Code P6050

These pumps are frozen and cracked. I already have the new ones.

mikkre said:

I don't know the EKA code, and neither does the previous owner. Is there any way to find out?

Click to expand...

If you can open and then start the car without the EKA code it must already have been disabled.
Where are you located?

I don't have Ncom05, my friend does but he is traveling. I have Icarsoft V2 with a p38 partition, I have removed the error code with it, but it is back when I look at it another time. I am now talking about the P0605 code. It also shows P0183 which is the fuel temperature sensor , I have checked that wire line and connector. The new sensor will arrive on 24.4.

I live in Finland, in the city of Jämsä. I have our company website www.verhoilijamestari.fi if you are interested. I don't speak English, I work through Google traslate...

Are there any "additions" to the GEMS ECU or the wiring to it ? Someone may have re-programmed the ROM in it & messed it up ?

Otherwise you probably have two options:
1) replace the ECU & do the sucurity re-learn. Not sure if iCarsoft V2 can do this ?
2) have it re-programmed properly by an ECU expert.

Some "additions" have been made to the wiring in the car by the previous owner, but they are probably related to the locking of the doors, at least the tailgate opens from the outside handle even when the alarm is activated. Triggers an alarm. As for the ECM, I don't know for sure now. I have 2 extra ECM boxes, they came with the car. It is also possible for me to get the BeCM, ECM and ignition key from another car.

You'll be ok with 12 volts on a V8, until winter maybe & unless money is no object. I have a volt meter on my cigar lighter and have to leave the vehicle for long periods and rarely if ever do i see more than 12v at first start up. Your charge voltage is good. I recommend you put the battery on a nice long trickle charge, although long-term the battery may never fully recover Sounds as if your car had known alarm problems...if the alarm is on but no sound then someone disconnected the alarm sounder below the fuse box, but it's less hassle to leave it that way. If the BECM is original you can get the EKA from a friendly LR dealer. Once you get hold of the nano then take the opportunity to disable passive immobilisation and EKA (but maybe they already are) to minimise issues going forward. Excessive use of the key will damage the microswitches in the door locks which will then increase the amount of times the alarm comes on becuase the BECM cannot keep track of when the door is locked/ unlocked. Once you have nano you will be able to check the status of the microswitches IIRC. And then it would good for you to get a replacement key to go with the BECM (not sure it will be cheaper to get a replacement BECM key and lockset, and then you risk a whole load more problmes with second hand kit.

mikkre said:

Some "additions" have been made to the wiring in the car by the previous owner, but they are probably related to the locking of the doors, at least the tailgate opens from the outside handle even when the alarm is activated. Triggers an alarm. As for the ECM, I don't know for sure now. I have 2 extra ECM boxes, they came with the car. It is also possible for me to get the BeCM, ECM and ignition key from another car.

Click to expand...

Check what wiring mods have been done so you know the reason.

If you have spare GEMS ECU, then step-1 is to check if iCarsoft V2 can do the re-learn. If so open the ECU up & look for bodges. If they look standard then try them. No need to replace BECM, etc.

If iCarsoft V2 cannot do it, then you need a Nanocom. Sell the iCarsoft & buy one.

mikkre said:

I don't know the EKA code, and neither does the previous owner. Is there any way to find out?

Click to expand...

American markets all had 1515. No idea where your car came from though. I think there was another default code used in another market (Japan maybe) but I cannot recall that code. Sometimes people write it on top of the BECM or inside yhe fusebox lid under the driver's seat. It comes on a card in the owner's manual.

This is originally from Germany, brought from there used to Finland

mikkre said:

This is originally from Germany, brought from there used to Finland

Click to expand...

If you can start the car without using the FOB to unlock, I wouldn't worry about the EKA code as it must already have been disabled. When you lay hands on a Nanocom you need to disable the immobiliser and sort out the alarm problem which can be due to the failure if the alarm's internal battery if it is the B_BUS type.

