2004 td4 clutch woes

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Matt BB

Member
Posts
86
Location
North Devon
Brief story, replaced the clutch on a td4 2004. 3 piece kit. End result was not by into gears so replaced the master, even worse.

Ok maybe it’s poorly bled so we bled it for pretty much the entire afternoon and still notchy into gears, decided to buy a reverse bleeder. Even worse

Decided obviously something has happened along the way so ripped it all out and couldn’t see anything so put it all back together this time with a new slave as we decided must be a dodgy slave. . .

All exactly the same, from a stand still 1st + reverse are really difficult to engage unless floor planted to the floor, also biting point it in the carpet.

I’m at a complete loss with this, it also is t the first time I’ve done one, up to about 5/6 and never ever has there been an issue.

Any ideas?
 
As bleeding again made it worse, that might suggest a bleeding issue, as you can get gears. What make of master and slave cylinder did you use? (although its not a slave I think its a concentric cylinder).
There has been modifications to enable the pedal to push further into the master cylinder.
Are you sure the friction plate is the right way round?
 
I’m certain it is but I just don’t know what to do about it, it’s had 3 masters. The original factory one, then a £40 eBay one, then a £60 euro parts one. Now it’s got the factory one back on because it was the best of a bad bunch.

clutch plate definitely right!
 
OK so I did post on this a while back. The design means that the push rod in the master doesn't expell all the air when pressed fully in.
You must have been lucky on the others.
The way I solved mine in the end was to bleed in the usual way, but remove the circlip and push rod from the master. Replace the circlip so that it doesn't fly apart, depress the plunger whilst bleeding all the way to the bottom of the cylinder, use a rod or thin screwdriver, then clamp up bleed valve and replace the push rod and fit the master.
Bit of a performance but it worked for me!! I had same symptoms. On the cheap master I cut and threaded the push rod and fitted a sleeve to increase the travel slightly. Added about 6mm if I remember correctly.
Frustrating when this sort of thing happens. You've done the hard work!!!
 
I will give that a go, I had heard that the master doesn’t push in far enough but what’s thrown me off is all I’ve ever done before was 500ml bottle of coke half full with fluid and a bit of tube and about 10 pushes of the peddle and jobs a good-en
 
Hi,

My advice, don't put any cheap master or slave cylinder on the freelander.
And always replace both slave and master when doing the clutch.

if you only replaced the slave and the master had very old fluid with rubber parts in it,
I think you are good for replacing the slave with the master.
 
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