4 bolt steering box

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The box itself is not bad - the real bar-steward is getting the drop arm off it - I ended up taking the box to my friendly Landy garage and they took it off for me.

It's all in the workshop manual - if you haven't got it drop me a line and I can copy the appropriate pages for you. Most of it is drifting bearings in and out - note the position of the bearings on the output shaft so that you know how far to drift the new ones in.

Keep everything really clean and when you rebuild it make sure you do the shimming - I just wound a string around the shaft and used a spring balance to do the torque - the book talks about a (if I remember rightly) 2" pulley, but you can work out the torque and pull for the shaft diameter alone. I did have a problem with a leak from the shimmed plate and after a discussion with Loctite sealed it with Loctite 574.

Good luck!
 
hctbn said:
The box itself is not bad - the real bar-steward is getting the drop arm off it - I ended up taking the box to my friendly Landy garage and they took it off for me.

It's all in the workshop manual - if you haven't got it drop me a line and I can copy the appropriate pages for you. Most of it is drifting bearings in and out - note the position of the bearings on the output shaft so that you know how far to drift the new ones in.

Keep everything really clean and when you rebuild it make sure you do the shimming - I just wound a string around the shaft and used a spring balance to do the torque - the book talks about a (if I remember rightly) 2" pulley, but you can work out the torque and pull for the shaft diameter alone. I did have a problem with a leak from the shimmed plate and after a discussion with Loctite sealed it with Loctite 574.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Cheers!!!

Yeah I'd appreciate a copy from the manual thanks. :)
 
Landyfox said:
Good idea, I will do!!!!

Everyone will be able to learn from my mistakes.....I shall call it 'How NOT TO restore a 4 bolt steering box'. :)
Click to expand...

if needle rollers for sector shaft are intact dont change them,and before you do anything undo rack adjuster it has a locking grub screw too
 
Landyfox said:
The main reason for refurbishing this unit is because there is no further adjustment left.

James you're not aware of any guides on how to do this that you could possibly direct me to.?!
Click to expand...

in what way is there no adjustment left ,because you arent going to change that
 
As far as I can make out, there's no room left to adjust the adjusting screw on the top of the box.

Initially there was a massive amount of free play on the steering wheel but this reduced significantly after I replaced the UJ's on the steering column, but still remains excessive compared to my previous Defenders.
 
Landyfox said:
As far as I can make out, there's no room left to adjust the adjusting screw on the top of the box.

Initially there was a massive amount of free play on the steering wheel but this reduced significantly after I replaced the UJ's on the steering column, but still remains excessive compared to my previous Defenders.
Click to expand...

worth having a look ,the needle rollers if fitted as some use bushes dont wear they either fail in which case box will be scrap as sector shaft will be damaged too, there comes a point when pushing sector shaft against input to reduce play reaches its limit and both need changing which makes box scrap ,but worth trying setting up as a badly adjusted rack adjuster or input shaft can effect the adjustment on top screw
 
jamesmartin said:
worth having a look ,the needle rollers if fitted as some use bushes dont wear they either fail in which case box will be scrap as sector shaft will be damaged too, there comes a point when pushing sector shaft against input to reduce play reaches its limit and both need changing which makes box scrap ,but worth trying setting up as a badly adjusted rack adjuster or input shaft can effect the adjustment on top screw
Click to expand...

Cheers James, sounds pretty complicated! :(
 
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