Thanks again. Yes, had a look in the battery box and there is indeed a black box on the forward-most side. Cannot see the others without removing the dash trim, but assume they're there.
So do you think this bypass gadget will get me out of the hole ? At the moment I can't use the Landie as it's er, immobilised.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...764554&hash=item23542303d2:g:5wcAAOSwdGFY2pmL
Or is there some other way to get it running ? I can always pull the alarm wires to stop the din.
Actually, midway through this I found an old post on the S African 4x4 forum - incredibly comprehensive, so I've shown it below for anyone else with the same problem. I might go through this first, although it looks a bit complicated and the bypass gadget would be an easier and more elegant solution - assuming it actually works ! Here it is:
The alarm/immobiliser system of the 300Tdi consists of 3 main components :
1)The small hand transmitters
2)The alarm control module, attached to the firewall behind the speedometer, and
3)The immobiliser control module, situated inside the battery box under the front passenger seat.
You can have either of the following 3 problems :
1)Faulty hand transmitter
2)Flat battery in hand transmitter, or
3)Faulty immobiliser control module – usually a dry joint on the circuit board.
The easy part is to check/replace the battery in the handheld transmitter. Press the “unlock” button, prise it open, remove the battery, press the buttons to drain any residual power in the hand transmitter, fit the new battery, put the thing together again, and press the button a few times.
If this does not work, it is probably not the transmitter.
You were supposed to be given a 4 digit security code with your vehicle ….. In the owner’s handbook they describe how enter this code into the system. It is a time consuming task, and you have to redo it every time you want to start the vehicle. Say the code is 1234….. You open the door, climb inside, put the key in the ignition and turn it once as far as it will go, turn it off, open and close the door. Turn the key twice, open and close the door, turn the key 3 times ……
From here onwards, you do the work at your own risk !
If your alarm has been activated, you need to temporarily disable it to keep the noise down. It has 2 hooters/sirens. One is the hooters of the vehicle and you can just pull the wires. There will also be a small back-up siren inside the engine bay and you can disconnect it as well. If the alarm has not been activated, you do not have to disconnect the wires.
Now for the immobiliser ……
You need the following :
1)Screwdriver
2)Small soldering iron and solder wire
3)Insulation tape
4)Test lamp or multi-tester
5)3m length of insulated electrical wire.
OK, now you proceed as follows :
1)Open the battery compartment. The immobiliser is inside the small black metal box bolted to the front panel of the battery compartment
2)Undo the screws, and remove it
3)Inside you will see a small box.
4)If you are an electronic boffin, you can open it and re-solder all the connections
5)On the outside you will see a black plastic plug with 7 black wires running in/out of it.
6)Pull the plug off.
7)Turn the ignition key until the red lights come on.
Take the test lamp and find the connecter that has just become “live”. Turn the key on and off to make sure it is the right one. This is the wire that brings power to the fuel cut-off solenoid. Cut it and remove ±15mm of the plastic insulation.
9)Go to the fuel solenoid, and remove the wire bringing power to it. While you are there, make sure everything is nice and clean, free of dirt, etc. Take the 3m electrical cord and connect the one end to this wire, and the other end to the positive of the battery.
10)Go back to the black plastic plug and use your test lamp to find the connector that has now become “live”. This is the wire that takes power to the fuel cut-off solenoid. Cut it and remove ±15mm of the plastic insulation.
11)Connect the 2 wires, solder and insulate them.
12)Turn the ignition key as far as it will go – just like you would when starting the vehicle. Hold the key there.
13)Take the test lamp and find the connecter that has just become “live”. This is the wire that brings power to the starter solenoid. Cut it and remove ±15mm of the plastic insulation.
14)Go to the starter solenoid, and remove the wire bringing power to it. While you are there, make sure everything is nice and clean, free of dirt, etc. Take the 3m electrical cord and connect the one end to the wire, and the other end to the positive of the battery.
15)Go back to the black plastic plug and use your test lamp to find the connector that has now become “live”. This is the wire that takes power to the starter solenoid. Cut it and remove ±15mm of the plastic insulation.
16) Connect the 2 wires, solder and insulate them.
17) Re-connect the starter and fuel solinoid wires. Put the black plastic plug back and test that everything works as it should.
1
Put the immobiliser control unit back inside the black metal box and refit the screws.
19)You have now bypassed the immobiliser.
If all fails, take a box of matches and ……….
Good luck, and I trust that this will solve your problem
Johan