1998 P38 2.5 TD S.O.S!!

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Mrs Slocombe

Member
Posts
11
Hello all, after 10 years 'Land Rover free' I succumbed and bought a 1998 P38 TD which was for sale with a recent CT (French MOT) and seemed to be in reasonable condition. The previous owner was a retired garage owner who had owned the car for 8 years. He'd put it on coil springs and appears to have made certain other modifications, notably the removal of certain fuses. He had problems starting it, which he put down to a problem with the key ( both keys have seen better days and are held together with selotape) and I noted that after he fiddled about with the key, the car started and seemed to run ok, although I thought the tick over speed was a little high.

Test drive was ok so with a limited budget I decided to take a chance, hoping that a replacement key or battery might solve the problem. In short and after a very frustrating 3 weeks of 'key twiddling' to get it started, delays leaving shops and friends houses "It's ok, she'll start in a minute!!" not to mention having to put 30 quids worth of diesel in whilst leaving the engine running :eek:, she now won't start at all.

Yesterday I bought and fitted a new battery as the old one was dead. With the key in the ignition, the dash lit up normally and I looked forward (!) to more key twiddling that might at least result in movement. Sadly nothing, she won't turn over and I am tearing my hair out as it's my only form of transport and facilities are not within walking distance.

I know from past experience that my chances of finding someone here who can diagnose the problem are very slim. When I moved here 15yrs ago, I brought my much loved P38 4.0 SE (with rare manual gearbox) with me. It broke my heart to have to sell her after she developed what turned out to be a relatively simple problem. Land Rover Avignon also made it clear at the time that that they weren't interested as she was too old and I doubt that their policy has changed.

I would be so grateful if anyone can help, or has an idea as to what the source of the problem might be? I tried to start her again this morning and took a video which I have attached along with pics of the fuseboxes etc. Apologies for the video quality and the muttering, which I think I managed to keep clean! https://1drv.ms/v/s!Aq6B1Stiw9RCimlpmbje86uqfHLb?e=Fe1UsO

Many thanks, Vicky.
 

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Where are you located? I'm in France and have diagnostics, @Mark Piercy is also in France and has diagnostics. The FOB may have lost sync, key in drivers door lock, turn to lock and press the lock button, then turn to unlock and press the unlock button.
It's always a big risk to buy a P38 or any Range Rover with faults. Hope you can get it sorted.
 
Hi Vicky, many folks on here are experts on the P38TD and will be only too pleased to help you.
All I can suggest is that your keys are no longer in Synch with the cars anti-theft measures.
If it won't turn over it usually means the message "Engine Immobilised" is appearing on the dash in the message centre (if it isn't broken). Entering the EKA should fix it (if the drivers doorlock micro-switches aren't fubar'd.
Do you have the EKA code?
 
Where are you located? I'm in France and have diagnostics, @Mark Piercy is also in France and has diagnostics. The FOB may have lost sync, key in drivers door lock, turn to lock and press the lock button, then turn to unlock and press the unlock button.
It's always a big risk to buy a P38 or any Range Rover with faults. Hope you can get it sorted.
Thanks so much for the reply -Unfortunately I'm south east, near Avignon! Yep it was a risk and I hummed and hawed before phoning, but the recent CT and overall condition of the vehicle swayed me. All that glitters eh!
 
Hi Vicky, many folks on here are experts on the P38TD and will be only too pleased to help you.
All I can suggest is that your keys are no longer in Synch with the cars anti-theft measures.
If it won't turn over it usually means the message "Engine Immobilised" is appearing on the dash in the message centre (if it isn't broken). Entering the EKA should fix it (if the drivers doorlock micro-switches aren't fubar'd.
Do you have the EKA code?
Thanks so much for the reply Dan, yes I have the EKA code and I did give it a go but without success. I'll try again as I can't be sure I got it right. Tbh I'm not sure what is working and what is not due to the absence of some fuses. The odometer does not display, but the kilometrage does correspond with all the documentation and the recent CT so I'm hoping it's not been 3 times round the world and back! It actually ran very well each time I was able to drive it and the only thing the previous owner said it needed was an oil and filter change, which I had booked in for Tuesday but will now have to cancel, miracles not withstanding.....
 
Thanks so much for the reply Dan, yes I have the EKA code and I did give it a go but without success. I'll try again as I can't be sure I got it right. Tbh I'm not sure what is working and what is not due to the absence of some fuses. The odometer does not display, but the kilometrage does correspond with all the documentation and the recent CT so I'm hoping it's not been 3 times round the world and back! It actually ran very well each time I was able to drive it and the only thing the previous owner said it needed was an oil and filter change, which I had booked in for Tuesday but will now have to cancel, miracles not withstanding.....
Please find attached my guide on doing EKA properly. Clockwise & Anti-Clockwise may be reversed on a LHD car though.
So turn in the direction of LOCK & UNLOCK as it says.
 

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Please find attached my guide on doing EKA properly. Clockwise & Anti-Clockwise may be reversed on a LHD car though.
So turn in the direction of LOCK & UNLOCK as it says.
Many thanks for the PDF, armed with that I'll give it another try once it stops raining...
 
No expert me , but I do know you can send the becm under the seat and the engine ecu, and keys, both easy to remove, off to specialists and they'll come back all sorted with eka removed, I think.?
A friend sent all his off to classic rides in North Wales and requested a new key too as he only had one and it wasn't particularly expensive.
Plug and play with no issues. His old becm was fried but cr had spare ones of them too.
 
No expert me , but I do know you can send the becm under the seat and the engine ecu, and keys, both easy to remove, off to specialists and they'll come back all sorted with eka removed, I think.?
A friend sent all his off to classic rides in North Wales and requested a new key too as he only had one and it wasn't particularly expensive.
Plug and play with no issues. His old becm was fried but cr had spare ones of them too.
Anyone with a Nanocom or Faultmate can turn off the EKA function, the immobiliser should also be turned off which stops a multitude of problems.
 
No expert me , but I do know you can send the becm under the seat and the engine ecu, and keys, both easy to remove, off to specialists and they'll come back all sorted with eka removed, I think.?
A friend sent all his off to classic rides in North Wales and requested a new key too as he only had one and it wasn't particularly expensive.
No expert me , but I do know you can send the becm under the seat and the engine ecu, and keys, both easy to remove, off to specialists and they'll come back all sorted with eka removed, I think.?
A friend sent all his off to classic rides in North Wales and requested a new key too as he only had one and it wasn't particularly expensive.
Plug and play with no issues. His old becm was fried but cr had spare ones of them too.
Thanks Flossie, Both keys are in very poor condition and I had thought about replacing them if possible, but as for the rest, I wonder if @Datatek suggestion would be easier for me providing I could actually find someone here with a Nanocom or Faultmate.....
 
As for key fobs, I got my last one from ebay for about 12€ a bit of a faf as the original is seemingly glued together. A bit of persuasive man handling and a touch of super glue on the new one along with the original blade and voilà c'est fait 😀
 
As for key fobs, I got my last one from ebay for about 12€ a bit of a faf as the original is seemingly glued together. A bit of persuasive man handling and a touch of super glue on the new one along with the original blade and voilà c'est fait 😀
That's very reasonable - Is that Ebay FR or UK? Both of mine have been 'over fiddled' and when I took the sellotape off to try and replace the battery ( also impossible as the battery cover looks like someone has been eating it and I can't get any purchase in order to turn and release it) the two little pressure pads to lock and unlock came off with it and were stuck to the sellotape......... Great example of 'Systeme D' 😅
 
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