ACE Removed

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meego

meego

Well-Known Member
Posts
10,004
Location
Caledonia
Done away with the ACE today. Had a pipe leaking, and the rest of them looked none too healthy either. So decided to get rid of it, rather than part with a bloody small fortune in new pipework.

Removed pump, fitted an idler pulley and new belt. Disconnected warning light and buzzer. Took it for a wee run and threw it about a wee bit to see what effect it had.....none. Drives as good to me as the day I got it.

I would say to anyone who thinking about this, go for it.
 
Mine's being done at the moment, pick it up Friday, now feeling a little less apprehensive about the outcome as far as handling goes....
 
eightinavee said:
It may be a big help to other owners if you indicate which connectors to remove.ACE removal is becoming more and more common as DII's go into old age....
Click to expand...

you can't do it by removing the connector as the signal from ACE ECU comes in one pin of the multiplug which is for many other warning lamps too... or simply cutting the wire from ACE ECU would not help cos it would activate the warning, you must remove the ECU and splice into the wire which goes to instrument pack with an ignition live...as this is the sequence which put the warning to rest cos the warning must get more than 8V on the earth path( this comes from the ECU), this trick is doable at the ECU plug C0467 pin 36, in the compartment under the steering wheel C0047 - 5 or at the instrument pack C0233 -1 ...it's a brown/orange wire all the way(connetor views in RAVE - electrical library), when the system works well the ACE ECU sends between 8 -12 V on the earth path to keep the warning off... all the lamps are working this way as to get a warning if the ECU remains without feed(blown fuse) or something:
RAVE - Instrumets description said:
The voltage on the earth path from the ACE ECU to the instrument pack has the following functions:
l < 1.8 volts = warning lamp on.
l > 7.7 volts = warning lamp off.
Click to expand...

What they dont say is that between 1.8V and 7.7V the lamp is red...anyway by knowing these things you can deduce that by just cutting the wire/removing the ECU the voltage on that earth path wire is 0 (< 1.8 volts = warning lamp on) ...that's why i was so intrigued about the OP's statement as he did it at the instrument pack and i'm curious how :)
 
Last edited:
Sorry if I've asked this before james, but how did you mechanically lock the bars? I take it this is other than letting them default to a locked bars setting (the hydraulic fluid is still in the rams).
Thanks.
 
DIFFLOCK66 said:
Sorry if I've asked this before james, but how did you mechanically lock the bars? I take it this is other than letting them default to a locked bars setting (the hydraulic fluid is still in the rams).
Thanks.
Click to expand...
already removed block ,pump ,pipes etc before i was let down with parts id sourced or not as it turned out , made a rod and bracket to replace ram
 
DIFFLOCK66 said:
Sorry if I've asked this before james, but how did you mechanically lock the bars? I take it this is other than letting them default to a locked bars setting (the hydraulic fluid is still in the rams).
Thanks.
Click to expand...

here is one other method: cut the pipes near the banjo connection at the two ACE actuators, tap a thread in them and find some grease nipples which you can screw in there then fill the actuators with thin grease equal both sides(those actuators are like a syringe inside)...follow this procedure: with acuator opened both sides, disconnect the actuator's rod and pull it out to the maximum, fit bleed nipple to the upper side and fill all the way with the lower side open utill the rod goes entirely in then open the upper side, fit grease nipple to the lower side leaving the grease out on the other side untill the rod comes out to the middle, fit the grease nipple back and "pump" grease in both sides to refuse ...then it will act like on conventional anti roll bars.(like ACE in "locked bars" condition)
 
sierrafery said:
here is one other method: cut the pipes near the banjo connection at the two ACE actuators, tap a thread in them and find some grease nipples which you can screw in there then fill the actuators with thin grease equal both sides(those actuators are like a syringe inside)...follow this procedure: with acuator opened both sides, disconnect the actuator's rod and pull it out to the maximum, fit bleed nipple to the upper side and fill all the way with the lower side open utill the rod goes entirely in then open the upper side, fit grease nipple to the lower side leaving the grease out on the other side untill the rod comes out to the middle, fit the grease nipple back and "pump" grease in both sides to refuse ...then it will act like on conventional anti roll bars.(like ACE in "locked bars" condition)
Click to expand...

some old crawlers had tracks tensioned that way ,i thought about but rod was easier
 
Ah, thanks gents. Mine's been running locked bars since June when I bought it (ACE already bypassed etc.) MOT due June 2014, so you've given me some ideas if I can't source a conventional (& cheap!) pair of anti roll bars. I'm assuming I'd need some for the MOT at least... or is it a case of as long as anti roll bars are present, it doesn't actually matter how strong or effective those bars are as long as bushes and linkages aren't worn?...... (I'm well aware of lessening the cornering ability on road)
 
Very interesting read this thread .I have two replacement bars for mine ready for when ACE pipes go ( rear bar non ACE but with air sus & front standard non ACE, I have the V8 non ACE but with Air Con Belt too) My ACE is still OK atm but pipes are corroded.I have been in touch with JCB repair bloke about doing alternative pipework etc.I will definately let this forum know what I do if & when my pipes go POP!
 
jamesmartin said:
the last one i did i had to lock ace bars mechanically as non ace bars were unavailable it handled very well,
Click to expand...

That was mine. Sorry for not reporting back but I can confirm it handles very well indeed. I'm wondering if it's worth leaving as it is, what do you think?
By the way, all the other repairs you did have been brilliant - top job.
:)
 
We've got a set of solid bars on our son's D2 V8 and I've got a set ready for the day. We've got to get the light turned off in software when we get a minute, but will probably wait until mine is done and get them both done at the same time.

Not taking the old system out is OK for a while, but the fluid will leak out of the actuators eventually and then you'll have no ARB action at all.

There was a kit on ebay with all the parts for about £260 or so.

Peter
 
Bloo said:
That was mine. Sorry for not reporting back but I can confirm it handles very well indeed. I'm wondering if it's worth leaving as it is, what do you think?
By the way, all the other repairs you did have been brilliant - top job.
:)
Click to expand...
ah good ,i was pleasantly surprised with ride ,maybe if your happy with it ,see how you get on :)
 
How is the removal done? Ive recently bought a TD5 Disco and the ACE has been removed ( i can see where the pump was and the empty disconnected reservoir behind the PAS) Mine handles like s*@t on the motorway or at speed. Is this not related to the ACE? or has the previous owner taken some shortcuts when removing it?
Thanks.
 
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