Freelander 1 Auto Box TC Change - completed

Quick question on the above please.
Td4 Auto box just about to come out for torque converter change.
There is 4.5 litres of fluid when changing and another 4 litres to fill when empty.
Where is this extra 4 litres held?
I am thinking it will be in the TC and so removal of the TC will have it all over the floor!? Is this correct, if so I will prepare to catch it.
Any way to drain the extra 4 L under control??
Thanks

Most of the fluid stays in the TC. The way to keep most of the fluid in, is to pull the TC off the box shaft, and turn it shaft side up the moment it's disengaged from the box..

Thanks. So tip the engine flywheel plate side downwards??

andyfreelandy said:

Thanks. So tip the engine flywheel plate side downwards??

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The drive plate stays on the engine, once 4 bolts that secure the drive plate to the TC are removed.
The TC will normally stay in the box as it's withdrawn from the engine bay, as long as the box is kept level.

Thanks, yes I appreciate the plate stays, just clarifying which side up to make sure I don't get a boot full of fluid!!

So gearbox side up then when TC pulled out??

andyfreelandy said:

Thanks, yes I appreciate the plate stays, just clarifying which side up to make sure I don't get a boot full of fluid!!

So gearbox side up then when TC pulled out??

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Yes. That's correct.
The TC doesn't have to stay in the box while you move it about. But keeping it in place will keep the fluid inside.

You can strap it in place with a piece of steel, bolted across the bell housing to prevent the TC from becoming dislodged.

Thanks. Plan is, gearbox out, TC, seal, o ring change and box back in!!

So I'm in and ready to drop the box. Shed load of work to get to that point!

Not easy to see how to strap the gearbox to fit the crane. Any good ideas??
It is an odd shaped lump to put a strap around and not sure where centre of gravity will be. Don't want it falling out!

Maybe make a strap that bolts onto the top mount holes and hook onto that.
How have others attached a crane to an auto box please?

I'd use a strap through the box mount holes on the outside, and put a long bolt in a starter hole for the engine side. As long as you can take the weight, getting the balance correct isn't to much of an issue to remove it. When it's out, you can play with balance for when it goes back in.

Did the big bit today. Dropped gearbox out, changed oil seal and O ring, fitted replacement TC and refitted.

Easier taking it out than getting it back!!
The chassis rail makes it a tight fit and throws the top in to touch the drive plate then gets stuck.
Had to drop the engine a bit and retry. It's a good feeling when you get 2 engine to box bolts back in OK.

So just the IRD, hubs, subframe, driveshafts, wishbones, prop front end and wheels to go!!

Another day I think.

BTW, is there a process for adding fluid from empty? Got about 4 L and 2L from TC. Does it all go back in then set level or do you put 4 or 5 L in, run it then add more??

Thanks

andyfreelandy said:

Does it all go back in then set level or do you put 4 or 5 L in, run it then add more??

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I'd put 5L of ATF-U in, start it up with the level plug out, then add more ATF-U until it starts to come out the level plug. Cycle the gears, add another 0.5L, see how much comes out the level hole, if it all comes out, it's full.

Once it's full & dripping out level hole, put the plug back before you stop the engine. Otherwise the fluid will settle & pour out while you're trying to get the plug in !!

I would say fill it engine off to the level hole, then start the engine, then fill it again to the level hole. As pwood999 says don't turn the engine off until after the plug is back in.
You are supposed to run it until the gearbox oil is up to a certain temperature before a final fill to the level hole and plug in before turning off the engine.

Thanks all.
All now back together except for hubs which will get done next week now.

I found a couple of really pitted perished fuel lines behind the front subframes so replaced those while I could get at them.
Strangly most hoses are fine just a couple had badly deteriorated like they were made of a different material.
Will post photos, wouldn't have seen them if I hadn't been conducting a health check before putting front subframes back on.

Few photos of the job, didn't take many as I don't like to stop mid flow with big heavy things hanging in the air !

Thought I might run a competition, who can spot:
Left over timber from replacing bedroom floor joists? If it held the floor up for 200 years it can surely hold my engine (or half my engine!)
Copper pipe from re-plumbing airing cupboard?
Chain from old boat yard?
Stainless wire sling from God knows where?
Galvanised brackets not needed for horse stable build?
Curtains - from windows (of course)?

Enjoy....................and smile

Good to see the wooden beam working for you Andy.

All done, fluid levels sorted and back together.
First test drive suggests that the massive vibration when TC locked has now gone.
Always a gamble with a 'low mileage' used item but looking good so far.
Just need to Mot it now as that expired during the job!!
Onto the head gasket job now....... On the 1.8K see other thread.