2001 Range Rover P38 4.6 intermittant non start

Pulling my hair out with this range rover as per the title intermittant non start.
Key fobs do not work on plip but car has always started and unlocked by key in lock.
All doors unlock with key in door and led flashs nicely on remote. Can shut windows etc with key in lock aswell. No warning mesages on the dash when not starting and cranks away like mad. If you take the key in and out of the ignition and replace then try cranking by about the 10th time it will start then run all day. Turn the ignition off after non start and message says key in ignition so its recognising a key is there. Battery is a 3 month old bosch with plenty of juice.
Diagnostics shows code 148 Becm serial link time out - Intermittant can't remember the specific p code and it won't pop up again on T4 handheld i've been using since i deleted codes after maf replacement due to underfuelling. The most irritating thing is that the T4 will only let me access engine, air susp, airbags, and gearbox won't let me in to security or becm
I'm pretty sure it can't be lost sync as it does start withing 10 mins.
I can't get the fob i have to sync and unlock via flip for love nor money so wondering if something has been deactivated using rovacom or something?
Any input greatly appreciated

Spoonofinsanity said:

Pulling my hair out with this range rover as per the title intermittant non start.
Key fobs do not work on plip but car has always started and unlocked by key in lock.
All doors unlock with key in door and led flashs nicely on remote. Can shut windows etc with key in lock aswell. No warning mesages on the dash when not starting and cranks away like mad. If you take the key in and out of the ignition and replace then try cranking by about the 10th time it will start then run all day. Turn the ignition off after non start and message says key in ignition so its recognising a key is there. Battery is a 3 month old bosch with plenty of juice.
Diagnostics shows code 148 Becm serial link time out - Intermittant can't remember the specific p code and it won't pop up again on T4 handheld i've been using since i deleted codes after maf replacement due to underfuelling. The most irritating thing is that the T4 will only let me access engine, air susp, airbags, and gearbox won't let me in to security or becm
I'm pretty sure it can't be lost sync as it does start withing 10 mins.
I can't get the fob i have to sync and unlock via flip for love nor money so wondering if something has been deactivated using rovacom or something?
Any input greatly appreciated

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Check the ignition control relay.

cheers wammer i was fiddling about with the cowlings off unplugged the reed coil multiplug for the ignition key and its started every time since might just be coincidence but will see if it plays up after my lunch. Thanks

Spoonofinsanity said:

cheers wammer i was fiddling about with the cowlings off unplugged the reed coil multiplug for the ignition key and its started every time since might just be coincidence but will see if it plays up after my lunch. Thanks

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Ok, but someone on here had exactly the same problem and after spending lots of cash on it turn out to be a £5.00 relay.

It was a coincidence
Started spot on for about 50 attempts left it alone locked for a while and then took three attempts to start again.
Tried the other key which does not seem to have an operational led although starts the car just aswell as the key i had been playing with.
Checked the relay all ok - swapped with another for piece of mind and it was no different.

Spoonofinsanity said:

It was a coincidence
Started spot on for about 50 attempts left it alone locked for a while and then took three attempts to start again.
Tried the other key which does not seem to have an operational led although starts the car just aswell as the key i had been playing with.
Checked the relay all ok - swapped with another for piece of mind and it was no different.

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Fuse box ?

See fuse box pop up a lot when searching about this fault what exactly is it that goes wrong is it corrosion or pcb failure? This is a proper chelsea tractor don't think its ever been off road. Spent the last few years in a garage dry stored not being used. Cheers for the input people

Spoonofinsanity said:

See fuse box pop up a lot when searching about this fault what exactly is it that goes wrong is it corrosion or pcb failure? This is a proper chelsea tractor don't think its ever been off road. Spent the last few years in a garage dry stored not being used. Cheers for the input people

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Usually dry joints/ burnt contacts, think it has been covered on here. It is 14 years old when all said and done. If you do get another make sure it's the correct one, year, fuel, engine.

so in theory stripdown cleaning and resoldering of the fusebox would be possible to repair if that is the issue. The relay wammers was talking about is the one marked with a key on the lid of the fuse box right. Just making sure i was fiddling the correct one.

Spoonofinsanity said:

so in theory stripdown cleaning and resoldering of the fusebox would be possible to repair if that is the issue. The relay wammers was talking about is the one marked with a key on the lid of the fuse box right. Just making sure i was fiddling the correct one.

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Don't know if it's the same on your model, things changed a couple of times fuse box wise after 1999. But normally green relay third in from left on second row down looking over wing. Relay 15.

can't remember what colour it was not near it now came home in my van instead but will check again tomorrow think it was the third one in tho next to an ac relay.

Spoonofinsanity said:

can't remember what colour it was not near it now came home in my van instead but will check again tomorrow think it was the third one in tho next to an ac relay.

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This may not be your model but gives an idea. http://www.p38rangerover.com/index.php/fuses-and-relays/engine-bay-fuse-box.html Just float cursor over things.

looks similar second row from top 3 in i checked for burnt contacts and then swapped with relay on the left of it. Found a good thread on range rovers.net about fuse boxes and the ways in which they fail currently having a good read through that. Not sure if i am aloud to link to another forum but it makes for good reading.
thanks wa

Well after reading the thread on fuse box repairs the fuse box will be getting disassembled tomorrow to get a good check over. Worth ruling out if nothing else.
thanks for the help people will update tomorrow evening.

Spoonofinsanity said:

Well after reading the thread on fuse box repairs the fuse box will be getting disassembled tomorrow to get a good check over. Worth ruling out if nothing else.
thanks for the help people will update tomorrow evening.

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Disconnect battery before playing with fuse box. But i suppose you know that.

yeh will do wammers not a total electrical retard lol first experience of p38 electrical gremlins is all. Hopefully will have this sorted soon thanks for your help

Look at my fuse box thread simple to fix if you can solder.
do not i repeat do not try to unsolder the bridgeing links between the pcbs just cut them

well there was definately some signs of corrosion and water ingress on the pcb and solder joints of the fuse board the ribbon that joins the two pcb's was beginning to fall apart so we have ordered up a genuine Land rover fuse box for Tuesday will have to see how it goes when that is fitted. Got to refit the ignition switch pickup aswell

decided to just buy a new one as can't afford the time off the road at the moment cheers @biketeacherdave

Spoonofinsanity said:

decided to just buy a new one as can't afford the time off the road at the moment cheers @biketeacherdave

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Well, I hope we get a result at the end of it.