Changing 200TDi Timing chain probs.

also hand file the bolts so they have a head on and spanner out may work.they get hot so personally i would bench the engine.

ffs Bob!
If yu can remove a 200TDi injun on yo own, without a hoist; and file bolts that have sheared with a socket on the head, and then undo them, then yu are welcome to come up here and help

Will try a blowtorch on the bolt that is protruding, and maybe a stud extractor (see post #10) then will have to try and lever it orf. Cant see any other way, at the mo.

Blowtorch should have enough heat,

Can you get a small pair of good quality stilsons on the stud ?

gas powered blow torch and mole grips wouldnt touch it.

Maybe drill the case (small bit) , in line with the stud then get some plus gas to it .

would there be enough bolt to die and then slide ovev case and treat it as a stud?

ya know leave it in.use a nut to refit.

If I understand it correctly, the long pump bolts invariably shear off. So grind them off and the pump and cover will slide off. Then use the stud extractors, (item b) are good because they give you good purchase. About £18 I think. A bit of heat may help as well. When you refit the new bolts, use copperease on the threads.
The Bergen timing kit is only £48.50 delivered.

It is not the long bolts, It is the stud and the bolt to its right. Here are afew pics.

PS - its the Bergen kit I bought .

aaah i see.

pain them.wish peeps woud copper slip stuff...

well done.

The timing case front cover should slide over the stud and therefore the sheared bolt also. You will probably need to tap the cover with a copper/hide mallet to free it. The stud stays in to help locate the cover on re-assembly.

that is, of course, what I am hoping...... however I cannt go any further until I get the damper pulley and locking kit in a day or so.

The Mad Hat Man said:

Looking at stud extractors.....

Anyone got personal experience of the "best" type - ie most successful?

a)

b)

c)

Click to expand...

The order that they are best in is A,B,C. I have B and C if you wanna borrow em? I can post em to you if needs be.

I've had 'A' for years, it's always got me outta spot.

Anyways..regards the sheared and flush bolts, if access allows, could you not try an Eazi-out. A decent cordless would put the hole down the middle for ya. If that don't work then drill out the same diameter as the bolt and re-tap.
I do sympathise with ya..it's dead easy to post this stuff, but......

Irwin easyouts have got me out of bovva!!

Yu mite also have noticed a few cover holes with no bolts in.... I havent removed any! Why cant peeps just do the job propper? I assume it must have been like this for the last 60K miles

The Mad Hat Man said:

Yu mite also have noticed a few cover holes with no bolts in.... I havent removed any! Why cant peeps just do the job propper? I assume it must have been like this for the last 60K miles

Click to expand...

agreed.good slap of slip on the bolts.all holes tapped out first to clean only takes 10 mins yet still peeps persist in ****in up stuff.all the landys i have sold on still live and two guys have even contacted me months later saying how pleased they were to find greased bolts on refit.

new motto

LZ do it right or **** off.

gR@HaM said:

Irwin easyouts have got me out of bovva!!

Click to expand...

Doe Irwin know? pickies/links?

Just as a point of interest....
If anyone wants to make a damper extractor. The holes in it are 75mm centre to centre, and the two bolts are hi-tensile M8 coarse thread bolts. Instead of a central bolt a socket over the pulley bolt will give a flat surface to push against without damaging the crank pulley bolt.

(Thanks to LRO)