Bankz's Discovery 2!

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Ahhh an auto? Fair enough! They are fairly weak

That said the autos can still take a fair bit of power but had to be properly tuned to save the box.
 
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Sorry for lack of updates. Life appears to be in a blender at the moment...

Had to swap the LOF Powerslave out on the D2 as the are not recommended for new clutches, fine on a Defender because you can adjust the pedal to suit. Not the case on a D2. Swapped out for an AP Slave for at least the next 2k miles so the clutch can fully bed in.

Since swapping gear changes are considerably better but the clutch pedal is obviously heavier. Good trade off, for now... I did ask Sam at Sussex LR to fit a Syncro SlickShift, easy to do when the box is out. Changes are nicer, shorter and feel more modern. Worth doing if the box is out or you can be bothered :oops::D

I must say the best upgrade of all has come from Pioneer4x4 with their braided clutch line. Slave swap and bleed took 20 minutes on the drive, no difficulty bleeding at all. As its flexi was able to swap the slave cylinders above the engine instead of underneath. All about making life easier! Highly recommended.

Covered 350miles now driving sensibly, slowly bedding the clutch in ready for the power upgrades.

Got 99% of the components for turbo swap, just waiting on an improved oil feed line from Pioneer.

Will be fabricating a 3" stainless downpipe and mid box with a sports silencer this time, instead of just the down pipe. Should be quiet enough for daily use but loud enough when I want it. As the rear section will be tricky. Not doing the standard cut a hole in the side.... :rolleyes:
 
The time has finally come!

Fitting Empire Tunings water cooled VNT, same one I had in the 110.

First step, manifold off and a CJM manifold in, of course with Wurth uprated studs.
20221111_192743.jpg


Dont forget to nip up the core plug any time the manifolds off.

My method of plenty of Plus Gas and removing the studs while the engine is hot worked perfectly. Taken 7 off now with zero studs snapping!

Wurth studs installed and nipped up to 25nm.

Rotor housing removed and custom Pioneer4x4 oil feed line fitted.

Annoyingly I had to remove the coolant block to allow movement on the AC compressor so the CJM manifold can fit. No need to degas the AC system as there is plenty of flex in the pipes.

Tomorrow the turbo goes in and I can run the water lines + new oil drain.

Then onto the 3" downpipe and mid box.

Will be doing the tail section later in the year when the new bumpers fitted!
 
Very busy coupld days!

VNT is in and all lines connected. So far leak free.
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Neater install this time round as I sort of knew what I was doing :p

Went for an M22 x 1.5 AN10 fitting for the block, with braided stainless line. Mich better than the multiple joined silicone hose on the 110.

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Only downside is due to the way the D2 AC lines run I now cant change the rotor filter without removing the AC compressor. This is down to the CJM manifold being larger rather than the turbo itself.

Rather annoying! Just means a service will have a few more steps...

Very happy to have proepr TD5 power again!
 
Already so much better and so much to drive.

Boost is basically instantaneous, yet smooth and controlled. Climbs through the rev range so quickly you would think youre in a modern petrol.

The amount of torque is insane, touch the throttle and it just goes. Rarely have to actually change gear! It will happily pull from 30 to 70 in 5th with no issue and very quickly to boot!

Still needs some fine tuning at Empire HQ to get the absolute most from it!
 
bankz5152 said:
Already so much better and so much to drive.

Boost is basically instantaneous, yet smooth and controlled. Climbs through the rev range so quickly you would think youre in a modern petrol.

The amount of torque is insane, touch the throttle and it just goes. Rarely have to actually change gear! It will happily pull from 30 to 70 in 5th with no issue and very quickly to boot!

Still needs some fine tuning at Empire HQ to get the absolute most from it!
Click to expand...

Can I just ask what the benefits of the uprated turbo on the td5 if a remap doesn't alter the boost? Ive put a boost gauge on mine last week and bar a decat it's standard and my boost is also instant and sits at just over 20psi all the way threw the revs...
Apologies for the jump on your thread I'm just trying to understand for myself td5 tuning :)
 
Boost is controlled mechanically. However boost cuts are controlled by the ECU.

18 -20psi is the safe and most efficient for a standard turbo. Around 24psi for hybrids and VNTs/VGTs depends on the model but can go as much as 35psi.

My turbo is considerably larger than a standard one and capable of push a hell of a lot more air. Not only that but its a VNT so in simple terms at low boost/low revs it acts like a small frame turbo so very fast spool and thus instant power as boost builds the vanes open and it becomes a large turbo which feeds the engine all the way through the rev range but without any turbo lag. Mines currently set around 26psi but for the ECU to "allow" this boost pressure the MAF sensor has been deleted and the MAP sensor changed to a 4 bar sensor.

