Buying a 2.5 V6i petrol.

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Muskett

Member
Posts
62
Location
East Sussex
Its cheap less than £3000, 40,000 miles and crisp. Its an auto because I have a back problem and using a clutch is a pain in the butt literally. The 3 door motor main use will be summer cross country on all terrain tyres. Less than 5k on the road (I have another car for motorways).

I have driven a few TD4's and they are slugs; so am I completely mad to even consider Petrol. Will the petrol give me some oooph for the steep hills where I live or do I live with diesel snail pace. It might have to pull a trailer as well (Not overly heavy one).

I've had wallet fatigue from two P38's in the last few years and am a Waranty Direct believer as even if the policy costs a bomb it costs them a heck of a lot more. Petrol blown gaskets or 1.8 reliability?????

I do the deal Tuesday. Many thanks; hi all.
 
Its cheap less than £3000, 40,000 miles and crisp. Its an auto because I have a back problem and using a clutch is a pain in the butt literally. The 3 door motor main use will be summer cross country on all terrain tyres. Less than 5k on the road (I have another car for motorways).

I have driven a few TD4's and they are slugs; so am I completely mad to even consider Petrol. Will the petrol give me some oooph for the steep hills where I live or do I live with diesel snail pace. It might have to pull a trailer as well (Not overly heavy one).

I've had wallet fatigue from two P38's in the last few years and am a Waranty Direct believer as even if the policy costs a bomb it costs them a heck of a lot more. Petrol blown gaskets or 1.8 reliability?????

I do the deal Tuesday. Many thanks; hi all.


FFS have you not read the posts in the gaylander section. Petrol gaylanders are as reliable as thatchers promises were!! but more expensive.
 
The v6 is a nice motor to drive. I've got one. 0 to 60mph in 10 seconds. The auto is good and smooth. They’re cheap to buy due to fuel consumption. I get 18mpg normal driving and 28mpg at a steady 60mph on motorways.

Power up hills is no problem for the v6. The auto box is intelligent. It won’t up shift gong down hill and will stay in gear when accelerating harder than normal, to allow a faster response. A sport mode allows this to happen most the time.

Having had P38’s, you’ll like the v6 Freelander. Other P38 owners I’ve known have liked them. Also many on the web have confirmed they like them too. Obviously you need to have a drive in one yourself to see what you think.
 
Poof, that is exactly what my good friends say about Freelanders period. But I can't afford an auto Defender. It will be used as a lamping truck on pasture so I'm never going to be seen in public with it. No need to mud plug either.

I once had a Panda 4x4 years ago that did the job (down hill anyway).

Will a diesel give enough power attached to an auto box on steepish gradients?
 
Yep. The diesel auto is ok. 0 to 60mph in 14 seconds. Not as lively on acceleration etc as the v6, but still more powerful.

A diesel auto 5 door with electrics and air con is the most sought after model. Not necessarily the most popular on the road. The td4 manual and td4 auto hold their prices better, as they’re cheaper to run than the 1.8 and v6 petrol’s.
 
Hippo, thanks for the info. I'm going for the 3 door as the vehicle has a dual purpose. Its for use when I don't want to damage my other car. One of the reasons for my back is military Defenders.

My budget is 31/2 k which has to include all terrain tyres; so its no racing car. Would I be better off with the diesel or ooph of the petrol? If I break it or role it then its salvaged and the rest binned. If it lasts five years then I'm laughing.
 
If your using it off road, make sure it’s got traction control. That way it will have 4 wheel independent (abs) breaking on spinning wheels.

Diesel auto will return 35mpg. Petrol is faster, but diesel is just as good unless you want to thrash it. An auto is definitely the better option, as is a more comfortable drive in a heavy car. Auto makes up for not having a low range off road too.

Prices are coming down due to the credit crunch and new road tax charges. Also watch out for the engine co2 emissions v road tax in the future.

It’s all down to personal choice. The diesel will do nearly twice the mpg of the v6. They can both competently tow a caravan. Both will easily cruse at 70mph. The advantage of the diesel is cheaper motoring per mile. The advantage of the v6 is taking out corsa drivers at the lights.

The other day my hippo was being slated by a lad at work. Knows even less about cars than I do. Without notice, I pulled away at a junction. Up to 40 in second, then 70 in third. Moments before he’d been telling me to get it chipped. Not needed. Obviously driving like this even on legal (ish) safe roads isn’t a perfect idea, and it will kill a car sooner due to wear and tear.

I never chose the engine in mine. I inherited it when my dad snuffed it.
 
Traction Control; the yellow thingey on the gear lever?? I haven't driven a Freelander in a while. That was an extra? More research I think over the weekend.

I'll look at the one on Tuesday as there are not many auto's about in the 3 door, and cheap. No traction c , no buy. Then it will be a diesel with T/C and auto box 3door. Might be difficult to find and I want it in green.

Off to bed now.
 
The yellow switch on the gear stick is Hill Decent Control. On the auto this is a yellow switch just behind the gear selector.

