200Tdi upgrade begins

Still didn't stop me getting coated in oil!

And nope we couldn't get the engine out. I've either missed a stud somewhere around the starter housing or it is superglued together on that side.
Can anyone supply a picture or diagram of where all the studs are located on a 2.5TD?

didnt i mention something about getting a good strong pry bar ready ?

i bet you have got all of the nuts of but it'll be glued together still

4 foot long wooden branch, hammers, tyre levers.....
I read the official Land Rover manual for upgrading the 2.5TD to a 200Tdi and it states remove the mounting rubbers to gain access to the studs and starter leads. That's my next step to see if there is a hidden stud.

Patman1200 said:

I read the official Land Rover manual for upgrading the 2.5TD to a 200Tdi and it states remove the mounting rubbers to gain access to the studs and starter leads. That's my next step to see if there is a hidden stud.

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Oh honestly, blokes! RTFM!

I have some fun piccies of him covered in oil, his hair went from mucky blonde to black, when Landrover fight back! hehehehe

MBG

MadBikerGoth said:

Oh honestly, blokes! RTFM!

I have some fun piccies of him covered in oil, his hair went from mucky blonde to black, when Landrover fight back! hehehehe

MBG

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Sorry about the carpet

Aww no probs, he cleaned it all up himself! Does the kids good to see him scrubbing on his knees!

Speaking of the Pat he is outside at the mo in the dwindling light trying to free the naughty engine off, so think good thoughts everyone!

MBGx

Thanks for the good thoughts it worked like a charm.
I did what it said int he O-fish-yall Land Rover 200Tdi engine upgrade manual and removed the engine rubbers and dropped the engine on to the chassis.
And look what I could then see!
That hidden stud. There are 2 studs between the starter and clutch slave. I managed to get to one by feel, but with the engine mounting rubbers in place you cannot get to the other higher stud.


With this last stud out I lifted the engine and out she plopped. Now is th etime to remove the starter motor wiring. One nut holding the power cables and a push on clip.







Some more photos for photo's sake.








Extremely easy access to grease up them nipples!

This is the list of things to do before the 200 goes in. If anyone has any more suggestions then please feel free. I am trying to compile a full list of steps for people to follow when doing this job.

Cut down Radiator/intercooler lower mounts by 10 to 28mm - Welding
Check new rad/intercooler fits.
Remove 2 small lugs either side of the radiator frame
Remove floor pans and tunnel?
Check gearbox rubber mounts
Tidy up engine bay wiring and axle breather pipes.
Jetwash engine bay, check for welding and waxoil.
Clean bellhousing and check clutch fork for wear.
Change Clutch slave cylinder
Change clutch release bearing
Change gearbox oil for Difflock stuff.
Change crank rear output shaft oil seal.
Transfer engine mounts to 200tdi using rear block mounts under alternator. Tighten nuts on mounts to block but do not fit rubbers.
Flush out radiator and intercooler
Flush out cabin heater
Check engine studs for ones to be removed.

good one Pat - wozz tha coilee spring fing - not sure that shud look loik
tha'


two suggestions

1) big box of plasters.
2) increase the size of ya swear box.

fit a HD fork - or weld a bit of plate behind the pivot point of your orginal

"Check engine studs for ones to be removed" - youd be better off drilling and tapping a couple of M10 holes to accept the studs

The Mad Hat Man said:

good one Pat - wozz tha coilee spring fing - not sure that shud look loik
tha'

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thats the heater control cable

Yup, didn't see it caught up by all the pipework, so when I pulled the engine so sprang the heater cable

Easily changed.
Why drill new holes for the studs rather than remove the studs altogether?

Patman1200 said:

Why drill new holes for the studs rather than remove the studs altogether?

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strengh - rigidity - and you get a beter seal

but most peeps dont

The Mad Hat Man said:

good one Pat
two suggestions

1) big box of plasters.
2) increase the size of ya swear box.

Click to expand...

After the tragic attempt on Friday night and all the oil on the drive from changing the engine oil in me mates 110 at the same time it wasn't plasters I needed. Swarfega shower!
Swear box has enough to buy a full silicon hose upgrade set for the intercooler!

Sean said:

strengh - rigidity - and you get a beter seal

but most peeps dont

Click to expand...

Can you remember how many holes have to be drilled or how many studs don't line up?

2

Patman1200 said:

Can you remember how many holes have to be drilled or how many studs don't line up?

Click to expand...

Ill bring my Tap set over on Friday then.

Ps
Well done with the removal, it were a right bugger that last Friday.

Why do the hols need tapping? Surely it is just a smooth hole for the stud to go through the bellhousing?

depends - some have clearance holes allready there in the bellhousing but no threaded holes in the block behind - tis normally the 2 lowest ones

dunno how to explain it in words

Last night I added a strenghtening bar accross the back of the clutch bar. And changed the clutch slave cylinder as I think it is the cause of the clutch fluid loss I have been having for ages. Damn easy to do with no engine in the way
I also put some copper slip into the fulcrum ball joint and the slave cylinder connecting rod ball joint. Not sure if this is good or bad but with the movement in the ball joints and no lube it can only make it wear much more quickly.