Bleeding Nipples - is there a gizmo

OK - dumb question to start the weekend:

Got to bleed the brake system this weekend (1990 110 with rear drums) and
I've noticed that the front calliper brake nipple is conveniently hidden
between two bolt heads (just to make it impossible to get any sort of swing
on a spanner). Is there any sort of gizmo that enables you to open and
close the nipple while still keeping the tube on it? The only other thing I
can think of is a socket and pump pliers with the tube coming out of the
hole in the back of the socket, or failing that can you put a longer nipple
on it, and if so what is the thread?
--
MTIA

Bob Miller
1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83
1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17

"Bob Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK - dumb question to start the weekend:
>
> Got to bleed the brake system this weekend (1990 110 with rear drums) and
> I've noticed that the front calliper brake nipple is conveniently hidden
> between two bolt heads (just to make it impossible to get any sort of
swing
> on a spanner). Is there any sort of gizmo that enables you to open and
> close the nipple while still keeping the tube on it? The only other thing
I
> can think of is a socket and pump pliers with the tube coming out of the
> hole in the back of the socket, or failing that can you put a longer
nipple
> on it, and if so what is the thread?
> --
> MTIA
>
> Bob Miller
> 1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83
> 1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17

'Spose a ring spanner won't fit?
TonyB
>
>

> > Got to bleed the brake system this weekend (1990 110 with rear drums)
and
> > I've noticed that the front calliper brake nipple is conveniently hidden
> > between two bolt heads (just to make it impossible to get any sort of
> swing
> > on a spanner).

>
> 'Spose a ring spanner won't fit?
> TonyB
> >

You'd probably get one on but only 12th of a turn at a time - not ideal for
opening and closing the amount that you need for bleeding, or am I being
pessimistic?
--
Bob Miller
1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83
1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17

Bob Miller wrote:
>>> Got to bleed the brake system this weekend (1990 110 with rear drums)
> and
>>> I've noticed that the front calliper brake nipple is conveniently hidden
>>> between two bolt heads (just to make it impossible to get any sort of
>> swing
>>> on a spanner).
>
>> 'Spose a ring spanner won't fit?
>> TonyB
>
> You'd probably get one on but only 12th of a turn at a time - not ideal for
> opening and closing the amount that you need for bleeding, or am I being
> pessimistic?

I don't think you need a lot of slackening to bleed off, once you've
cracked the seal.

If you can fit them, longer bleed nipples do exist.

Steve

Ouch !! are you sure you are in the right NG

--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

"Bob Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK - dumb question to start the weekend:
>
> Got to bleed the brake system this weekend (1990 110 with rear drums) and
> I've noticed that the front calliper brake nipple is conveniently hidden
> between two bolt heads (just to make it impossible to get any sort of
> swing
> on a spanner). Is there any sort of gizmo that enables you to open and
> close the nipple while still keeping the tube on it? The only other thing
> I
> can think of is a socket and pump pliers with the tube coming out of the
> hole in the back of the socket, or failing that can you put a longer
> nipple
> on it, and if so what is the thread?
> --
> MTIA
>
> Bob Miller
> 1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83
> 1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17
>
deep offset ring spanner? something like
http://www.hti-tools.com/RingSpanners.htm
Derek

The only other thing
> > I
> > can think of is a socket and pump pliers with the tube coming out of the
> > hole in the back of the socket,

Socket and mole grips might leave a hand free too.
TonyB

In article <[email protected]>, TonyB
<[email protected]> writes
>
>"Bob Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Is there any sort of gizmo that enables you to open and
>> close the nipple while still keeping the tube on it? The only other thing
>I
>> can think of is a socket and pump pliers with the tube coming out of the
>> hole in the back of the socket, or failing that can you put a longer
>nipple
>> on it, and if so what is the thread?

One way, but involves the 'destruction' of a socket" get a long
reach one and use a disk cutter to carefully make a slot in it
for the bleed pipe to emerge from the side:

Pipe Socket
\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \| |
\ \ |
\ \ |
\ \ |
\ \|
|| ||

Obviously, ASCII art has its limitations! The slot goes to the bottom,
so you can apply it over the already-fitted pipe. Plan B would be a box
spanner modified in a similar way. I'd use a socket in preference, as
the finished item is likely to be stronger and you can use a swivel or
universal joint on it to make operation easier.