HDC was an option, but also standard on the higher models. Something most the later models had anyway. When in either first (1 on auto’s) or reverse gear, and you select HDC, the vehicle will use the abs to slow itself down, when ever you take you foot off the accelerator pedal. This is ideal for down hill descents where you’d use first low ration on your P38.

HDC hill decent control, ABS anti lock breaking system – 4 wheel independent, ETC electronic traction control and EBD electronic break force distribution all became standard on UK models 2001 onwards. The reason I mentioned this is it’s not always an option on over seas markets.

Recently I went down a frozen snow covered 150m slope at 15 degrees. 2 inches of snow. Put my auto in to first, selected HDC and went down. Took my foot off the accelerator and the ABS kicked in under orders from the HDC. Result was the car slowed down with several abs pulses. Then it continued on it’s own for 1 or 2 seconds then pulsed the abs once. Same thing happened 1 or 2 seconds later, then continued to the bottom with out ABS, even though HDC was still selected and available if it wanted it.

Even though the Freelander has the option to do the above, it’s never a cure for bad driving, or taking risks. Common sense and all that!

Taken from the Rave Disk:

Hill descent control

This feature allows the vehicle speed to be controlled during a hill descent using the vehicle brakes. This feature has to be selected using the Hill descent switch with the selected gear being 'first' or 'reverse' and the brakes below 35C. When HDC is selected by operating the latching HDC switch the green LED is illuminated continuously to indicate HDC is available. If conditions are not met to enable HDC operation, after the switch is operated the green LED flashes. When going downhill and HDC is selected the vehicle will maintain a target speed of approximately 7k/ph by applying the brakes if the throttle pedal is not depressed. When the throttle pedal is depressed the target speed will be relative to the throttle pedal position and the vehicle will go down faster at the new target speed. If the slope is not steep enough and the speed is less than the target speed, the vehicle will not accelerate to
reach the target speed. The HDC function is brakes intervention only. There are 2 LED's in the
instrument pack for the HDC function. There is a green LED, which indicates the status of the
HDC function and an amber LED which, indicates HDC system fault when illuminated fully.

Minimum target speeds with the throttle closed are 6 mph (9.6 km/h) in first gear and 4 mph (6.5 km/h) in reverse gear. The first gear target speed is decreased to 4.4 mph (7 km/h) if rough terrain or sharp bends (detected from ABS sensor inputs) are encountered while already traveling at the minimum target speed. Minimum target speeds are increased at cold idle to prevent conflict between the brakes and the engine caused by HDC trying to impose a lower vehicle speed than is normal for the increased engine speeds at cold idle. Minimum target speeds at cold idle are 7.5 mph (12 km/h) in first gear and 4.4 mph (7 km/h) in reverse gear.

During active braking, the brakes are operated in axle pairs on one or both axles. The braking effort is distributed between the front and rear axles as necessary to maintain vehicle stability. Distribution of the braking effort is dependant on direction of travel and braking effort being applied. To prevent wheel lock, anti-lock braking is also enabled during active braking.

The ABS ECU incorporates a fade out strategy that, if a fault occurs or HDC is deselected during active braking, provides a safe transition from active braking to brakes off. The fade out strategy increases the target speed at a low constant acceleration rate, independent of actual throttle position. If active braking is in operation, this causes the braking effort to be gradually reduced and then discontinued. The HDC information warning lamp flashes while fade out is in progress.

If the clutch is disengaged during active braking, the HDC information warning lamp flashes after a delay of 3 seconds. After 60 seconds, if the clutch is still disengaged, the HDC fault warning lamp flashes and active braking operation fades out. Freelander 2001 MY

To prevent the brakes overheating, the ABS ECU monitors the amount of active braking employed and, from this, calculates brake temperature. If the ABS ECU determines brake temperature has exceeded a preset limit, it extinguishes the HDC information warning lamp and flashes the HDC fault warning lamp to indicate that HDC should be deselected. If active braking continues and the ABS ECU determines that brake temperature has increased a further 50 C, it fades out active braking and disables HDC. After fade out, the HDC fault warning lamp continues to flash, while HDC is selected, until the ABS ECU calculates brake temperature to be at an acceptable level. This calculation continues even if the ignition is turned off, so turning the ignition off and back on will not reduce the disabled time. When the ABS ECU calculates the brake temperature to be acceptable, it extinguishes the HDC fault warning lamp and illuminates the HDC information warning lamp to indicate HDC is available again. The disabled time is dependant on vehicle speed; typical times at constant vehicle speeds are as follows:

Disabling of hill descent control and traction control after prolonged use
If the traction control or HDC has been active for a long time, the foundation brakes can get very hot and damage may occur to the brake components compromising braking efficiency. For this reason there is an ABS function which inhibits excessive use of traction control and hill descent control. The way this function works is that the ABS ECU calculates the temperature of the brakes using internal algorithms. If the first temperature threshold (35C) is reached then the amber TC LED and the amber HDC fault LED will start to flash. The green HDC LED will extinguish A flashing LED warns the driver that the brakes are getting hot (during this period the TC and HDC function is still available). If the second temperature threshold (40C) is reached then the LED's continue to flash but the functionality is disabled for both TC and HDC. If HDC is operating at the time then the functionality fades out gradually when 40C is reached. Vehicle functionality will return to normal after the brakes have cooled down to below 30C.

