Coolant pump removal..

Ok Guys,

I have three bolts out of the coolant pump, the third one i just cannot get to.

Removing the crank pulley is not an option due to not having a replacement bolt now a scaff tube to tighten it up again.

I am looking at my Haynes and the rave manual on how to release the rngine from it restarints and lower it to get the last bolt. I see two issues :

1. Removal of the Hydromat requires a special tool LR-12-169

2. The engine tie bolts are to be tightened to 100nm, same as the crank pulley, that i'm not touching for cos i can;t tighten it to 100nm

So, what the solution? give up and pay for it recovered to to the independent guy up the road?

Or is there a way to get this f**kin pump off (who ever said you can swap it out in 4 hours without dropping the engine was incorrect)

Thanks

Take the crank pully off....I could not tighten mine up too 100nm either. Just did it up until the engine span round...Seems ok, it will tighten up on its own every time you start the engine.

As for a new bolt. Ha. ...i just used the old one as it looked in better nick than the new one.

What colour is it? And what engine? Some engines have a fly wheel locating pin hole to lock the crank.

its a friggin black one, lol

its a td4 2001 auto.

One is done I'm gonna px it for a tratter.

Wheel nuts are usually done to about 120nm so what's the problem with engine mount at 100nm. I mean it ain't like we are talking about 1000mm!

crank pulley is 100nm and a few more turns. Been told that I'll not move that without q very long bar.

since mounts are also 100nm, i thought that would pose the same issue.

will the engine move for enough without completely removing the hydromat? I can unbolt it from the engine and drop the engine down.

Just undo the 4 bolts on top of the engine and lower and raise it as needed with a trolly jack....What's the hydro mount? If it the one at the bottom then no need to remove it...I didnt and managed to remove the pump....but if you can get the bolt out it would be easier to remove crank pully......I removed mine using the starter motor method, but it only broke loose with a warm engine.

The landy wheel brace fits on this bolt nicely. .

Thanks for that for that Jedi,

Did you take the bolts out of the lower tie bar, of just the four at on the top?

jedi said:

hydro mount?

Click to expand...

The top engine mount, that thing that looks like a shock adsorber.

I did take them out of the tie bar at the bottom ..but it was stuck to the block anyway. So I needn't bother...I just took the 4 from the top and that gave me enough movement to get the pump out.....but its fiddly and would be easier with the crank shaft pully off.

I might give that a go in the morning. Thanks for that.