285/75 (33's) hitting flexi arches after 2" lift

Can anyone assist with issue below at all please?

285/75/16 (33") MT Baha MTZ tyres fitted to new modulars with a -32mm offset rim for Disco 1. Truck lifted with full 2" heavy duty lift kit and 50mm arch extensions, usual door cut on 5dr and front arch trim etc.

Annoyingly rear tyres still scuff the front of the rear plastic arch extentions!! Fronts are fine. Both have extended bumps stops, but the rear is hitting the arch even on speed bump road testing.

Ideas please? Does the arch need a beating some more? Advised to lift rear another 1 or 2" with a packer or spacer, if so will this then need driveshaft replacing?

Ideas and experience of similar welcomed before the grinder comes back out! Thanks.

Probably the way you have fitted the flexi arches on the doors, remove em take a bit more off and refit, mine used to catch on my old disco but only on full articulation, never on speed bumps, they were close though to look at, only just get ur fingers in

get a fender

either extend the bumpstops further or fit a bodylift

Taxed said:

Probably the way you have fitted the flexi arches on the doors, remove em take a bit more off and refit, mine used to catch on my old disco but only on full articulation, never on speed bumps, they were close though to look at, only just get ur fingers in

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Indeedy I needed to refit my offside front extended arch (move it back a bit) due to it rubbing on 31" tyres OE springs

Have you fitted longer trailing arms?

If the car is lifted on stock arms the wheel will be close to the front, fitting longer arms alleviates this and gives more clearance.

That said, mine still catches at the back end of the inner arch to boot floor seam, this is with a 3" lift, longer bumpstops, britpart arms and 33" maxxis.

Body lift is the only way to get monster tyres on really, and it could even make a difference with 33s, but adjusting your arches or fitting longer arms will be fine for a mildly tyred car.

Mr Noisy said:

If the car is lifted on stock arms the wheel will be close to the front, fitting longer arms alleviates this and gives more clearance.

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Doing this will affect the pinion angle and cause prop shaft vibration. The pinion angle needs to be the same as the transfer case output.

I have never been one for attempting to use a spring lift to fit larger tyres. Have always used body lifts.

But the tyre should not be hitting the flare, so the most likely thing to fix it is to refit the flares.

p76rangie said:

Doing this will affect the pinion angle and cause prop shaft vibration. The pinion angle needs to be the same as the transfer case output.

I have never been one for attempting to use a spring lift to fit larger tyres. Have always used body lifts.

But the tyre should not be hitting the flare, so the most likely thing to fix it is to refit the flares.

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actually fitting the cranked trailing arms solves this problem, not causes it! Also a good idea to fit wide angle propshafts

either with suspension lifts or body lifts there is a limit to both before things get expensive, about 2 inches for suspension and about 2 on a body lift

V8_Disco said:

actually fitting the cranked trailing arms solves this problem, not causes it!

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He is talking rear, not front.
Without altering the A frame connections on the top, lengthening the bottom will tilt the diff.