D1 Advice needed :)

Hi,

so I've recently bought myself a 1995 D1 300tdi and the brakes are CRAP! (may as well use an anchor lol)

now I know that the standard solid set-up is good, but in Malta its constantly around 35 deg, and I keep getting fade when towing. so I've looked at getting a 110 vented set-up.

another thing I've noticed is that the swivel bearing is leaking, so that needs doing also.

Would it be wise to do anything else to the axle while I'm there? like bearings, track rod ends, really am open to Any suggestions as I'm looking to make the disco 100% again!

thanks in advance for any advice!

Hi Maltaman (don't know your first name), if you want to bring your Disco back to top condition re brakes, you need to consider doing the following:

1. Remove all original calipers and discos and replace with new;

2. Replace all the old brake fluid;

3. Check and if appropriate replace all the flexible and solid brake pipes.


Changing the brake fluid before you spend too much cash might be a good place to start. Just make sure you get ALL THE OLD STUFF OUT.

Good luck

Dave

Hi Dave,

funny that Maltaman is what everyone calls me back at uni anyway, but my name's Ryan

I will be doing the fluid and lines at some point very very soon, however i have no idea on the condition of the calipers hence why i was looking at just upgrading to vented whilst im spending the cash. all i know is that my N/S/R one doesn't seem to be working and that the brakes squeal all the time when driving around unless im braking hard.

Cheers for the advice tho, i'll get started with that

Maybe look at getting a gear box radiator, if exported from UK then it might not,

If sold in malta through a deal it should have one

RJ092 said:

Hi Dave,

funny that Maltaman is what everyone calls me back at uni anyway, but my name's Ryan

I will be doing the fluid and lines at some point very very soon, however i have no idea on the condition of the calipers hence why i was looking at just upgrading to vented whilst im spending the cash. all i know is that my N/S/R one doesn't seem to be working and that the brakes squeal all the time when driving around unless im braking hard.

Cheers for the advice tho, i'll get started with that

Click to expand...

Here's a quick tip that'll save you some money.

All brake calipers on cars eventually start to seize up and cause poor braking, over-heating of the hubs and fast brake pad wear.

If you picture the piston within the caliper, muck and crap get past the outer dust seal and build up until the crud jams the piston. Depending on where it jams, you'll have poor braking and pad wear.

I use the brake pedal to push out the pistons, then I clean out the cylinders and pistons; replace the seals if necessary and rebuild. Then I bled out the whole braking circuit to ensure it's all new fluid.

You'll be amazed at the difference for a couple of hours work and and a few bob on a seal kit.

If you want more details then PM me.

Dave

Worth using Stainless pistons too - not much extra and reduces corrosion probs around the lip.

The Mad Hat Man said:

Worth using Stainless pistons too - not much extra and reduces corrosion probs around the lip.

Click to expand...

You're absolutely right MHM, but up until now all I've done is give the caliper and piston a good clean and reinstall with original seals - so it didn't cost a penny !!!!

Jonnyb1990 said:

Maybe look at getting a gear box radiator, if exported from UK then it might not,

If sold in malta through a deal it should have one

Click to expand...

Mine's a Manual Box so i don't know if it actually can have a cooler. Interesting to find out if it can because obviously it'll extend the box's life!
I'm looking at changing the Transfer box sump plate to one with cooling fins on tho, hopefully it will help!

The Mad Hat Man said:

Worth using Stainless pistons too - not much extra and reduces corrosion probs around the lip.

Click to expand...

I was thinking that after doing some light reading in my extra time, however I'm going to do as Dave suggested and inspect the system/ do the cheaper stuff first, then if i notice the calipers are shot, it's new ones with a stainless kit too! (safety > money I.M.O. )

thebiglad said:

Here's a quick tip that'll save you some money.

All brake calipers on cars eventually start to seize up and cause poor braking, over-heating of the hubs and fast brake pad wear.

If you picture the piston within the caliper, muck and crap get past the outer dust seal and build up until the crud jams the piston. Depending on where it jams, you'll have poor braking and pad wear.

I use the brake pedal to push out the pistons, then I clean out the cylinders and pistons; replace the seals if necessary and rebuild. Then I bled out the whole braking circuit to ensure it's all new fluid.

You'll be amazed at the difference for a couple of hours work and and a few bob on a seal kit.

If you want more details then PM me.

Dave

Click to expand...

Thanks for being such a help Dave! I'm quite handy with the tools as I've been doing all my own stuff to my past cars for the past 6-7 years, however I'll surely send you a PM if i get stuck! haha


This is my very first Land Rover so i'm really just spending 99% of my time reading up and looking for vids and 1% working on it. wish i was as knowledgeable as i were with my Astras! haha