1999 P38 immobiliser/BeCM

Hi,

This is a friends car, so I don't know much about Range Rovers (although I did download the EAS tool, make up a lead and re-set his EAS for him a few months ago - but that's the limit of my RR experience).

It's a 1999 4.0, I believe it's the GEMS engine. He came back to the car after a couple of days, to find the hazards on (but not flashing) and the battery very low, almost flat. He recharged the battery, but now it won't start. The digital display doesn't say 'engine immobilised' (although it says plenty of other things), and I'm afraid I can't remember if the 'Check Engine' light is on, but I don't think it is. I went out this evening to check the battery drain, but unfortunately took my mini-multimeter which I'd forgot doesn't have an ammeter function!

I've searched the forum, and looked at the info on rangerovers.net. The reason behind the battery discharging is one thing, but as the car's parked on his neighbour's drive, getting it moved is number one priority! I'm thinking it may be the problem where the BeCM and ECU have lost sync, and need to be re-synced with a 'Sync-Mate'.

So, firstly, is my diagnosis anything like, or have I jumped to conclusions?

Secondly, is there anyone in or around Mid-Sussex with a Sync-Mate who might be willing to loan/hire it out, or come out and re-sync the BeCM for us (with suitable recompense)?

Mid-Sussex or West Sussex your location seems to have changed, helps if you state a less general location.

zzr1200 said:

Mid-Sussex or West Sussex your location seems to have changed, helps if you state a less general location.

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Mid Sussex is an area in West Sussex, covering East Grinstead, Haywards Heath and Burgess Hill (it's actually the name of the local District Council area). More specifically, the car's near Haywards Heath.

Any comments on the Range Rover problem?

ianrobbo said:

Any comments on the Range Rover problem?

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It could well of lost its sync, now you have 6 options:

1. Wait for someone with the a sync-mate to ask the right questions (gems or thor) and offer to come to you.

2. I believe "Rick the Pick" lives fairly close to your location on the south coast, you could try a PM'ing him and ask if he is willing to come out to the vehicle (how much he would charge I have no idea).

3. I could come down but I live in Essex further away than Rick the Pick.

4. You can wait for more answers/offers.

5. Purchase a sync-mate which is about 120.00 (probably not that much more than "getting someone out") and if it loses sync again you can re-sync it yourself, but if you take this route make sure you purchase the correct sync-mate there are 3 types (you've already stated, you think its a Gems system).

6. Get a group of friends together and push it on to your mates drive.



I didn't mean to upset you about your location, but its a bit like stating "South Yorkshire" as a location, a bit non-descriptive if you don't know the area the name of a town is much more helpful.

zzr1200 said:

It could well of lost its sync, now you have 6 options:

1. Wait for someone with the a sync-mate to ask the right questions (gems or thor) and offer to come to you.

2. I believe "Rick the Pick" lives fairly close to your location on the south coast, you could try a PM'ing him and ask if he is willing to come out to the vehicle (how much he would charge I have no idea).

3. I could come down but I live in Essex further away than Rick the Pick.

4. You can wait for more answers/offers.

5. Purchase a sync-mate which is about 120.00 (probably not that much more than "getting someone out") and if it loses sync again you can re-sync it yourself, but if you take this route make sure you purchase the correct sync-mate there are 3 types (you've already stated, you think its a Gems system).

6. Get a group of friends together and push it on to your mates drive.

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Thanks for the suggestions, much appreciated.

1. Yes, I'll see if anyone else chips in.
2. I've seen 'Rick the Pick' on similar threads when I searched, I'll maybe drop him a PM. He does seem to know his stuff on this subject.
3. Thanks for the offer, genuinely appreciated, but it's a lot to ask of you. I'll see if I can get it done a little more locally.
4. Same as 1.
5. If it was my car, I'd buy one. As it's a friend, and I'm just helping him out, I'm not going to buy one, and if I suggest to him it's necessary to buy one, I just nned to feel convinced in my own mind first.
6. Maybe, but it still won't get the engine started!

He's away now for a few days, left the key with me. I'll pop over and have another look at it soon.

Any suggestions as to what else to check? I'll take a decent multimeter with me this time, and measure the battery drain. I'll see if the CEL is on.

Anyhing else?

If it has the bunch of bananas inlet manifold its a thor otherwise its a gems. I have a synchmate for thor in east sussex.

discomalc said:

If it has the bunch of bananas inlet manifold its a thor otherwise its a gems. I have a synchmate for thor in east sussex.

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Definitely a GEMS. Has the rectangular bit on the top of the throttle body/intake with '4.0' marked on it - top picture in this link; http://www.blackbox-solutions.com/Basic-Bits/P38engines.html

Thanks for the input though.

Short of finding someone with a Gems Synchmate, Rick (Callrova) is your nearest bet I would think.

Disconnect the battery and make sure it is fully charged before you try anything. The
P38 doesn't like a low battery.

Datatek said:

Disconnect the battery and make sure it is fully charged before you try anything. The
P38 doesn't like a low battery.

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Yes, he's done that, and I also had the jump leads on from another car at one point just to make sure. No difference.

ianrobbo said:

Yes, he's done that, and I also had the jump leads on from another car at one point just to make sure. No difference.

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Be carefull where you put the jump leads or you may blow an ecu. Have you actually checked the battery voltage on load?

Datatek said:

Be carefull where you put the jump leads or you may blow an ecu. Have you actually checked the battery voltage on load?

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Yes, just over 12v with ignition on.

ianrobbo said:

Yes, just over 12v with ignition on.

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What is just over 12 volts? If your meter is accurate, I would suggest the battery is shot If it's just been charged and you have less than 12.5 to 12.8 volts with the ignition on.

Datatek said:

What is just over 12 volts? If your meter is accurate, I would suggest the battery is shot If it's just been charged and you have less than 12.5 to 12.8 volts with the ignition on.

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It was yesterday I checked it, but I think it was 12.67v (or something in that area). It was definitely more than 12.5v.

I'm pretty sure the battery's good.

Just to close this one off, I got Richard at Callrova to come out and put his Rovacom on it, sorted it out inside 10 mins, all good now.

Extremely helpful and friendly guy, even came out on a Sunday to do it.

Fix ????????????????????????????????????

Irishrover said:

Fix ????????????????????????????????????

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I dunno - Richard could tell you. He connected his Rovacam, re-set some stuff, and it was fixed.

probably a resynch and clear the keyfob buffer memory.

It's just that some members read about a problem, put their suggestions forward and then get a "It's fixed" post which leaves them in the dark. Sharing knowledge is the main part of forum basics.

Hi There!
Just new to the forum and with problems
P38 2001 battery flat for some unexplained reason, recharge battery and fitted to the car. key code lock out message. wait for some time try to enter the code several times no luck.
alarm is flashing. try various methods find on the internet forums still no luck.
please note that when i put the key in the ignition and turning it to position 2 the engine check message is not there.
Disconnect battery and reconnect several times and try several new combination still no luck. when i try to put the eka code there is no flashing of any lights.
any help will be very appreciated.

Location??????