200 tdi cut out and won't start

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T

toms3

Active Member
Posts
375
Location
west yorkshire
I was driving along slowly down a dirt track and my engine cut out. Not it just turns over and won't start - it's a 200 tdi disco engine in a 90.

Iv cracked an injector and turned it over and now no fuel is coming out so I'm guessing the stop solonoid?

Iv tried putting 12 volts to it and I can't hear a click - should I be able to?

Is there anyway of removing the solonoid stop pin and spring to get me going again and stop engine by stalling?

Any advice would be great iv got a mate on the way with his toolbox as I type

Cheers!

Tom.
 
Hope I'm not too late.

Sounds like you might be right. I haven't had one in my hands, but you can usually either take them apart properly, or at least rip the pin out knowing that you need a new one anyway.
 
Sorted it! I tried putting 12v to it and I couldent hear a click so I took the stop solonoid off (verry tight!) had to tap it round with a screwdriver and spanner and pulled the spring and pin out. Put it back together and she is running again now. I'll get a solonoid ordered and stall it in gear for time been.

Cheers

Atb tom.
 
Just an update incase anyone searches this problem - if you take the stop solonoid pin out to get by make sure you unplug the little white spade plug from the back of the ignition switch.

I am waiting for the part to arrive so had to use my 90 to get to work and on the way home my landrover filled with smoke from burning the stop solonoid wire out! Bit of a brown trouser moment. I'll get it sorted but just updating as a warning to others!
 
toms3 said:
Just an update incase anyone searches this problem - if you take the stop solonoid pin out to get by make sure you unplug the little white spade plug from the back of the ignition switch.

I am waiting for the part to arrive so had to use my 90 to get to work and on the way home my landrover filled with smoke from burning the stop solonoid wire out! Bit of a brown trouser moment. I'll get it sorted but just updating as a warning to others!
Click to expand...

just cover the spade you pulled from the stop solenoid, no need to muck with the white ignition wire as i'm *fairly* sure that'll be used for other ign live systems.

sounds like you just pulled the wire stop side and it then touched the body and earthed/shorted out.
 
Last edited:
Out of interest how long did it take and how hard was it to change the stop solenoid?

I've the exact spec that you have (disco 200tdi in a 90) and have had the same problem.

My motor runs great when starting cold and drives for as long as you want it to up until you park up and switch the engine off. Then when you start it up again you have 30 minutes of pain as the engine keeps dying when going to tickover - gear changes, braking, anything that involves not applying revs. It starts again just fine but then you have the same problem on repeat until it goes away after about 30 mins.

Stop Solenoid seemed like an easy part to replace (and cheap) so I thought I'd do that and see if it made any difference - the main reason being that it's the engine that cuts out and not having any fuel going to it seemed like a logical place to start.

...already done the fuel lift pump.
 
DaninLids said:
Out of interest how long did it take and how hard was it to change the stop solenoid?

I've the exact spec that you have (disco 200tdi in a 90) and have had the same problem.

My motor runs great when starting cold and drives for as long as you want it to up until you park up and switch the engine off. Then when you start it up again you have 30 minutes of pain as the engine keeps dying when going to tickover - gear changes, braking, anything that involves not applying revs. It starts again just fine but then you have the same problem on repeat until it goes away after about 30 mins.

Stop Solenoid seemed like an easy part to replace (and cheap) so I thought I'd do that and see if it made any difference - the main reason being that it's the engine that cuts out and not having any fuel going to it seemed like a logical place to start.

...already done the fuel lift pump.
Click to expand...

To change the stop solenoid I guess about 20 mins going steady. I cut a 24mm spanner down and it made it an easy job as it's tight with a full size spanner!
 
trax said:
just cover the spade you pulled from the stop solenoid, no need to muck with the white ignition wire as i'm *fairly* sure that'll be used for other ign live systems.

sounds like you just pulled the wire stop side and it then touched the body and earthed/shorted out.
Click to expand...

Ahh that explained why it was ok for a few days then suddenly did it as it earthed on some metal under the bonnet - thinking about it did happen just after a speed bump.

The white wire is now frazzled! It runs still but does that white wire do anything else a swell as supply power to stop solonoid?

Wish I knew bout this before!

Cheers

Tom.
 
i don't have a diagram here. i would have thought the fuel solenoid would have been fused mind.
 
The white splits with one part going to the cut-off, and the other on towards the ignition light resistor, alternator and supplies power to all the warning light circuits, so you definitely want to keep it connected at the switch for now, just cut off the burned bit and insulate the end.

It's not fused Trax.

Ideally you'd replace the whole length of it, but a good crimp connection with a piece of white wire is a decent repair.
 
boguing said:
The white splits with one part going to the cut-off, and the other on towards the ignition light resistor, alternator and supplies power to all the warning light circuits, so you definitely want to keep it connected at the switch for now, just cut off the burned bit and insulate the end.

It's not fused Trax.

Ideally you'd replace the whole length of it, but a good crimp connection with a piece of white wire is a decent repair.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that - the battery light has come on since then so that explains that.

Problem is that the white wire coating has melted off until it goes out of sight - if I crimp a new wire on up to that point should this be ok?

Thanks again.
 
No, that won't do I'm afraid. When a wire carries more current than it should, the whole length becomes uniformly hot. Where the wire is exposed to free air it may be cooled enough not to damage the insulation, so it's probably even worse between the bulkhead and the ignition switch. You need to change it because overheated insulation will probably fail and cause more problems, or even a fire. It's best to follow it all the way through, because it may have damaged other wires where it was tightly wrapped into the loom.
 
boguing said:
No, that won't do I'm afraid. When a wire carries more current than it should, the whole length becomes uniformly hot. Where the wire is exposed to free air it may be cooled enough not to damage the insulation, so it's probably even worse between the bulkhead and the ignition switch. You need to change it because overheated insulation will probably fail and cause more problems, or even a fire. It's best to follow it all the way through, because it may have damaged other wires where it was tightly wrapped into the loom.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a job for the weekend! Oh dear I'll do it properly and follow it back.

I can see the white wire has frazzled too where it exits the loom and goes into a plug but looks ok after that. Is if going to be a big job?
 
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