Cooling System

Hi All,
Hope you are all doing well?
Some advice needed for a 99 Td5 Auto?
Cooling System: this has only started in the last week! Whilst driving around (not long distance!) The temperature gauge has hit the RED!! I have pulled over to carry out first aid, checking the relevant culprit I.e. expansion tank (coolant level), all good, good level. Have slowly opened the top to release the pressure and waited for it to cool down, and continued on my way, keeping an eye on the gauge!! No problems. Couple of days driving around no problems!! However, same problem happens again and repeat the process again??
Happens again today! But this time the car slows down! Gauge is slowly creeping up! I also slow down looking for somewhere to pullover, the gauge returned to normal and I head home! No problem!?!
At home I do the same with checks, no seen problems??
I have changed the water pump, old fo new (8 months ago!).
Also at he same time new top hose replaced (the one with the screew bleed).
New Housing-thermostat was changed about 14 months ago.
Any ideas anyone??
Kev

Dodgy temp sender?
Dodgy stat?
I know it was new not long ago but it sounds like it may be opening late.
Dunno if the ECM is slowing the car down cos it's sensed a problem. That's electronix and thus beyond me.

Stanleysteamer said:

Dodgy temp sender?
Dodgy stat?
I know it was new not long ago but it sounds like it may be opening late.
Dunno if the ECM is slowing the car down cos it's sensed a problem. That's electronix and thus beyond me.

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Have checked with Icarsoft (JLR) nothing coming up!!
Car does go into Limp when temp starts going up!

Hi, next time when it happens check the live coolant temp(ECT) with your diag tool and the fuel temperature(FT) reading too while the gauge is high, if the FT is more than 10 -15*C lowerthannthe ECT replace the coolant temp sensor cos that's the problem ... a too high input on that path the ECM reduces the fuelling to protect the engine, that's how it's conceived, if the ECT and FT are both high you have a cooling issue which needs investigation, if the tank's cap is old better fit a new one cos the release valve can be faulty and it mixes up the cooling also the cap must be tightened to maximum to not mix up the system's pressure. Get a good brand or genuine BMW 17111742232 cap cos it's cheaper than genuine LR, dont buy britpart or unbranded aftermarket cos it's more important part than it appears

sierrafery said:

Hi, next time when it happens check the live coolant temp(ECT) with your diag tool and the fuel temperature(FT) reading too while the gauge is high, if the FT is more than 10 -15*C lowerthannthe ECT replace the coolant temp sensor cos that's the problem ... a too high input on that path the ECM reduces the fuelling to protect the engine, that's how it's conceived, if the ECT and FT are both high you have a cooling issue which needs investigation, if the tank's cap is old better fit a new one cos the release valve can be faulty and it mixes up the cooling also the cap must be tightened to maximum to not mix up the system's pressure. Get a good brand or genuine BMW 17111742232 cap cos it's cheaper than genuine LR, dont buy britpart or unbranded aftermarket cos it's more important part than it appears

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Thanks for the replies guys, I will have a look as soon as possible, just a quick one on the 'Cap' that is also new! (Will have a look at receipt to see where from!!) Bought from Land Rover garage near me!

Thanks

Badger688 said:

Thanks for the replies guys, I will have a look as soon as possible, just a quick one on the 'Cap' that is also new! (Will have a look at receipt to see where from!!) Bought from Land Rover garage near me!

Thanks

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Next time before releasing pressure see how hard the top hose is.
Any minor weeps from hose ends etc?

Thanks for your response guys,
All cooling systems checked again over the week by me! The last one being a chemical check done yesterday, and the results came back???
Now need to book an appointment to change the HG and also to check the block

=££££££

Badger688 said:

Thanks for your response guys,
All cooling systems checked again over the week by me! The last one being a chemical check done yesterday, and the results came back???
Now need to book an appointment to change the HG and also to check the block

=££££££

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Ooops.
Can't "like" that.
wot a pain!!

Stanleysteamer said:

Ooops.
Can't "like" that.
wot a pain!!

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I few pennies to pay, but I have always said, the Td5 is aways fixable by you!! If willing to put the time in (and pennies!!).
Would still need to send the block off to be tested! Not able to do it this time, as away for a week and a bit, so I hope when back it is all done

Badger688 said:

I few pennies to pay, but I have always said, the Td5 is aways fixable by you!! If willing to put the time in (and pennies!!).
Would still need to send the block off to be tested! Not able to do it this time, as away for a week and a bit, so I hope when back it is all done

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Are you sure you don't mean "send off the head"?
It appears you can skim it a tiny bit if it needs it.

Stanleysteamer said:

Are you sure you don't mean "send off the head"?
It appears you can skim it a tiny bit if it needs it.

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I'm interested!?!

Badger688 said:

I'm interested!?!

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Search on here. James Martin, a massive contributor in the day and a Landy specialist, particularly on gearboxes, has posted about skimming heads and also about how far out they can be and it not matter as tightening up will pull them back into flatness, if you see what I mean. Sadly he is no longer contributing. But his posts are still there.
Once the head is off get an engineering shop to test the trueness of the head unless you have a suitable good straight edge and a set of feeler gauges.

Stanleysteamer said:

Search on here. James Martin, a massive contributor in the day and a Landy specialist, particularly on gearboxes, has posted about skimming heads and also about how far out they can be and it not matter as tightening up will pull them back into flatness, if you see what I mean. Sadly he is no longer contributing. But his posts are still there.
Once the head is off get an engineering shop to test the trueness of the head unless you have a suitable good straight edge and a set of feeler gauges.

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Will have a look around before I decide what I will do!

Thanks for the advice.

Kev

Hi at one time you could get thicker head gaskets that allowed you to have a head skimmed with the thicker gasket making the head up back to it's correct, position, you need to check out suppliers to see if they have a stock of differing thickness head gasket, I can remember we used to do a ‘Bump Stop’ test after putting a new head gasket in bigger engines, it was two small section of lead on top of the pistons sat directly under the valve heads, we would set the piston all half way down, the install the gasket and put the head on , then pull it down, then rotate the cranks once take of the head, and remove the lead pieces and measure the thickness of the lead, this showed up the clearance between the pistion and valves, if the clearance we too small we would install the next thickness of head gasket

frostythor said:

Hi at one time you could get thicker head gaskets that allowed you to have a head skimmed with the thicker gasket making the head up back to it correct, position, you need to check out suppliers to see if they have a stock of differing thickness head gasket, I can remember we used to do a ‘Bump Stop’ test after putting a new head gasket in bigger engines, it was two small section of lead on top of the pistons sat directly under the valve heads, we would set the piston all half way down, the install the gasket and put the head on , then pull it down, then rotate the cranks once take of the head, and remove the lead pieces and measure the thickness of the lead, this showed up the clearance between the pistion and valves, if the clearance we too small we would install the next thickness of head gasket

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I har there is a garage near you! Romsey!! Backyard garage!

I have tried to ring (last week!).
If not I will speak to the garage I'm dropping the car off before I go off.

Kev

I know a guy who pockets the heads of the pistons.
Mind you he races Landies.

I always used Saunders Motor works Ltd, in Cadnam, on the A336, their website is https://www.saunders-motorworks.co.uk/

I had a fair amount of machining done by them in the past, from heads to full engine regrinds and rebores they didn’t reassemble them, but supplies all the new bit you needed