and it might be worth checking those rear bleed screws move, or at least get penetrating oil on them.
Click to expand...
I haven't tried bleeding my rears yet so forgive me if this is a stupid suggestion but could you get a 1/4" socket onto it? Many are hex so no issue with rounding the bolt. Once loosened you could use a ring spanner to bleed.
 
Unfortunately there is about 1.5mm distance at most between the bleed screw and the brake pipe fixing, so getting a socket to fit has been a problem. Not enough room for a ring spanner either. Any open spanner I used could not be pushed all the way into the bolt because the opposite side would then hit the brake pipe fixing, and then not be able to rotate. So new screws and cylinders all round. At least they are not expensive, but just a nuisance, as I wanted to get the car back on the road today. I've ordered some longer bleed screws to try and prevent this from happening next time around.
 
4Bee4Bee said:
Unfortunately there is about 1.5mm distance at most between the bleed screw and the brake pipe fixing, so getting a socket to fit has been a problem. Not enough room for a ring spanner either. Any open spanner I used could not be pushed all the way into the bolt because the opposite side would then hit the brake pipe fixing, and then not be able to rotate. So new screws and cylinders all round. At least they are not expensive, but just a nuisance, as I wanted to get the car back on the road today. I've ordered some longer bleed screws to try and prevent this from happening next time around.
Click to expand...

Most brake spanners are openended or make your own by cutting a slot in a ringspanner ...
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Brake-...MJWgg9jPyNq5NCjdGz-TVFvX7oaFAtNDtrhoClpDw_wcB
 
Thanks. The bleed screw is as in the text of your avatar Dippypud - totally ******. As a last resort I did have a quick go with some molegrips as I have a spare bleed screw, but after they slipped off, looking at how corroded everything was in that area I just decided I'm going to put all new bolts and cylinders and screws in. The brake spanner I have is open ended, but still makes contact with the cylinder body, so can't get the required purchase. The hex part of the screw is right down on the back plate, so as Lowbank suggested, (thanks), the cylinder may be pushing against the inside of the backplate, dragging the screw in deeper from the surface.

After having shiny new pads callipers and discs on the front, the rear brakes will hopefully be good to go later in the week too! Hopefully it will be a bit warmer then as well!

(sorry Dave for briefly hijacking your thread)
 
4bee4bee,
Please let me know if it has bent the back plate when you do it. When I did my friends the new cylinder would not sit flush and it was the back plate that had bent due to the corrosion.
Why do they put ally and steel together, we all know it causes electrolytic corrosion. they reall need anodising, penny pinching.
 
So my lad took a Dremel to the caliper holder.
IMG_0149_zpsxjrixou9.jpg

IMG_0150_zpsfjlr3syy.jpg

Good spray with Bonda then black VHT.
Next issue is the bleed nipple on the caliper. Can't get it open to bleed the brakes to eject the piston. Might nip out and get an 11mm 6-sided socket.
 
Local motor factor has very little in it, but did have a 1/2" drive 11mm 6 sided socket. What are the chances?
Worked a treat. Nipples out gents :)
Caliper back and nipple closed on but absoluteley no resistance when I pump the pedal. I have opened the nipple and left it for a couple of coffees to let gravity take its course.
 
have look at teng tools socket set, 1/4 drive on ebay. they are all 6 sided. I have had my 3/8 drive set for 20 years by teng and not broken a socket yet. ratchet went about 5 years ago so bought a snap on one. Honest they are a god send. full set of 1/4 drive is £37 and 3/8 probably £65 ish.
image.png
 
At last. Caliper all apart. 5 minutes with the Dremel and it was starting to look great.
Clean it up tomorrow and get it primered, painted and re-sealed/rebuilt over the weekend.
Then, finally, back together!
 
Alibro said:
This wee set is pretty good, although I would wait for a sale to buy it usually around £30. Only issue is the ratchet is weak but the rest of the kit is very good. And you can buy repair kits for the ratchet.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...d-professional-27-piece-metric-socket-set-1-4
Click to expand...
I have a version of this set - it's very neat and handy.

Cons:
1. The socket sizes aren't printed on the tray.
2. The sockets, etc. aren't held in the tray, so if you knock it over they go EVERYWHERE.

Alibro, where did you find the repair kit?
 
guineafowl21 said:
I have a version of this set - it's very neat and handy.

Cons:
1. The socket sizes aren't printed on the tray.
2. The sockets, etc. aren't held in the tray, so if you knock it over they go EVERYWHERE.

Alibro, where did you find the repair kit?
Click to expand...
Halfords have them, but they may have to order it in.
 
Mixture. Here is how I'll do the second one:
  • Use the car's hydraulics to push out the piston
  • Go over the caliper with a ball pein hammer to remove the scale
  • Wire brush all over
  • Deox-C bath (3 days)
  • Dremel to get the remaining bits. Hammer as necessary.
  • Another days in soak to get the remaining surface rust off.
  • Done
I found that using a hammer and screwdriver you could shatter the scale off like plaque.
Caliper is in for a final 24 hour soak prior to primering.
It's been slow but I'm amazed how nice it is coming up. Those Dremels are tough little buggers.
 
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