Central locking - one word answer required please!

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NorthernEngine

New Member
Posts
27
Location
Inverness, Highlands
Hi folks,
Sorry to bring this issue up again, but Im hoping this will be the end of it!
My 300tdi central locking doesnt work, and Iv been told many times that if I run a 12v wire direct to the drivers door actuator, I can make it lock off the key. Im not at all interested in having the fob or alarm working - I doubt they do anyway.
My question is... WHICH WIRE OF THE 5 DO I CONNECT THE 12V SUPPLY TO?
I have a diagram but dont seem able to add it here, so;
I have Orange, Yellow, Pink or Black, plus, on the actuator side only, a Brown & Pink wire.
I think I broke the last actuator with trail and error wiring, hence the post - again sorry if its been asked a thousand times before.
So - one word answer - which colour wire?
Thanks!
 
Knowing your vehicles model year would be handy.

If u have the early system fitted, then the 12v is or should be already there and switched by a micro switch.
The later system actuator is supplied with an 'alternate' pulsed 12 volts by the ECU, one to lock the other to unlock, also with a permanent 12v for the slaves.
 
Whoops - I thought all 300tdis had the same system. Mine is a 1995 5 door.
Think there is a microswitch in the door, but I'll go check.
Thanks!

The 1995MY discos have the earlier 200s system lock and unlock with the key, remotes which had a single were an option. So u may be in luck with with only a fuse missing, although with this system along with the micro switch within the door u still have an ECU, and also I believe a standalone relay behind the glove box give the lock/unlock pulse :)

The 1996MY has a slightly more advanced system, but the principal is the same.
 
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Not a fuse sadly - they are all present and correct.
And I didnt get a fob when I bought it... though but much later I found one dropped down inside the centre console that may or may not be for my Landy! I put fresh battery in it and it lights up, but no locking / unlocking unfortunately.
So which colour wire takes the 12v pulse to / from the actuator? It sounds very much like thats the one I want to tap in to.
 
Don't know , but if its a 4 wire system it's easy to check, two wires to the slaves one to ground the remaining is the 12v supply. If you have a 5 wire system then that one is permanent 12v :)
What has me foxed is that its 5 wires on the actuator side, but only 4 wires on the door side. The actuator looks identical to the one I replaced, and the connectors match.
Anyhoo, I'll off out with the multimeter....
 
Aha! This is progress.
So I most likely have an earlier type 4 wire system, but with a later 5 wire actuator. Could this be the root of my problem?
Probably clutching at straws mind, most likely the ECU is goosed - Id still like to make the permanenet 12v thing work.
 
My old RR just had a 4wire master actuator, 2 to the slaves ,1 to earth plus the 12v pulsed by the micro switch within the master actuator just to supply the slaves, a very simple system an it works ok, it's when u have remote locking/alarm u need the 5 wire master actuator.
 
My old RR just had a 4wire master actuator, 2 to the slaves ,1 to earth plus the 12v pulsed by the micro switch within the master actuator just to supply the slaves, a very simple system an it works ok, it's when u have remote locking/alarm u need the 5 wire master actuator.

Well Iv spliced into all wires, found the earth, the slave wires and the 12v... but no further forward. Im wondering if its just the microswitch that is knackered. In addition, my rear electric windows do now not work either! *Sigh*

Looks like Im sticking with manual locking then...
 
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