2005 defender rear spring mount rust

Hi all, I have a 2005 110 defender which is basically my pride and joy, I keep on top of the rust to some extent but whilst getting new tyres the other day when the wheels were off in the rear spring mounts behind the springs there is some small rust patches (not holed or anything to dry and flakey) I have some really good red oxide (recommended by a chap on here many years ago) and everything I have treated with this special red oxide since then the rust had never returned (yet), Is it a big job to remove the spring so I can make a proper job of it? Or am I better to get my family mechanic to have it in for the weekend and do it for me?

If you have the tools and 2 jacks, its not a particularly hard job to get the rear spring out ...

See here https://www.land-rover-blog.co.uk/how-to-change-the-rear-coil-springs-on-a-land-rover-defender/

As above, fairly easy job, l replaced both my rear springs in around an hour.

All I would add to this is get some good penatrating oil and keep putting it on the nuts and bolts you are going to be removing for a few days beforehand. This has helped me get off nuts and bolts that I felt sure would be seized. Clean the bolt well with a wire brush first then lots of the oil, leve a couple of days, oil, couple of days oil, etc. The longer you can do this for, the more chance of the fixing coming loose. And remember when undoing, if it's very stiff, undo/tighten/undo/tighten etc
If you have fixings available that are the same then it may be worth changing the old for new. Also try and check your spring retaining plates are in good order (one of mine had snapped on one side).

When you have the spring off it may be worth cleaning up the spring seat plate and where it fixes to the bracket on the axle. A good wire brush and also a small wire brush to get into those hard to reach places.

When I put mine back together I used copper grease on the fixings and Lanoguard grease where the plates were going to fit together - however I was changing the axle case because my bump stop plates/spring brackets/etc were rotting away - so you can imagine the paranoia making me use lots of anti corrosion stuff when I put it back together!

Another point to be aware of is that some people have broken the top shock mount when removing the nut on that. They are not stupidly expensive but a good reason to use the penatrating oil a few days before you do the job.

Good luck with the job, I am sure you will be fine. Just make sure the health and safety stuff is done and you support the truck well.

ATB

Mick

Thanks chaps, I’m going to buy a 2 tonne jack from screw fix and my dad has another I can use and a level driveway thankfully, maybe it’s a bit much for me but I’m willing to have a go at it, I really enjoy doing bits on my Land Rover and my family mechanic has always said have a go at it (on the easier tasks).. lightening what jacking method did you do please? Dr strange glove seeing that orange rust is definitely scary but I don’t think it’s anything structural just surface, it had new shocks and spring about 6 years ago and other than the paint looking a bit flakey they are still ok I think thanks for the tips

Discodevon said:

Thanks chaps, I’m going to buy a 2 tonne jack from screw fix and my dad has another I can use and a level driveway thankfully, maybe it’s a bit much for me but I’m willing to have a go at it, I really enjoy doing bits on my Land Rover and my family mechanic has always said have a go at it (on the easier tasks).. lightening what jacking method did you do please? Dr strange glove seeing that orange rust is definitely scary but I don’t think it’s anything structural just surface, it had new shocks and spring about 6 years ago and other than the paint looking a bit flakey they are still ok I think thanks for the tips

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I am sure your rust will be nothing like mine. My truck is a K reg (1993) so I would not expect anywhere near the amount of corrosion that mine had - but now is a good time to act and slow that corrosion down as much as possible.

I too am also new to all this spanner work, but I am also enjoying it. This is not my daily drive so it really doesn't matter if its off the road for a day or weeks. It has been quite daunting as I have never done stuff like this before, but I suppose that also makes it more rewarding. The forums have been great help so always ask - but remember for every question you get more than one answer and some are based on opinion/preferences so you have to go with what suits you and what you want from your vehicle.

Youtube is good but not every video is great. You also need to realise there are many different versions of the vehicles so sometimes finding a video to suit your task isn't always easy. I find Britannica Restorations and Trailer fitters toolbox to be good videos - they have both helped me in doing tasks I wouldn't have attempted otherwise due to my total inexperience in mechanicing. So far I have changed the rad, changed brake calipers front and rear (I had to cut one of the front ones in half to get it off), delt with many seized nuts and bolts, replaced my rear axle case, replaced my A frame joint (as I had my rear axle off), all my wheel bearings (though this is more because of the other work I was doing rather than the bearings being toast!), changed both front swivels, made new brake lines, changed my rear outriggers (still got the bulkhead ones to do), fabricated and repaired my front dumb irons and replaced my front bumper!

I am sure you will be fine doing the work, but do the health and safety bit. Make sure your truck is well supported, and when grinding wear safety glasses, a good dust mask and gloves. (On the gloves front, I use cut resistant gloves - currently £2 per pair from home bargains, as they are great for this kind of work- I wear a pair of nitrile ones under these as it saves having to wash your hands every time you are touching something clean!).

Good luck with your task.

l used the standard jack that comes with the Land Rover to raise it, with a trolley jack under the chassis for safety.

Normally l would just use a trolley jack but you can't jack it on the axle casing when you are removing the spring, because the vehicle will be supported by said spring.

You could jack it on the main chassis rail, but you risk raising both rear wheels off the ground which could be unstable.

Remember to chock a front wheel because when you lift one rear wheel off the ground, the vehicle can roll, even if the handbrake is on.

This is because the handbrake acts on the transmission and not the wheels like most vehicles.

Dr strange glove, mikdish and lightening thank you both so much, I’m looking forward to cracking on with this job, although a bit of a pain it will put my mind at ease because it’s not something I’ll need worry about for a few years after completing hopefully

Please use axle stands and not just a jack to support it.