Some video's of what a Freelander can do in my signature.
 
I believe the td4 has similar torque figures to the kv6. Beware on yo budget - mine cost me 6k in 12 months to keep it on the road. Have yu budgeted that in - and that was with warranty direct. They wont include consumables like oil, antifreeze, thermostat housings or pipes. Head skimming or crack checking isnt part of an HGF fix - thats extra.

Basically if yu want to use it off road and not want to look at it on ramps. Get a doozil.
Yu have been warned!
 
Just to voice my experiances... as i've driven a V6 Petrol (Auto), Xdi (Rover Diesel) Manual, TD4 (BMW Diesel) Manual and own a TD4 Auto Sport

A FreeLander with Traction Control and Automatic makes a fool out of a manual freeLander - it really is worlds apart. The effective differential locking of the traction control prevents it digging itself a great big hole - but without the ability to feather the power through the automatic you can overshoot the TC's abilities really quickly and still dig yourself a great big hole.

The V6 was fun to drive, on-road, simply because it accelerates so well. Having not owned one reliability wasn't my problem. That said off-road I can quickly imagine its peak torque (notably lower the the Diesel) being so much higher up the rev-range, causing a problem.

We've since remapped our TD4 Auto Diesel, which means its now putting out 320Nm as apposed to 260Nm stock (Petrol does 240Nm) - and its a lovely drive. I know i'm biased as its my car - but - I think I could argue its the best choice of FreeLander going.
 
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Its cheap less than £3000, 40,000 miles and crisp. Its an auto because I have a back problem and using a clutch is a pain in the butt literally. The 3 door motor main use will be summer cross country on all terrain tyres. Less than 5k on the road (I have another car for motorways).

I have driven a few TD4's and they are slugs; so am I completely mad to even consider Petrol. Will the petrol give me some oooph for the steep hills where I live or do I live with diesel snail pace. It might have to pull a trailer as well (Not overly heavy one).

I've had wallet fatigue from two P38's in the last few years and am a Waranty Direct believer as even if the policy costs a bomb it costs them a heck of a lot more. Petrol blown gaskets or 1.8 reliability?????

I do the deal Tuesday. Many thanks; hi all.

My son has owned a V6 for nearly 5 years, only trouble so far is a u/s sun roof and the odd time when the sat nav switches itself off. The car is much, much quicker and much quieter than my TD4.
Fuel consumption varies widely with the type of journey and speed driven, we record accurately and have had figures from 17 to 31mpg, but generally think 24/25.
Only buy one if it has a perfect history and warranty from an outfit you can trust. Watch the coolant level constantly in the hope of catching a leak before expensive damage.
Good luck with it.
 
Thank you all for your advice. Advice taken my problem will be to find a TD4 with autobox (for my back); a 3 door for the shooting platform; met green (because all my cars have been that colour) and in my price range for something that I might break. The Petrol will have to have the best paperwork and condition and price to tempt me now.

Its got to get me to near my pigeon hide, lamping the fields margins to keep the rabbit population under control, pick up deer carcases from woodland vehicle tracks and pull a trailer to move some tools and wood about.

With the right tyres, semsible driving approach the Freelander should be up to it. If conditions and mud too much I have friends with vehicles that can do it better, Hagland, Defenders, Argoes and quods. For easy going groomed fields the Freelander will save my back and should be cheap enough.

Another Land Rover adventure; the adventure being keeping them on the road not on the service ramp.
 
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In truth an old disco was what I was advised to get. Might still do, just wanted something smaller, more refined and less of a tractor. But its probabvly the tractor I will end up with.
 
A disco isnt bad - maybe not quite so refined as a Gaylander - but compared with a Defender ( A proppa tratta) it has carpets, designed to have a radio, a heater that works (possibly Air con) and is immeasurably easier to work on and comparatively bullet proof compared to a Hippoo.

Drive one and see.
 
Drove a Disco old truck for six months over four years which is the time my two P38's were in the garage. It was a manual, very early one and welled together so nothing refined like one I might end up buying. An auto Disco might well be the answer but I've never liked them much, though don't really have a good reason wgy not.
 
Not sure if it's been said, but any K series, V6 or 1.8, BEWARE head gaskets going. Common and expensive!

I've a Td4 5-door auto, and it's a good motor. BMW do engines well it seems! :rolleyes:

Not that sluggish either.

Oscar
 
I'll look at the Freelander 2.5 petrol and see how it goes. If in superb condition I might chance it but any hint of something odd will decline. I'm commited to test drive it anyway. Budget wise it is cheap compared to what I could get alterrnatives: TD4's or Disco. I realy don't want to up my budget and it will be a third car. Taking everyones advice then it should really be a TD4 but finding a hard top auto might be tricky and would be another grand. We will have to see.
 
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