The alarm isn't really a problem for me, I've told you about various malfunctions here. The alarm does not sound because there is no alarm siren at all, just an open plug. The light effect is visible.
I saw that a short-circuit has been made around the BeCM, which in the diagram would connect the start and the ignition switch terminal III together. This has yet to be confirmed because it is so cool outside. There is also one wire cut visible.
Charge the battery again, I have now charged it for 12 hours, and in the evening the 24-hour waiting time will be full, so I will read the resting voltage. On the other hand, it may be that the RR car not being used for 3 weeks drops the resting voltage to around 12V even lower if the battery is connected.

mikkre said:

The alarm isn't really a problem for me, I've told you about various malfunctions here. The alarm does not sound because there is no alarm siren at all, just an open plug. The light effect is visible.
I saw that a short-circuit has been made around the BeCM, which in the diagram would connect the start and the ignition switch terminal III together. This has yet to be confirmed because it is so cool outside. There is also one wire cut visible.
Charge the battery again, I have now charged it for 12 hours, and in the evening the 24-hour waiting time will be full, so I will read the resting voltage. On the other hand, it may be that the RR car not being used for 3 weeks drops the resting voltage to around 12V even lower if the battery is connected.

Click to expand...

Three weeks unused may well drop the battery down to 12 volts depending on the condition of the battery. Both my P38's are connected to solar chargers when parked.

I measured the battery voltage: 12.6V, so the battery can be accepted?
If we start from the assumption that the ECM memory is damaged, as indicated by the fault code P0605. Am I right, the memory is one of the two 32 pin microchips under the green and blue protective cover. M27C512-12B3 or M27c1001-12B3.
Is it possible to replace these circuits or one of them from another ECM box and thus get the error code fixed. This is perhaps so that other possible settings would not change.
I have understood that the car's ECM has come from England with the immobilizer removed.
Or is the driving ban just in those circles? Is the idea completely stupid??

I'm not any kind of electrical engineer, nor do i pretend to be, but, i understand you can 'simply' replace the EEPROM if that's the single issue

mikkre said:

I measured the battery voltage: 12.6V, so the battery can be accepted?
If we start from the assumption that the ECM memory is damaged, as indicated by the fault code P0605. Am I right, the memory is one of the two 32 pin microchips under the green and blue protective cover. M27C512-12B3 or M27c1001-12B3.
Is it possible to replace these circuits or one of them from another ECM box and thus get the error code fixed. This is perhaps so that other possible settings would not change.
I have understood that the car's ECM has come from England with the immobilizer removed.
Or is the driving ban just in those circles? Is the idea completely stupid??

Click to expand...

Those part numbers are both for EPROMS. Replacing them is not possible because the new chips would need to have the program code loaded into them and you have neither the code nor the equipment needed to program them.
I think you are chasing rainbows with the BECM.

Datatek said:

Those part numbers are both for EPROMS. Replacing them is not possible because the new chips would need to have the program code loaded into them and you have neither the code nor the equipment needed to program them.
I think you are chasing rainbows with the BECM.

Click to expand...

Not saying you're wrong in the slightest, but asking what's probably a dumb question..
In this instance isn't it used to store the drive cycle data.. ie starts empty then is populated over time?

I explained badly, I didn't put new ones, but similar ones from another ECM box, I have 3 of them, all from the same car..

kermit_rr said:

Not saying you're wrong in the slightest, but asking what's probably a dumb question..
In this instance isn't it used to store the drive cycle data.. ie starts empty then is populated over time?

Click to expand...

No, an EPROM is a Erasable Programmable READ ONLY Memory that is used to hold the program code that controls the device. there is no facility in the BECM to write to these devices that I know of. The window on the top face means that the data they hold can be erased with ultra violet light.

mikkre said:

I explained badly, I didn't put new ones, but similar ones from another ECM box, I have 3 of them, all from the same car..

Click to expand...

Similar ones? You cannot just go around swapping program chips, there are several different firmware levels to my knowledge so you would have to be very sure that you are swapping like for like. Best send the BECM to an expert like @RickthePick and get it repaired or fin a good second hand one with a matching FOB.