I hate doing brakes, and found a pressure-bleed system to be the biz
(uses air from the spare tyre to force fluid through via the reservoir).
It's still easier as a two-man job though, and I used a trailer tyre
instead of the spare for the air supply, as that's easier to manipulate.

If the above isn't it, hope it sparks-off some ideas.


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

In article <Uc%[email protected]>, Derek
<[email protected]> writes
>deep offset ring spanner? something like
>http://www.hti-tools.com/RingSpanners.htm

You can slot these too with a grinder...

Regards,

Simonm. (now worried he's getting obsessed with slicing up tools!)

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

SpamTrapSeeSig wrote:

> In article <Uc%[email protected]>, Derek
> <[email protected]> writes
>
>> deep offset ring spanner? something like
>> http://www.hti-tools.com/RingSpanners.htm
>
>
> You can slot these too with a grinder...
>
> Regards,
>
> Simonm. (now worried he's getting obsessed with slicing up tools!)

I must be missing something here! Why slot a ring spanner for bleeding
purposes - just pass the bleed tube through the ring. The same is true
for a socket - don't use the square drive to turn it, weld/braze a
handle off the side.

Bob Miller wrote:

> You'd probably get one on but only 12th of a turn at a time - not ideal for
> opening and closing the amount that you need for bleeding, or am I being
> pessimistic?

You only need to move it a little bit for bleeding. Use a six sided
deep, close fitting socket for initial loosening to reduce the
likelyhood of shearing it, then put a spanner on it for opening and
closing during bleeding. I normally don't even use the spanner while
bleeding, I stick a Gunsons easibleed on it, a bit of tight fitting
clear hose on the nipple and I just turn the pipe which is tight enough
on the nipple to open and close it, then I use the socket for the final
nip back up.

Regards

William MacLeod

In article <[email protected]>, Dougal
<DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk@?.?.invalid> writes
>SpamTrapSeeSig wrote:
>
>> In article <Uc%[email protected]>, Derek
>><[email protected]> writes
>>
>>> deep offset ring spanner? something like
>>> http://www.hti-tools.com/RingSpanners.htm
>> You can slot these too with a grinder...
>> Regards,
>> Simonm. (now worried he's getting obsessed with slicing up tools!)
>
>I must be missing something here! Why slot a ring spanner for bleeding
>purposes - just pass the bleed tube through the ring.

You're right of course (and I do it too!) - brain overheat. Once it's
over the pipe you can reposition it at will. Not so if you can't get a
spanner into the space and have to use a deep socket tho...


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

On Sat, 26 Nov 2005 01:58:15 -0000, Bob Miller wrote:

> Is there any sort of gizmo that enables you to open and close the
> nipple while still keeping the tube on it?

One of the "easibleed" systems? One way valve in the tube allows the
fluid out but not air in. You might get a *little* drawn in around the
threads but you don't need to open the nipple much just break the seal
really. What little air may have got drawn it gets expelled on the
next push and you do the nipple up with the pedal down or going down
anyway.

--
Cheers [email protected]
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

So if I'd looked a bit more carefully I'd have spotted that the split brake
system is front-back, rather than diagonal as it's been on other cars I've
had. As I was only changing a rear cylinder I didn't need to do the fronts
so the problem was academic (and don't the brakes feel good now!). However
thanks for all the replies - I think I'm going to marmalise a deep socket to
weld a handle on it, and then I'll be ready when I do have to do the fronts.

Many thanks again
--
Bob Miller
1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83
1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17

"Bob Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK - dumb question to start the weekend:
>
> Got to bleed the brake system this weekend (1990 110 with rear drums) and
> I've noticed that the front calliper brake nipple is conveniently hidden
> between two bolt heads (just to make it impossible to get any sort of
swing
> on a spanner). Is there any sort of gizmo that enables you to open and
> close the nipple while still keeping the tube on it? The only other thing
I
> can think of is a socket and pump pliers with the tube coming out of the
> hole in the back of the socket, or failing that can you put a longer
nipple
> on it, and if so what is the thread?
> --
> MTIA
>
> Bob Miller
> 1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83
> 1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17
>
>