clutch probs

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naughtyboy

Active Member
Posts
211
Location
nr leeds wf15
mates clutch went on his l series deisel last week.
had it towed to his neighbours house to get him to do it as ive been away.
got it all out in pces ie ird then g/box etc fitted new clutch ( old one wrecked springs broken up and damaged teeth on flywheel) put it back no bite point pedal all way down to floor you can feel it catching in forward gears and grinds going into reverse.

he got him to by new cyls still no dif.

cant get to it til weds anyone got any ideas pls dont fancy pulling whole lot out?

cheers.
 
very difficult to get in gear you can feel it catching as you get it in .
then youve got about 1mm of movement on pedal before it bites and youre off
 
Try checking the slave cylinder bracket for movement when clutch is used. It's a weak point and there should be almost no give in the bracket.
If it moves much then it's that much less in the release. Replacement is the only fix as the alignment suffers as it weakens and eventually breaks.
 
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but wait, there's more....
it could also be air in the hydraulics, make sure there is no way of sucking air in when bleeding. Easiest way is to run a hose from the bleed nipple to a bottle with some clean brake fluid covering the end of the hose. Also, don't loosen the bleed nipple too much as this will help draw bubbles back in before they get expelled. Keep the reservoir topped up with fresh brake fluid as it pumps down quickly and air will enter faster than fluid.
 
If it's air in the system, it could also be air passing the threads on the bleed nipple when it's slackened off. To overcome this, put a few wraps of PTFE tape around the threads on the bleed nipple..MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT THE PTFE TAPE ON OR AROUND THE CONE END OF THE BLEED SCREW [B
You can leave the tape on the threads, in fact it will prevent them seizing into the cylinder in future.
 
If it's air in the system, it could also be air passing the threads on the bleed nipple when it's slackened off. To overcome this, put a few wraps of PTFE tape around the threads on the bleed nipple..MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT THE PTFE TAPE ON OR AROUND THE CONE END OF THE BLEED SCREW [B
You can leave the tape on the threads, in fact it will prevent them seizing into the cylinder in future.


Excellent point and solution is brilliant.
 
If it's air in the system, it could also be air passing the threads on the bleed nipple when it's slackened off. To overcome this, put a few wraps of PTFE tape around the threads on the bleed nipple..MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT THE PTFE TAPE ON OR AROUND THE CONE END OF THE BLEED SCREW [B
You can leave the tape on the threads, in fact it will prevent them seizing into the cylinder in future.


It's an L series so uses a PG1 gearbox. The the standard hydraulic system is a sealed system with no way to fill or bleed it.
I suspect that the clutch release lever is siezing up so needs lubrication before the cylinders fail.
 
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Not on those, it's a system plastic system with horrid plastic cylinders and piping, it's a nasy cheap thing. They used the same system on the MG ZS too but most MG enthusiasts junk the plastic rubbish for proper metal cylinders and copper pipe that is stronger and bleedable.
This is the unit from eBay
LAND ROVER FREELANDER CLUTCH MASTER / SLAVE CYLINDER NEW 1.8 2.0D LAND ROVER | eBay

Just leaves the bracket then I guess, unless the fork is bending after the initial failure. Hope he greased the fork pivot.:eek:
 
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