300tdi boot floor

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

criky18

New Member
Posts
27
Having just had excellent responses to a recent fuel problem, I would now ask for advice on a rusting rear floor on my 1996 300tdi.

It has now reached the stage where there is a lot of daylight visible through a tranverse rusted gap across the back just infront of the rear door and a similar lengthy rust gap down the offside edge of the floor. I'm concerned this will be an MOT fail.

My question is whether:

1. A new floor can be welded in from the top to save going underneath the vehcle with overhead welding. If so I may well try stitching in a new floor myself.

2. Would it be permissible to either weld or pop rivet new plates over the offending rusty gaps as above? Then lots of mastic to seal and cover.

3. Where do I get the best price for a floor pan?

Being a pensioner I would like to keep my 200k miles motor running with the minimum of cost.

Obliged for comments...........
 
I had mine done earlier in the year and boot floors were all around the £60-ish mark from the main suppliers (Paddocks, John Craddock, Island etc.). What was different, and wildly so, was the cost of the boot floor supports - if you need them - these varied from around £80 for a set up to £120+.

Ebay was NOT the cheapest when I looked.
 
The crossmembers on mine could be saved, the thinner 'straps' were completely rotten. Through so I replaced with 2 pieces of rectangular box, they were supplied by a local steel company for £10 all in.

I plug welded the floor on to them from above very much like the standard fitting.

Ben
 
Conclusion...........

Thanks guys..... I've done it. The video really inspired me and whilst it wasn't quite as easy as it looked, it was not too bad and I'm very pleased with the job and particularly the money saving.

I am fortunate in having plenty of free time and have been nibbling away at the job over the last week and it is now done. Weather was great for it.

One problem was that in removing the back seats (not absolutely necessary) I sheared the small bolts screwed in to the floor so will have to weld some threaded studs to floor for replacement. Also do take care when cutting out the old floor just behind the rear seats as there is a copper brake pipe just under the floor which your cutting disk will be delighted to hit. Just missed mine.

There are two rather flimsy metal straps across the vehicle to which floor is spot welded. These have been replaced as very thin, rusted and easy to do. Other support straps were strong and sound.

All spot welds were broken by grinding or by lump hammer and nice sharp cold chisel.

New floor was purchased off Ebay with next day delivery at £60. Good quality. Stitch welded to vehicle around its edge and was thinking of pop riveting to the transverse underfloor straps. Friend suggested drilling quarter inch holes just in floor and then just using the mig to 'fill' these which glues them to the straps and is same as a spot weld. Good idea and recommended.

Its not often you have the opportunity of viewing your chasis from this angle with old floor cut out. Have taken opportunity of:

Cleaning sediment filter.

Good pressure wash.

Spray / paint waxoil on those places you will never see again.

Patched several nasty holes and rust patches in floor adjacent to new floor. Once you've let loose with your mig you might as well do as much as you can.

Rear seat belt floor mountings were a pig to undo even in the vice. Strong Star socket needed. I ended up getting my local garage to break them. Don't forget to remount these fittings 'under' the new floor before fixing it down. Also couple of pop rivets required as per original.

Overall an enjoyable task which has encouraged me to keep my 1996 Disco and to provide further tlc to give a further 200k miles!
 
Back
Top