2a axle identification

Looks like a standard rover axle, at least diff wise, does it have a flat bottom with 2 bolt holes?
Maybe the brakes have been modded, sometimes folks put 1 ton brakes on to improve stopping power.
Nice workshop.

judging solely on the diff that's fitted, that's an early axle, probably 2a. it's not the flat bottom type fitted to most series 3's.

i also imagine as Dr.P says that someone has improved the brakes by fitting either LWB or late SWB Series3 or 1-ton backplates with twin leading shoes, especially if a V8 has been put in. I think 1-ton brake shoes might be wider than norm if that helps, where 'norm' is the width of your rear brake shoes.

there are numbers stamped into the bottom of the axle casing which may help you further, although I don't know who you'd ask ... try the Series 2 club ... (and the numbers still won't help you identify the brakes!)

For further possible ID help I think the diameter of the wheelstuds changed in June 1969 to 9/16", the steering arms also changed at some point, again this won't help identify the brakes though.

That's a lwb axle,I had the same on my 88" the axle casing is the same it's just the backplate,shoes,cylinders(2 each side) and drum that's bigger, the drum I think is 11" in diameter.if you order the parts just tell them it's a series 3 lwb,paddocks do the full kit front and rear( rears are same as swb )

Excellent pieces of info. I've been having a wire brush session and found the following number 252243978. Is there anywhere I could cross reference the number. My worry is what diff ratios it has. Does it match the rear? Yes the drums are 11 inch. Thanks for all your input.

I think the best way to check the ratio is by hand turning the wheel, because it looks like the axle is non original then you've no way of knowing whether that diff is the original one for that axle, the owner may have cobbled things together.
Did you drive the vehicle in 4wd or did you get in allready in bits.

From distant memory a 252 suffix axle would be about 1961 for a LWB as stated.Common mod when fitting a V8 into a swb back in the day.
Please use decent stuff to rebuild it,I've found that Mintex shoes are about the best,plus genuine Lockheed for the cyls.I get the flexible hoses made up locally from Goodridge hose - much better pedal from them and they last.
Whats parked next to the Dexta ?

I second that.
I've had some really odd things happen with hoses, good ones are worthwhile.

Had seen the landy runing, but by the time I had finished harvest and then planted everything again the battery was flat so just decided to start stripping it down. I intend to do the job correctly particularly where the brakes are involved. No cutting corners. I want to be able to take my kids in it when its done so it's going to be SAFE! As for the tractor "eightinavee" its a Fordson Super Major not a dexter. The tractors next to it are John Deeres our prime movers. Going back to the diff ratio "Dr Pepper" can I count the teeth to get an idea of what we have?

Sorry,didnt have me specs on,always find it interesting whats hanging around in sheds and workshops ! The Fordson in our shed is 1941 Standard N with a Hesford winch.
Are the John Deere's as good as the old ones ? My neighbours had a pair of 2030's in about 1990 for a long time.Brilliant tools,no trouble,never leaked oil and always sounded nice and looked smart.They have New Hollands now,dont think they are quite as reliable....

The John Deere's are pretty good. The only problem is that they are basically computers these day's. What with engine management, fly by wire switches and GPS guidance systems, if it goes wrong the dealership and their laptops have to sort it out. Not like the Major where a few whitworth spanners would get you going again.

The way to find your diff ratio is to count the teeth(with the diff out of the axle obviously) what I do is mark one of the teeth on the pinion with tippex so that when you turn it you don't lose count, and the same on the crown wheel. Then divide the number of teeth on the crownwheel by the number of teeth on the pinion this will give you your ratio. A standard series diff should be 4.7 to 1 where as if it's had a V8 in it might have a rangie diff whitch will be a 3.5 to 1 as long as the front matches the back there'll be no probs

If you cant be bothered taking the diff out then put the axle back on that lift truck, clamp up one of the brake drums with a pair of mole grips or summat, then turn the input flange on the diff 50 times, while someone counts the rotation of one of the wheels, divide the rotation of the wheel by 100 to get the diff ratio, because one of the wheels is locked the other wheel rotates twice the number of turns hence 50 revs not 100.

think those early looking diffs are all 4.7's unless someone has changed them for diffs from a rover car, eg P3, P4, P5.

the 3.54's as found in RR, Disco, 90, 110 etc I think are all the flat bottom type.

Deereornothing said:

The John Deere's are pretty good. The only problem is that they are basically computers these day's. What with engine management, fly by wire switches and GPS guidance systems, if it goes wrong the dealership and their laptops have to sort it out. Not like the Major where a few whitworth spanners would get you going again.

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Hear what you say about the computers - local farmers son works for Class - he can make adjustments to combines etc from his laptop via the GSM network,totally remote.
Think the Fordson is all UNF/UNC fixings ?

Possibly meaningless info ... but I read somewhere that axle numbering was broadly in line with chassis numbering for the earlier Landies. If you put your axle ID into a VIN checker the "252" at the beginning says it's off a Series 2a 109 petrol.

TheSmiths88 said:

Possibly meaningless info ... but I read somewhere that axle numbering was broadly in line with chassis numbering for the earlier Landies. If you put your axle ID into a VIN checker the "252" at the beginning says it's off a Series 2a 109 petrol.

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Thats right,all that info is in the original Rover co workshop manuals - I was asked to check an engine number a few days ago,thats where I remember it from.

Good day today. Dismantled the axle and yes it has 47 teeth on the crown wheel which makes it a 4.7:1. Can't seem to find any info on the brakes in the Haynes manual. Did the 109 have a six cylinder petrol engine. My manual only covers 4 cylinder petrols.

Six cylinders only went into 109's but 109's weren't all fitted with 6 cylinders.

Ok then, if a 109 had a six cylinder engine would it have the twin cylinder brake drums?