DaisyDriver
Member
- Posts
- 87
- Location
- Canberra
After months of Daisy (D2 TD5) throwing wobblies and randomly breaking down and being an absolute s0d to restart, I have finally fixed the problem. I took the very long way round the issue and learned a few lessons:
- It's probably not the fuel pump, it's the most expensive part and a job to change because you have to strip out a lot of trim from the boot to get at it.
- Sensors - all the sensors involved will revert to a default setting if they fail (which won't kill the engine), apart from the crankcase sensor and if that fails the engine will not start AT ALL. If the engine continues to cut out, it's probably not a sensor.
- The ECU plug and EGR valve may well be contaminated with oil but if you clean them and the fault comes back, it's not that.
- If the injector harness is oil contaminated you will lose a cylinder under load but a Ferranti reset (switch it off and back on again) will instantly get the engine running. If you have to churn the engine for ages, it is not that.
- If the turbo works at all you can rule that out. I wasted weeks spraying WD40 on the wastegate and convincing myself it made a difference.
- The turbo modulator gets a fair bit of attention (probably because it is easy to replace), once again, if the turbo works at all you can probably rule that out.
- There is a lot of discussion about rising oil levels on the dipstick and a smell of diesel proving that fuel is getting past the seals and into the sump. My oil level didn't move up until about a week before I got busy with the spanners and there was no diesel smell.
- That leaves the injector seals. The job is reasonably straightforward. I used Discovery2.co.uk my Haynes Manual and the factory manual. There are 2 special tools needed; one to lock the cam pulley which you can improvise from a drill bit and one to extract the injectors for which I would advise stump up the coins and get one. The only addition I can make is that the tappet lock nuts are 1/2"(!)
Finally...
About 2 years ago I had got it into my head that Daisy was getting a bit 'wheezy' and could no longer achieve her designed top speed. I put that down to her age and mileage and since it was well above the speed limit I didn't investigate further but that should have been a warning (this happened long before the engine began cutting out). With hindsight I would change the injector seals every 100,000 miles/160,000 km.
On the bright side...
All fixed. No damage done.
- It's probably not the fuel pump, it's the most expensive part and a job to change because you have to strip out a lot of trim from the boot to get at it.
- Sensors - all the sensors involved will revert to a default setting if they fail (which won't kill the engine), apart from the crankcase sensor and if that fails the engine will not start AT ALL. If the engine continues to cut out, it's probably not a sensor.
- The ECU plug and EGR valve may well be contaminated with oil but if you clean them and the fault comes back, it's not that.
- If the injector harness is oil contaminated you will lose a cylinder under load but a Ferranti reset (switch it off and back on again) will instantly get the engine running. If you have to churn the engine for ages, it is not that.
- If the turbo works at all you can rule that out. I wasted weeks spraying WD40 on the wastegate and convincing myself it made a difference.
- The turbo modulator gets a fair bit of attention (probably because it is easy to replace), once again, if the turbo works at all you can probably rule that out.
- There is a lot of discussion about rising oil levels on the dipstick and a smell of diesel proving that fuel is getting past the seals and into the sump. My oil level didn't move up until about a week before I got busy with the spanners and there was no diesel smell.
- That leaves the injector seals. The job is reasonably straightforward. I used Discovery2.co.uk my Haynes Manual and the factory manual. There are 2 special tools needed; one to lock the cam pulley which you can improvise from a drill bit and one to extract the injectors for which I would advise stump up the coins and get one. The only addition I can make is that the tappet lock nuts are 1/2"(!)
Finally...
About 2 years ago I had got it into my head that Daisy was getting a bit 'wheezy' and could no longer achieve her designed top speed. I put that down to her age and mileage and since it was well above the speed limit I didn't investigate further but that should have been a warning (this happened long before the engine began cutting out). With hindsight I would change the injector seals every 100,000 miles/160,000 km.
On the bright side...
All fixed. No damage done.
Last edited: