3 amigo.. the next step

Hi
I realise that there are posts far and wide about this topic and I have researched a lot of them over time. However., I'm now getting a bit frustrated now I have an mot looming.
Last year I had the 3 amigos visit. It baffled me so I bought an icarsoft lr2 diagnostic reader.
The reader said front left sensor problem, changed it but no better. I thought maybe the sensor is working and it's picking up a bad hub, I put on new hubs and new sensors on both sides at the front.
Bingo. Problem solved, that was a year ago.
About a month ago the 3 amigos came back. Plug the reader in and it said rear left sensor erratic. Changed that, didn't work. I found quite a bit of info about the bypass trick on the shuttle valve so did that although it looked like it was working ok on the multimeter.
Still getting the 3 amigos.
By the way, they are quite intermittent, but every day.
Thought I would go down the same route as the front so I have now replaced both rear hubs and sensors. Still getting the 3 amigos.
I have also tried the abs relay.
I will just add for extra frustration value that every time I try something they seem to clear for maybe up to 2 days but I'm sure this is a fluke just to **** me off and trick me into thinking I have fixed it.
Anyway. My reader now does not come up with any hub sensor problems, just the shuttle electrical failure. (And once I saw pump 3 failure). I did see the shuttle failure one a few times before which is why I have done the bypass.

Now.. what is my next step?

One more thing. When I have had the shuttle out, I noticed that the plunger switch nearest the cab has been a little wet! (Don't tell me! )..

My battery seems fine and is at 14.4v on tick over.

Sorry if this does not read properly. I'm in the bath doing this on the phone.
What would you do next?
Any input gratefully received.
Just a last thought. I can't seem to clear the codes using the diagnostic tool today!
Its a 2000 disco 2 td5 by the way.

smeee said:

Hi
I realise that there are posts far and wide about this topic and I have researched a lot of them over time. However., I'm now getting a bit frustrated now I have an mot looming.
Last year I had the 3 amigos visit. It baffled me so I bought an icarsoft lr2 diagnostic reader.
The reader said front left sensor problem, changed it but no better. I thought maybe the sensor is working and it's picking up a bad hub, I put on new hubs and new sensors on both sides at the front.
Bingo. Problem solved, that was a year ago.
About a month ago the 3 amigos came back. Plug the reader in and it said rear left sensor erratic. Changed that, didn't work. I found quite a bit of info about the bypass trick on the shuttle valve so did that although it looked like it was working ok on the multimeter.
Still getting the 3 amigos.
By the way, they are quite intermittent, but every day.
Thought I would go down the same route as the front so I have now replaced both rear hubs and sensors. Still getting the 3 amigos.
I have also tried the abs relay.
I will just add for extra frustration value that every time I try something they seem to clear for maybe up to 2 days but I'm sure this is a fluke just to **** me off and trick me into thinking I have fixed it.
Anyway. My reader now does not come up with any hub sensor problems, just the shuttle electrical failure. (And once I saw pump 3 failure). I did see the shuttle failure one a few times before which is why I have done the bypass.

Now.. what is my next step?

One more thing. When I have had the shuttle out, I noticed that the plunger switch nearest the cab has been a little wet! (Don't tell me! )..

My battery seems fine and is at 14.4v on tick over.

Sorry if this does not read properly. I'm in the bath doing this on the phone.
What would you do next?
Any input gratefully received.
Just a last thought. I can't seem to clear the codes using the diagnostic tool today!
Its a 2000 disco 2 td5 by the way.

Click to expand...

When was the last time you had new tyres?

smeee said:

Just a last thought. I can't seem to clear the codes using the diagnostic tool today!

Click to expand...

So just confirm, you did the SVS wiring mod and you get a sensor and SVS fault codes which are current and can't clear them?

If yes read live stationary inputs from the sensors and measure resistance across earth and the wire which you connected to the yellow/green one from the SVS then report the results

I had 2 new front tyres summer 17 and both rear tyres summer 18.
I Will test the wires this weekend as I have no daylight left when I get home in the week.
I did test them before doing the wiring bypass and excuse my ignorance on electric because I think it was ohms I was reading and it was about 3 with both plunger switches up. About 2 with one pressed and 1 with both pressed.
I think this is correct.
Just to throw another spanner in the works. I found out this morning that I have know brake lights!!!
Related maybe?

