Changing Propshafts

Just finished refurbing both propshafts.
Hope this is understood.
Ready to fit.
Noticed one of them was out of line knucles at either end were not in line with each other, so slid it off the spline and put it back in line.
When i looked at the props that are fitted now the front is the same knuckles are out of line. and the back is in line.
Is this correct ? should the front be set different??
Thanks

sounds right ,rear is in phase front out of because of angle

jamesmartin said:

sounds right ,rear is in phase front out of because of angle

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Thanks Again Mate.
Should I put the front back to where it was before I fit them??

back in line ,front 45 degrees out

jamesmartin said:

back in line ,front 45 degrees out

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Cheers Mate.

Was going to change props tonight but still have very slow drip coming through the hand brake drum where rear prop attaches.
Think Im going to need a new seal in transfer box before I start props.

Knowing my luck I will have it all apart with just the seal then find out the flange is worn.
Is ther a full kit available??

google stc3433 but rear flange is rarely grooved front nearly allways is

jamesmartin said:

google stc3433 but rear flange is rarely grooved front nearly allways is

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Thanks James.
Not to expensive either.
Is it a hard / long job? might get a price from garage to do it.

As an amateur, I've not found it too hard to extract the old one and gently tap a new one in with the gearbox in situ. Just get the handbrake gubbins out of the way and all will be clear.

Brown said:

As an amateur, I've not found it too hard to extract the old one and gently tap a new one in with the gearbox in situ. Just get the handbrake gubbins out of the way and all will be clear.

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Not really got any decent tools, and only working in the back street.
Going to get a price on new clutch so might ask about this too.

Been looking at guides to change propshaft.
Seems easy enough but could not get a spanner on the bolts that come from the brake drum to rear prop.
I know there is a propshaft removal tool but some people use spanners or sockets.
On Busters guide on photos there seems to be enough room to fit a 9/16 spanner, cant get anythiong to fit on mine.
What am I Doing Wrong???

border said:

Not really got any decent tools, and only working in the back street.
Going to get a price on new clutch so might ask about this too.

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Re clutch and shafts
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/defender-gearbox-removal-clutch-replacement-pics-136171.html

I did my clutch out in the open during snow using this help and some other stuff. By myself, nobody to help. Took out seatbox, made a saddle support for gear box, pushed back about 7 inches to play in and make sure to change clutch release lever for a reinforced one. If I can find saddle I will post pic, gear box is not flat so you have o make up your own bit and I sat my home made one on a 3 wheel platform.

punkawallah said:

Re clutch and shafts
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/defender-gearbox-removal-clutch-replacement-pics-136171.html

I did my clutch out in the open during snow using this help and some other stuff. By myself, nobody to help. Took out seatbox, made a saddle support for gear box, pushed back about 7 inches to play in and make sure to change clutch release lever for a reinforced one. If I can find saddle I will post pic, gear box is not flat so you have o make up your own bit and I sat my home made one on a 3 wheel platform.

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Think I will leave it for the profesionals Mate. I would not dare tackle somthing that big.
Well done on yours though Great Job you done there,

I normally put the defender in neutral and very slowly either move forward or backward in small increments until the propshaft spider moves into a position where I can remove the nuts. Normally in a good position I can remove 2-3 nuts at one go before I might have to move a bit more. And I do this using a standard 9/16 spanner. Everyone has his own method I guess. It just takes patience and technique.

Chock the wheels of the axle you're NOT working on then jack one of the wheels off the ground on the axle you ARE working on and turn the prop by hand to get to the various nuts/bolts. I also unscrew the grease nipples from the spiders as it gives a tad more room for the bolts nearest. 9/16" spanners and plenty of patience. Front prop is supposed to be 45 degrees out of phase.

Thanks. Got to them by moving the prop.
Right Got the back prop replaced BUT, thers always a but with me.
Got all bolts in and lined up., tightened them evenly but one of the bolts on the hanbrake drum side seemed Slightly out of line. The nut would not tighten up, only went half way so techcnicaly its only held by 3 bolts on that side.
Cant do anything till tomorrow, will it be OK to give it a test run?? all other bolts are tightened right up??
Thanks

3 nuts will hold ok

jamesmartin said:

3 nuts will hold ok

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Thanks James. think I need a seal in that side anyway so can sort it out then.