Anyone ever replaced the engine mount by the battery on a Xedi?

Anyone ever replaced the engine mount by the battery on a 2.0L Xedi? Looking at the haynes manual it says to remove the wheel, splash guard, battery, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder etc etc!

Do you actually need to remove all that to get this mount out?

Morning Taipan.

Had another go at the mount for the petrol at the weekend. Didnt remove the mount but I could access it just with removing air box and air intake.

Place a bar between the buffer and the mount bracket. Lever the bar to see if there is excess movement. Couldnt believe the slack on the mount and the wretched noise it made too.

So packed the mount on both sides. Immediately noticed the engine jolt/clonk had gone when sharply lifting off the gas.

Havent got round to removing or modifying it yet, another project/prototype for the winter nights ahead lol.

LR1796 said:

Morning Taipan.

Had another go at the mount for the petrol at the weekend. Didnt remove the mount but I could access it just with removing air box and air intake.

Place a bar between the buffer and the mount bracket. Lever the bar to see if there is excess movement. Couldnt believe the slack on the mount and the wretched noise it made too.

So packed the mount on both sides. Immediately noticed the engine jolt/clonk had gone when sharply lifting off the gas.

Havent got round to removing or modifying it yet, another project/prototype for the winter nights ahead lol.

Click to expand...

Morning mate.

It wont be so bad if I can get at it like you say. Dont fancy taking clutch stuff off and God knows what else as well! But looks like i'll have to do what it takes.

Sometimes Haynes manual tell you such a long winded way of doing things and i was hoping this was the case with this?

Due to the price of it I really wanted to remove it and inspect it first. But when I think about it, its done 114k and probably is worn and needs replacing even if it isn't the cause of my vibration (Dear God, please let it be the cause, Amen, Taipan). Plus I dont trust my trolley jacks to stay up supporting the engine over night.

So I'm going to bite the bullet and go and order it today or tomorrow and weather permitting, fit it at the weekend. I need to get on with this as the car has been parked up on the drive without being used for weeks now. Either that or I turn it into a potting shed!

Trolley jack will be grand on the bell housing, unless its leaking hydraulic fluid, even a few bricks/wood will do the job.

I havent had any probs since I packed the mount. The gearbox is the same on petrol/diesel and with air filter/air intake removed there was loads of space to get at the bolts. Battery would be optional if you dont mind reaching over the top of it.

I am hoping to modify the original mount. Not happy with the properties of the hydramount. It should have ben a solid rubber mount in the first place. There is another hydramount on the RHS (cone shaped). This seems to have moved as well, time for another few mods me thinks.

Apparently the Hydramount on LHS is the same as rubber bush on rover 200. Some of the ZR/S/T have the L-series fitted so it may be worth seeing if they have a rubber mount available for both sides

hi folks - this is for the "bubble" 200 with "L" series engine.

Nice one MHM.

Ever on the ball, do you have a diagram for the k-series/200 chassis

Where did you source that info?

tink so
wotcha want?

The Mad Hat Man said:

wotcha want?

Click to expand...

Diagram, protocol for Rover 200 engine mounts with rubber bushes, for k-series engine

The Mad Hat Man said:

hi folks - this is for the "bubble" 200 with "L" series engine.

Click to expand...

Well done that man! I loikes pictures for me planning!

The Mad Hat Man said:

hi folks - this is for the "bubble" 200 with "L" series engine.

Click to expand...

Looking at that is it the same as mount #14 in this diagram just viewed from a different angle?

Its hard to tell, I think the diag MHM posted are the rubber bush type, not the hydramount. For starters the bolts numbered - 14 are straight into the gearbox, could it be R65 gearbox on the Rover200. Not sure but know the 1.6k/1.4k had these gearboxes not the PG1 type. If it is the PG1 then is there an extra bracket attached to the gearbox on the Rover200????



the mount no14 in your diag is the hydramount. Part11 is the surrounding bracket. Bolts 15 look as though they are attached to the gearbox. You would prob need to remove splashguard to remove these

Deffo rubber mount type - and for the 200 series with PG1 box.

attached is 220Turbo with "K" series engine. very similar (identical?)
and yes - there is an extra engine stabilizer bar underneath - will post piccy if yu interested?

OK thanks MHM. Its good to have it confirmed. Straight away I can see similarities and differences in 200/220 and FL.

The steady bar as notation says (No.3) is the same as the upper FL tie bar. The engine mounting bracket (No.8) is different in the FL k-series, but engine mount (No.10) looks like it is a suitable replacment for the RHS cone hydramount

220 Turbo Engine Steady (under engine)

Again, tie bar/steady bar looks identical. Dimensions of FL tie bar is 13.5cm from centre of bolts 2-3.

Attachment points 3 (IRD) and 2 (subframe) are different.

deffo gotta be a 220turbo hippoo sumtime

The Mad Hat Man said:

deffo gotta be a 220turbo hippoo sumtime

Click to expand...

LOL Would be straight swap. Donor IRD/ gearbox from FL, engine from
220. Although did I read that the input shaft is different??

Then we're gonna submit the vehicle for Scrapheap challange.

Cats eyes says she wants to be team captain. Might be worthwhile starting a thread in general section. Challenge the defender boys to compete against our 220 FL

nope

make it 2wd - use the turbo box with Quaife diff. Remove ird, props, vcu, rear diff and rear halfshafts up to knuckle. This will remove alot of unneccessary weight and stop lots of problems.
Only prob now is can we change the rear drums for a decent set of disks?

this mite be useful - 220 Engine mounts on e-bay

eBay.co.uk: Rover 220 Turbo int. R/Hand engine mounting . (item 130015616296 end time 05-Feb-07 23:55:03 GMT)

eBay.co.uk: Rover 220 Turbo int. Front engine mounting bracket. (item 130015614108 end time 05-Feb-07 23:45:06 GMT)

eBay.co.uk: Rover 220 Turbo int. R/Hand engine mounting bracket. (item 130015615321 end time 05-Feb-07 23:49:43 GMT)

The Mad Hat Man said:

nope

make it 2wd - use the turbo box with Quaife diff. Remove ird, props, vcu, rear diff and rear halfshafts up to knuckle. This will remove alot of unneccessary weight and stop lots of problems.
Only prob now is can we change the rear drums for a decent set of disks?

Click to expand...

No gotta keep the 4wd system but rip out the HDC/TC. It would be a night mare re-jigging drive shaft to fit FL chassis/struts.

220 at the front wheels would make scary cornering/understeer

Gallaway NAS do discs for rear, but you need pimp wheels cause discs are huge