300 TDi bleeding - Handy Tip

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Mudron

Active Member
Posts
236
Location
Salisbury
I recently changed the thermostat and water pump on my 300 disco auto after discovering the bottom end rumble noise was in fact a failed water pump bearing.

After changing both, I could not get the engine to bleed up, specifically, no heat from the heater unless you rag the engine! Disaster!

I took it to a tame specialist around the corner from work, and they fixed it in 30 seconds flat!

So, what happened was......(jethro voice).....

They removed the expansion cap, opened the rad plug, and one chap blew into the expansion tank by making a seal with his mouth and a rag. Water then flowed from the rad plug, at which point the chap quickly put the rad plug back in.

The repeated the same process with the thermostat plug, and finally topped the expansion tank to he correct level.....and hey presto!....no air locks (the smaller air bubbles can now work their way out by themselves with driving) and nice hot heaters!!!!!

Just thought I would share this info in case anyone finds it useful!
 
Its not risky at all, the expansion tank water level goes down not up. You blow into the tank, if you suck air out your don't get the desired effect.
 
I have the habit of doing that but some coolant ends up around my lips. I'm always very careful to rinse my mouth properly.
 
You could probably make a tool from an old rad cap to do the same job. Drill hole in top, insert a tyre valve (the whole rubber thing from underneath) seal with some araldite/silicone, then use a tyre inflator on low pressure to pressurise the coolant system. Probably as low as 10psi, simples.
 
a drop of watered down antifreeze on the lips wont do any harm as long as you rinse after.

but yes a cap would work too, the means is up to you, its the method that seems to work.
 
Back
Top