chassis/welding

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For a bit of shaping i.e. bottom of chassis rail then yeah 2mm or to be precise 2.2mm mild steel would probably suffice. The side walls preferably should be 3mm though to maintain the structural integrity. It's hardly rocket science is it ??? And I take this advice from my father that has 40yrs of welding experience which includes the welding up of many a landrover chassis in his time, shame he's incapacitated now as he could have done mine for me.

You have to admit though if the chassis is fooked as people say then surely there is nothing to lose by trying and having a go. Whether people argue over 1mm of thickness or not the chassis is still a metal box section and designed to be patched, repaired etc
 
standard factory chassis are 2mm(approx)definatly not 3mm,whats he got to lose by haveing a go at welding it,not every one has the money or time for a full chassis replacement,just please make sure you do something about the chassis no.
 
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Exactly Standard (2mm) , replacement chassis via Richards (3mm) so guessing the galvanising process adds about another 1mm ish.
yeh that galv does go on thick,i prefer to ues 2mm plate,i find it easier to weld to chassis,i find with 3mm i allways seem to burn holes in chassis cos of different thickness,my old 90 had loads of welding all done with 2mm plate and never had any trouble,and believe me i used to drive it hard off road(before some c**t stole it):doh:
 
Whether people argue over 1mm of thickness or not the chassis is still a metal box section and designed to be patched, repaired etc

when there's only a few mm to start with the difference between 2mm and 3 mm is massive in terms of strength

but each to their own eh
 
I'm planning on patching mine with 3mm all round. Mostly side Walls but will be using the same on the underside. Planning on doing it at the weekend, so I'll keep you all posted. I'll try to get piccys too!
 
When I did mine I measured around alot.
My reckoning is the original chassis is 2.4ish on the box sections and 3.5 ish on the reinforced areas such as radius arm mounts etc. (Ish sizes due to plate being imperial sizes).

Thats what I've repaired all of mine with.

Judging by pics - and it does look like it has been plated over previously - I'd say given the size of the holes that there is alot more perforation to find..... Mine was similar maybe a bit better and I've welded something like 60 plates on to eradicate all the rusted areas. Not fun - but good practice! So far about 1.5sq m of plate used up!

Wouldn't like to be paying someone else to do it.
 
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