Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
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Oh I also broke my front bumper at Yarwell, bust the fog lights off hitting water too fast, oops.
Still it meant I could some more new bits....
New bumper and spots fitted:
I didn't take any photos of fitting the bumper but it's a doddle....
* Remove the extended wheel arch liners from the front bottom of the wheel arches
* Remove the side bolts that attach the bumper to the wings
* disconnect foglamp wiring
* Place a bucket under the headlamp washer pump and disconnect the pipe from it - allow to drain.
* Remove the 4 bolts securing the bumper to the crush cans and lower it off.
* Remove crush can bolts & crush cans
* disconnect the washer pump electrical connector and plug the pipe with a self tapping screw
* lift new bumper into place, and tap fit with FBH
* fit new bolts![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
I wired the in bumper 55W spots into my foglamp wiring - took me a while to work out why they weren't working, realised that I had been pressing the rear fogs button and not the front OOPS! :lol1:
So next job was fitting the 100W spots to the light hoop.
So bolted them on...
Used this stack of bits to create a light loom:
Then drilled a small hole in battery compartment and screwed the 12V 30A 4 pin relay into it...
Earthed the relay via pin 85 to the earth bracket in the battery box using brown 27A cable:
Connected an LED blade fuse holder up to pin 87 using a 25A spade connector, this is the feed to the lights (left fuse out to begin). The blade holder came prewired with 25A cable. (see photo above)
Using 25A yellow spade connectors I ran some 27A red cable to behind the first spot. Joined this to two more pieces of red 27A cable using a domestic connector block (might revisit this bit).
Connected these red feeds to the bullet connectors that came fitted to the lights (~10A each).
Using Brown 27A cable (overkill) earthed both spots near the airbox:
Connected an inline fuse holder (and glass 1 amp fuse) to the control feed of the relay, pin 86 (see third photo). Then wired the other end of this using 5A blue cable down to the offside headlamp box.
Also wired in a new H4 connector for that headlamp because mine was already smashed when I bought the vehicle:
Using a piggy back connector I wired the control line from the relay into the mainbeam feed on the H4.
Last bit of wiring was the battery feed into pin 30 of the relay using red 27A cable and yellow 25 Amp connectors, spade at the relay end and ring at the battery end - a small nut was then used to lock this onto the positive battery clamp.
Finally a 20A fuse was inserted into the LED fuse holder.
Result:
The rewired headlamp was not lighting low or full beam properly when I first completed the wiring, I used BUTT connectors to join the H4 earth to the car loom, it turned out that this connection was poor so I rewired it with spades. This poor earth also affected the relay operation, it was not getting a good control signal to turn the spots off, although they would turn on - odd!
One last note, I used heat shrink wrap on ALL the connections (except the connector block), and also taped over these where I though it might need it:
I'll be getting some split cable conduit to protect the higher power feed lines, just need to source some cheaply.
Still it meant I could some more new bits....
New bumper and spots fitted:
![_MG_9137.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Flh4.googleusercontent.com%2F-oaPV2XEMbOM%2FTwQrctMBgoI%2FAAAAAAAAC8g%2FZeWm_2kDq4U%2Fs912%2F_MG_9137.jpg&hash=7f813f4a730af1ec4847d967f5bdde39)
I didn't take any photos of fitting the bumper but it's a doddle....
* Remove the extended wheel arch liners from the front bottom of the wheel arches
* Remove the side bolts that attach the bumper to the wings
* disconnect foglamp wiring
* Place a bucket under the headlamp washer pump and disconnect the pipe from it - allow to drain.
* Remove the 4 bolts securing the bumper to the crush cans and lower it off.
* Remove crush can bolts & crush cans
* disconnect the washer pump electrical connector and plug the pipe with a self tapping screw
* lift new bumper into place, and tap fit with FBH
* fit new bolts
I wired the in bumper 55W spots into my foglamp wiring - took me a while to work out why they weren't working, realised that I had been pressing the rear fogs button and not the front OOPS! :lol1:
So next job was fitting the 100W spots to the light hoop.
So bolted them on...
