Axle identification needed due to stuck caliper bolt

What started as a simple "replace some bearings and breaks" job, has ended up a disaster, thanks to the dreaded 12 sided caliper bolt being rounded off by a previous owner on the front drivers side wheel.

I have literally trid everything, and I can't get anything to get it moving. I've even tried welding a nut to the bolt head but it's too fiddly and tight in there for my level of experience. I can't seem to get s good earth anyway.

All very frustrating.

I think I've got no choice now but to take the whole swivel housing off, and see where I can go from there. I take the whole thing off that way, and the breaks and hub with it right?

I'm just trying to then work out what I'll need ready to put it all back together again.

Looking at the various kits in the usual online shops, there's a few different options for different axles.

There is NOTHING standard or original on my 1987 90. With 14 owners, it's a proper trigger's broom. So how can I now be sure of what axle I'm really dealing with? I've seen a few videos showing where serial numbers can be found, but nope, there's nothing on this one. I've been running and scraping away, and I'm just finding metal.

So what's next for working out which I have?

Also, any other advice for my stuck caliper is welcome. I've tried Erwin extractors, and banging on smaller sockets, etc. Someone totally destroyed it before I got here.

Thanks.

pics of swivel are would help from several sides

jamesmartin said:

pics of swivel are would help from several sides

Click to expand...

Any good?

Same more...

2 more..

Or is this going to be a lot easier if I take it all off and then take photos?

Can anyone confirm if I can get the whole lot off without taking the caliper off?

To my knowledge you could take the whole lot off where the ball bolts to the axle casing, but this would include the half shaft. But what you gain in access you’ll loose in leverage for undoing the bolt.

Huddy84 said:

To my knowledge you could take the whole lot off where the ball bolts to the axle casing, but this would include the half shaft. But what you gain in access you’ll loose in leverage for undoing the bolt.

Click to expand...

Indeed, that's a concern, but I guess if I fully detach everything, and get it on a bench, I can clamp it down.

I'm replacing the hub, and disk anyway, so at this rate, I'm going to be replacing the whole damn lot too. Bloody landies.

Could you weld a nut or old socket to the caliper bolt to get it off ?

Galladog said:

Could you weld a nut or old socket to the caliper bolt to get it off ?

Click to expand...

I've spent a good part of today trying this. It's a nightmare to get to, or get enough earth. I'm relatively inexperienced at welding but I think it would take someone very skilled to get it done while in situ

HeywoodFloyd said:

I've spent a good part of today trying this. It's a nightmare to get to, or get enough earth. I'm relatively inexperienced at welding but I think it would take someone very skilled to get it done while in situ

Click to expand...

remove it at axle case joint, turn it upright so you can whack the hell out of the bolt then try whacking a socket on it will come eventually mushrooming the head helps socket fit

jamesmartin said:

remove it at axle case joint, turn it upright so you can whack the hell out of the bolt then try whacking a socket on it will come eventually mushrooming the head helps socket fit

Click to expand...

Looks like this is going to be what I do.

Looking on the other wheel, I can see the same bolt has a fair bit of wear too, I'm expecting the same fun again.

Is there any reason these 12 point bolts were used here, i.e can I replace them with normal 6 pointers when I'm done?

HeywoodFloyd said:

Looks like this is going to be what I do.

Looking on the other wheel, I can see the same bolt has a fair bit of wear too, I'm expecting the same fun again.

Is there any reason these 12 point bolts were used here, i.e can I replace them with normal 6 pointers when I'm done?

Click to expand...

no you need the proper bolts then are special bolt with a specific sized shank
afu1031 if coarse

ftc3375 if fine

yours should be coarse

jamesmartin said:

no you need the proper bolts then are special bolt with a specific sized shank
afu1031 if coarse
View attachment 177877

ftc3375 if fine
View attachment 177878
yours should be coarse

Click to expand...

Aha, noted! Thanks for this. This probably would have become more apparent once the bolt was removed. If I ever get the f**ker off

2 weeks later, I finally get somewhere. However, this is what I discovered under the hub... Is my stub axel useless now? Was the the cause of the inner bearing death, or the result?



I take it I need to replace?

Actually, is this still part of the bearing seized onto the stub axle???

yes replace stub axle

HeywoodFloyd said:

Actually, is this still part of the bearing seized onto the stub axle???

Click to expand...

yes

Yes you need to replace the stub axle.
The bearing seized and it's inner race spun on the stub axle friction welding itself in place.