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Well, I hope we get a result at the end of it.
+1. New fusebox has got to be £150 I'm guessing. Ouch!
2001 Range Rover P38 4.6 intermittant non start
- Thread starter Spoonofinsanity
- Start date
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+1. New fusebox has got to be £150 I'm guessing. Ouch!
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
Fuse boxes are one of the things and there ain't many, that Rimmers do cheaper than Island. Maybe Rimmers come bare and Island have the relays in.
Spoonofinsanity
Member
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- 67
New genuine fusebox was £142.30 so not that bad but didn't fix the problem but seems to have fixed a few other gremlins just intermittent non start with no logical reasoning for it.
Had a stint earlier where it wouldn't start for 10mins then suddenly just fired up and restarted 20 times in a row locking unlocking makes no difference. Starting to think its a poor contact on the ignition switch gonna have to take the cowlings off again and recheck - rechecked the codes again and nothing still.
Had a stint earlier where it wouldn't start for 10mins then suddenly just fired up and restarted 20 times in a row locking unlocking makes no difference. Starting to think its a poor contact on the ignition switch gonna have to take the cowlings off again and recheck - rechecked the codes again and nothing still.
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- Preston Lancs.
It's either not getting a spark or not getting fuel. Or both.
Spoonofinsanity
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i think both checked for spark with timing light when not starting and no rpm signal don't get any fuel smell or black smoke when it does start - pump still primes with ignition as i checked with a pressure gauge
tomcat59alan
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Did you use your old relays in your new fuse box?
Mine does this on occation, but never if it's sat for a good while. It only happens after a short drive, when the engine is only just warm but not properly up to temp. The starter will crank its nuts off without any sign of life from the engine. If I leave it for about 5 minutes and then crank for about 5 secs it will eventually fire and a bootfull of throttle helps it catch properly. I've an inkling it's a fueling issue - either too rich or too lean for the temperature. The behavior is quite predictable, but annoying nonetheless. I dread the day when this happens as I'm about to drive off a ferry....
I did post a thread on it but it didn't really go anywhere.
Henrik
I did post a thread on it but it didn't really go anywhere.
Henrik
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
That would indicate ECU temp sensor on it's way home.
OK. Not to hijack the thread, but which one is the ECU temp sensor? There's a black one and a blue one on mine, but which is which?
Henrik
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Model year and engine would help!
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Could be the stepper motor (idle air control valve) out of calibration or range.....
- Posts
- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
Think it's the black one. Disconnect the blue one a see if you lose the temp gauge.
Spoonofinsanity
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- 67
Solution to this P38's problems was a knackered Crank sensor and a corroded wire in the white terminal blocks in n/s footwell. Car eventually failed altogether so scoped crank sensor with no output. Wiring in the footwell was one of the centre pins in a connector had corroded away completely so cut wires either side soldered in some extra wire and connectors seperate to main block job done.
biketeacherdave
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Well done that man nice to have a posted fix