The brake lights are not related with those ABS faults, check fuse F25 and if it's good the bulbs... on SVS you have to get 3 ohm with brake pedal released and 1 ohm with pedal depressed, that 2 ohm reading is not important

Ok ive just got home and shoved a torch on my head and because of work tomorrow thought i should look at the brake lights first, i dont want to split the topics on this thread but the bulbs are fine and fuse 25 is fine, i changed that and the abs fuse over, they both looked ok but i still have no brake lights!.....
Anyway, now ive had my sausage and mash im going to head out and get the shuttle valve out, the wet on it is really bugging me. i will try to get a reading as well. I will also post my diagnostics screen photos if i can it has an extra fault screen now.

right, ive just whipped the shuttle valve off and taken reading, a set of 3 tests direct from the 2 pin connector,unpressed, 1 pressed and both pressed , then the same 3 tests using the bypass wires...i hope i can add this many photos in a minute.
When i took the shuttle assembly off it did have the tiniest drop of fluid on them i cleaned it of sprayed cleaner over them and up inside the ally block and dried it all, i also rough up the tips of the plungers with emery. i don't know if they are making an electrical contact or if it is physically being pressed that makes them work!
Chucked it all back together but left my bypass wires disconnected(not that i think this matters, i have tried them on and off before with the same results) took it for about a 3 mile trip to the offy for a reward beer and had no lights at all!!!
I only feel it is a matter of days before they come back again!
I will let you know.
Meantime, if you have any theories or ideas then please let me know, the discoveries do some weird things, yes, i have seen the 3 lights go out when the tyres have been pumped up as well!!!!

And my brake lights still dont work!.........WHY...lol

here are the rest

update. ... done about 20 miles today and no amigos.... I'm not holding my breath.
I will let you know if they come back.
Also ordered a new brake switch today, hopefully have some brake lights tomorrow. .

If there is fluid on the SVS it means the valve seals are leaking and that might ruin the switch pack but the main problem is that there can be a pressure drop on the mechanical valve due to the leak so it can be moments when it will not push the electrical switches hard enough to close the circuit so the ECU will not get the 1 ohm input when the brake pedal is depressed hence the SVS fault code, better replace the modulator if you find a leakless one in good working order or you can replace the SV seals in your's, here's a how to: https://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/abs-svs-seals.html

3 amigos still off today. If its following a pattern I should see them again by the end of the weekend. Then I will check if any fluid is at the shuttle again.
Thank you four the link sierrafery. I think I'm going to need it although I'm going to try to drag it out into the summer of I can get the mot out of the way.
New brake switch arrived today... now the brake lights are staying on permanently because the peddle is not returning far enough to press the switch all the way in! Grrrr..
I

The switch must be adjusted...depress the pedal to the floor and pull the switch's plunger out to the max.

Mot passed today and no 3 amigos. They came on once a few days ago on start up. Switched off and on again and they have not been back yet.
Got some breathing space now I've got a new ticket..
Brake switch it's easy when you know how to do it. . thank you sierrafery..

lights still out

Just to add that the readings you quoted as ohms were, in fact, kilohms. Not important in this case, because the photos corrected you.
In my very limited experience of this problem I read that ANY evidence of fluid around the SVS(?) switches will cause them to fail in the short term.
I also read (though not sure where) that the brake pedal switch has a connection to the operation of the ABS system, so perhaps you've fixed the initial fault by accident.
The Landy experts here would no doubt implore you to sort out the fluid 'leak' before it escalates.

My plan is to wait untill the lights come back on permanently again and then just clean the fluid around the switches only, not do anything else at the same time. if this sorts it then i may pay the £200 to get the modulator refurbished.

What will happen if i let it carry on leaking! apart from the lights being on will it actually effect the brakes?

smeee said:

What will happen if i let it carry on leaking! apart from the lights being on will it actually effect the brakes?

Click to expand...

I presume so as any fluid leak would affect the pressure in the system... you can find leakless working modulators for less than 200 quid , e.g https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...m=254113138958&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I was only thinking that for a refurbished one it has the lifetime guarantee and hopefully its a one time job.
A second hand one could be untested and do the seals perish if they are left to dry out.(thinking impellers here-my boaty side coming out.)
However, it does state at the bottom of that listing that they would replace/refund any faulty part so i wont rule it out.

lights still out

lights back on and staying on for 4 days now
i will take the shuttle valve off and check for fluid again at the weekend if i get time.....
i got rid of them for 6 weeks and for the MOT at least!