Used this stack of bits to create a light loom:
![_MG_9127.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Flh3.googleusercontent.com%2F-811i5u91Gh0%2FTvyOJWVNpfI%2FAAAAAAAAC7g%2FHvgXPDa_7Lg%2Fs912%2F_MG_9127.jpg&hash=fa76ecf224412c1e8c562792ee251142)
Then drilled a small hole in battery compartment and screwed the 12V 30A 4 pin relay into it...
![_MG_9131.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Flh6.googleusercontent.com%2F-3AxGLYFzFd8%2FTwQraTcIrvI%2FAAAAAAAAC8A%2Fb8xz08icDCM%2Fs912%2F_MG_9131.jpg&hash=6ec7d97e90915b0a54d622bbad59c37c)
Earthed the relay via pin 85 to the earth bracket in the battery box using brown 27A cable:
![_MG_9132.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Flh5.googleusercontent.com%2F-2uG9SG264_A%2FTwQrbDBcioI%2FAAAAAAAAC8M%2F8IC2vrLisMA%2Fs720%2F_MG_9132.jpg&hash=958b27b4d51cef024842c58c86f05250)
Connected an LED blade fuse holder up to pin 87 using a 25A spade connector, this is the feed to the lights (left fuse out to begin). The blade holder came prewired with 25A cable. (see photo above)
Using 25A yellow spade connectors I ran some 27A red cable to behind the first spot. Joined this to two more pieces of red 27A cable using a domestic connector block (might revisit this bit).
![_MG_9130.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Flh4.googleusercontent.com%2F-XMTQSCyE6I8%2FTwQrZJ8ndtI%2FAAAAAAAAC70%2FBN8BV5jlIZE%2Fs912%2F_MG_9130.jpg&hash=56ad7b4b581a656f8b07ce00b9c7eecf)
Connected these red feeds to the bullet connectors that came fitted to the lights (~10A each).
Using Brown 27A cable (overkill) earthed both spots near the airbox:
![_MG_9128.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Flh4.googleusercontent.com%2F-L3yRtTaRU8o%2FTwQrZJ5zNrI%2FAAAAAAAAC7s%2FPJ5Q7qKyYdY%2Fs912%2F_MG_9128.jpg&hash=ba04b7e890c0949ea9b52a99abd5f79c)
Connected an inline fuse holder (and glass 1 amp fuse) to the control feed of the relay, pin 86 (see third photo). Then wired the other end of this using 5A blue cable down to the offside headlamp box.
Also wired in a new H4 connector for that headlamp because mine was already smashed when I bought the vehicle:
![_MG_9133.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Flh3.googleusercontent.com%2F-G-6If1PpxS8%2FTwQrbvk0GRI%2FAAAAAAAAC8Q%2FP3VGXmP0OZ4%2Fs912%2F_MG_9133.jpg&hash=12eeeaac91a0181255e88126c7425b6a)
Using a piggy back connector I wired the control line from the relay into the mainbeam feed on the H4.
Last bit of wiring was the battery feed into pin 30 of the relay using red 27A cable and yellow 25 Amp connectors, spade at the relay end and ring at the battery end - a small nut was then used to lock this onto the positive battery clamp.
Finally a 20A fuse was inserted into the LED fuse holder.
Result:
![_MG_9135.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Flh6.googleusercontent.com%2F-oqKdlo-WHiE%2FTwQrbmiv-9I%2FAAAAAAAAC8U%2FZsCMtb6n4UA%2Fs912%2F_MG_9135.jpg&hash=9ed59cc0a45174e1487169e7aca6e745)
The rewired headlamp was not lighting low or full beam properly when I first completed the wiring, I used BUTT connectors to join the H4 earth to the car loom, it turned out that this connection was poor so I rewired it with spades. This poor earth also affected the relay operation, it was not getting a good control signal to turn the spots off, although they would turn on - odd!
One last note, I used heat shrink wrap on ALL the connections (except the connector block), and also taped over these where I though it might need it:
![_MG_9129.jpg](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Flh6.googleusercontent.com%2F-J0OfTZJIb_8%2FTwQrZHTlp7I%2FAAAAAAAAC7w%2FU30z-I6Tq7c%2Fs912%2F_MG_9129.jpg&hash=a8a9519e305711c6771012fa950c335c)
I'll be getting some split cable conduit to protect the higher power feed lines, just need to source some cheaply.