Also with this type of turbo, when tuned you can have peak torque very low in the rev range. Perfect for hill climbs, towing etc...

I had the same turbo on my 110 which on first tuning achieved 230hp and 525nm torque with a stock air filter and slightly leaky intercooler. With peak torque at 2100rpm.

After we sorted those issues got 250hp and 560nm. This was at 26psi.

The D2, after the headstuds are installed will be going for 32psi and should achieve around 280bhp and 580nm but we will test on the dyno.
 
Sweet :cool:
I was under the impression that the head was the weak point for boost ie warping and cracking due to the extra heat and pressure :rolleyes: surely the injector seals would be more prone too with the higher cylinder pressure?
I do wonder too whether a ported and polished head would be much benefit as I've noticed a couple of times of taking the exhaust manifold off that the gaskets don't match the port's....
 
The head is the weak point at this level. Wont take much more than 25psi or so.

Which is why im having HD studs installed rather than the stock bolts.

Injector seals are fine, never heard of any issues at all.

You can port and polish but its very expensive circa £2k and the gains a minimal. Maybe 20hp and 50nm. So not worth it imo...

Gary at Alive has a ported/polished AMC head and has hit the 300bhp/600nm mark which is very impressive however at significant cost.

To me theres no point spending £1500 on an AMC head, £2k on porting and £1600 on new (not refurbed) injectors for low gains. For that cost alone may as well fit a V8....

In my view VNT + Studs is the best way to get the most out of a TD5 without having diminishing returns on cash spent.

Studs are around £450 and gain 50-60hp, same in torque with added reliability of the head. £5k for 30hp? Fairly pointless imo
 
Possibly the most gypsy thing ive ever done to a car....

received_877051883292786.jpeg


Removed the back box and replaced with a straight pipe. It does sound bloody brilliant, yet if youre just cruising quiet as stock thanks to the high flow mid box.

I only did such a ropey thing as that whole section is being cut off to make way for the low profile rear bumper and a proper side exit, similar to what I had on the 110.
 
That’s a large hole for a small pipe ;)

I also run a straight pipe on the rear of the landy, only because the spray rots the back box

with all the engine work do you have to go up a size in exhaust pipe?
 
Hicap phill said:
That’s a large hole for a small pipe ;)

I also run a straight pipe on the rear of the landy, only because the spray rots the back box

with all the engine work do you have to go up a size in exhaust pipe?
Click to expand...

It was done hard and fast with minimal care :p as I said all thats being cut off so worth it for now.

Yes, its got a 3" downpipe, 3" mid box with a 5" 300mm long silencer.

Once the rear bumpers on a modified to suit a nicer than normal side exit. Ill fit a 3" over axle pipe and side exit.

Similar to this

IMG_20200322_193128_390.jpg


In other news finally moved my ECU. Really had no idea how I was going to do it until I found theres a second unused grommet above the normal one. Just enough space to get the ECU plug through and reposition under the steering column.

Just got to properly seal it up.

Screenshot_20221120-133402_WhatsApp.jpg
 
Got my self a nice 48" curved light bar which I want to fit. Though due to my snorkel and the 48" not 52" size cant use a lot of the off the shelf brackets.

Having a steel fab workshop and a laser cutter its not an issue just looking for some inspo!

What I did notice is the 48" fits faiy perfectly between the G4 bars.

Screenshot_20221121-190306_Gallery.jpg


This could lead to a very neat and slim bracket/fixing. However means drilling and tapping into a G4 bar. Which may not be the greatest fixing.

Also mocked up another standard gutter mount, just quite ugly imo.

Always the option to weld a bracket to the G4 bar, carefully so it can be cut off and refinished in the future.
 
Spent the day at Empire HQ fine tuning the D2. Quite the beast now!

Spins all 4 tyres in a straight line on a dry road :cool::D

Very clean running as well, minimal smoke. Theres a touch below 2k but barely noticeable, quite impressive.

Its a bit quicker than my 110 as well, given its a tad lighter and a better intake system!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Clbxj8Vrr4A/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Also painted my snorkel and rear bumper.
Primed with Upols Acid Etch then x3 coats Buzzwelds ceramic reinforced Raptor via HVLP.

Now to leave in the garage for 7 days to fully cure.

Will refit the snorkel next week.

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Just got back from our Christmas trip to the Salisbury Plains. D2 did a wonder job and the new turbo came into its own.



Never been to Salisbury when its been thsi cold! Very few puddles as all frozen solid, up to 12" at points where we could happily drive over!



Cant seem to post pics
 
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